Cleaning aquarium glass with a homemade blade. We independently remove limescale from the walls of the aquarium and glass

Many people keep fish in an aquarium at home. It's interesting to watch them. In order for the fish to feel good and the owners to enjoy their appearance, it is necessary to regularly clean the aquarium. At first glance, this task does not look difficult, but there are many nuances of proper care.

Necessity

Several factors indicate that it is time to clean your aquarium. For this purpose, the water quality (nitrates, ammonia) is tested. If the readings exceed the norm, it’s time to change the water. When the fish lift up a cloud of dirt as they move, it’s time to wash the soil. The walls of the aquarium are covered with a green coating - this is a signal for washing the glass. Hence the conclusion: cleaning is carried out according to external factors and tests.

Periodicity

It is impossible to give an unambiguous question about the frequency of cleaning. If you compare large and small aquariums, you often have to clean in smaller containers. Again, it's worth considering the population. If there is a high population density in a large container, and only 3 fish swim in a small one, then cleaning will be done more often in larger containers. From here we can only talk about averaged data:

1. Every day you should feed the fish and inspect the equipment and check the temperature.
2. Planned cleaning to change water should be carried out once every 7-14 days.
3. Clean glass once a week, even if they seem clean.
4. Filter maintenance once a month.
5. Cleaning the soil, decorations, stones once every 7 days.
6. Regularly test water for nitrates, ammonia, phosphorus, and trim vegetation.

Replenish evaporation fluid every 3-4 days.

Cleaning equipment

Every aquarist has a tool that they use for cleaning. Conventionally, it is divided into a standard and individually specific set.

The first includes the necessary things: sponges, buckets, scrapers, hoses, siphons.

The second set includes additional tools: tweezers, acidity indicator, feeders, aquarium tests.

Water

You can't just draw liquid from the tap. It must meet certain parameters at which the fish will feel comfortable.

The indicator is used to check the pH acidity, the norm is considered to be 7. Soda is used to increase it, and peat is used to decrease it.

The smell of chlorine is eliminated. The water is left to stand for 3 days. If this does not help, use a dechlorinating agent.

For freshwater fish It is undesirable to use distilled liquid, since it is considered “dead” water.

Glass scraper

To avoid putting your hand in while cleaning the glass inside the aquarium, it is convenient to use magnetic scrapers.

Algae deposits can be cleaned with a scraper that has a metal blade. You just have to be extremely careful not to snag the silicone sealant (wall connector) or scratch the acrylic.

If you wash your glass regularly, at least once every 7 days, an ordinary kitchen sponge will do. You just need to use a new copy, without any leftover food or fat.

Big bucket

When cleaning sand, pebbles, water and debris are drained. Therefore, you need to have a large bucket for collection.

You will also need a large bucket to settle the water. It is advisable to choose a neutral material - inert plastic, enamel. All other materials: zinc, aluminum, copper exclude. From the reaction of elements are formed harmful substances, causing imbalance and death of aquatic organisms.

Water pump

Among the tools there should be a pump. You can use a siphon-type pumping device.

The pump cannot be used on batteries.

Components for replacing the filter

Be prepared for the fact that you will need to replace some filter elements. Therefore there should be:

• spare sponges;
• coal packs;
• rings;
• balloons;
• rotary head;
• cartridges.

Vinegar

A special aquarium glass cleaner will help remove limescale from the glass, but if you don’t have it on hand, use wine vinegar. Take a glass of water, add a tablespoon of vinegar. Treat the glass with the solution. The acid does not leave streaks and quickly removes plaque.

Blade

Some scrapers have a blade. The material can be plastic, metal. When working with scrapers, you need to be careful, for example, acrylic aquariums are easily scratched.

Some models of scrapers have a combined filling. The blade is replaced with a sponge and vice versa.

Other necessary things

When cleaning the aquarium you will need no less necessary things:

• nets of different sizes;
• long tweezers for planting plants and lifting various parts from the bottom;
• siphon;
• feeders;
• fastening material – suction cups;
• measuring container for liquid;
• syringe, long needle for processing algae.

The necessary substitutes should be in stock: thermometer, heater, compressor. In case of failure of the main elements.

Rules for surface cleaning of an aquarium

When carrying out routine or superficial cleaning of the aquarium, adhere to some rules and procedures:

• disconnect electrical appliances from the network. Leave external filters;
• clean plaque from glass with a scraper or sponge;
• If the decorations are covered with plaque, take them out and rinse with hot water. Use any detergent, but rinse thoroughly;
• trim living plants, do weeding;
• siphon the soil as necessary;
• drain the water (if you are cleaning the bottom, this will be done automatically);
• rinse the filter as necessary;
• fill with clean water.

After the water has settled, brush over the decorations and shake off the residue.

Rules for deep cleaning of an aquarium

Deep cleaning involves completely restarting the aquarium. Such actions are caused by the death of fish, plant disease, the structure has leaked, or the design is boring.

The algorithm of work is the same as during scheduled cleaning. The only differences are total disinfection.

Prepare a house for the fish. If aquarium water is suitable, dial. During an epidemic, this should not be done; prepare settled water for several days and heat it before settling.

Take out the plants. It is important not to damage the root system. If disease occurs, plant new samples. If they are dear to you, treat them with penicillin. Combine 10 liters of water, 50 mg of the drug. The course of treatment is seven days. Maintain the temperature at 25 degrees.

Then, pull out the soil. Perform heat treatment.

Prepare a salty solution for decoration.

Leave 50% of the water from the aquarium for a quick restart, if the cause is not an infection, a virus.

Start cleaning the aquarium.

Use disinfectants.

In case of mycobacteriosis, fill the container washing powder at the rate of 400 g of mixture, per 60 liters of water. The inventory is all boiling.

Dry the aquarium for several days, at least a day.

Fill with water to check for leaks, leave for 2 hours, if everything is fine, drain the liquid, start restarting.

Carry out the steps in reverse order.

Cleaning the walls

Before removing the walls of the aquarium, arm yourself with the necessary scraper. Avoid using used kitchen sponges.

Proceed carefully, near the bottom. Sand rising from the bottom will scratch the glass.

Do not remove algae washed off the walls. The fish will eat some of it; you will remove the rest when changing the liquid.

Algae processing

Treat algae with special preparations, for example, Easy Clean, Algaecide or Sidex.

Easy Clean – pour the product into the aquarium. It is relevant without living vegetation.

Algaecide or sidex – kills algae and stimulates plant growth. For 50 liters of liquid, add 2 mg of the drug.

Treat the affected surfaces with a syringe. Dead algae will be eaten by algae eaters.

Cleaning gravel

The soil is covered with excrement and food debris. Use a siphon or hose to stir the surface; the impurities will rise up the tube.

When deep cleaning, the gravel is pulled out and washed with detergent.

Cleaning decorative elements

Artificial plants and decorative elements are washed inside and outside the aquarium. In the first option, clean off deposits with a brush. If this does not help, remove the decorations and process them in the following ways:

• add boiling water and lower the decorative elements, keep for 10-15 minutes. Heat will help get rid of algae;
• bleach. Combine water and bleach in a ratio of 9:1. Lower the decorations, hold for 10 minutes. Wash thoroughly under running water. Not all elements can be cleaned in this way, for example, artificial driftwood, corals;
• iodized salt + lemon. Prepare a paste of two ingredients. Apply the mixture with a toothbrush. The method is suitable for silk decorations.

After processing, put everything in its place.

Replacing filter cartridges (how to clean the filter in an aquarium)

Filter sponges perform two functions: they purify liquid and accumulate beneficial microorganisms. Do not disturb the balance, carefully remove mechanical impurities. Use liquid only from the aquarium.

The internal filter is replaced when it becomes dirty. The replacement signal is poor water flow, loss of shape. This happens once a year or more. In the internal filter, the sponge consists of several parts. Change only one. After two weeks, when the clean sponge is filled with microorganisms, replace the next part.

Elements made of porous material: rings, balls, change once every 3 months.

Wash the rotor head with a cotton swab. Do not use detergents.

Draining water

Use a siphon or hose to drain the water. Combine the descent with cleaning the bottom and soil. Lower the tube deeper to remove contaminated areas. Collect the contents in a bucket. If the vessel is filled with large fish, feel free to lower the other end of the hose into the sewer. Provided that the soil is pebbles.

Water replacement is done partially from 15 to 50%. It depends on some factors:

• population density;
• filter power;
• presence of plants;
• fish size and traction clean water.

A complete replacement of water is required in extreme cases - an epidemic.

Water level restoration

Pour in liquid by drip. But before this they stand and bring it to temperature in the aquarium. A saucer is placed on the surface of the soil. Water is slowly poured from a watering can or hose. Once in the saucer, the liquid does not erode the soil.

After filling, turn on the filter and the rest of the equipment.

Cleaning the outside of the aquarium

Wet a sponge with soapy water and wash the outside of the glass to remove drops and fingerprints. Then, rinse with a damp and dry cloth.

Determination of water purity several hours after manipulation

To correctly determine water parameters, test for the presence of nitrates. For fish that love clean water, the indicator is 5-20 mg/l. For undemanding specimens, it is enough to withstand 20-30 mg/l.

How to clean an aquarium with a siphon

The components of a siphon are a pump and a tube. One part is lowered into the aquarium. By pumping it up, they suck out the dirt. To do this, place a tip on the tube, shake the soil, and remove the waste.

Bottom

Lower the end of the siphon with a special nozzle deep into the aquarium and slightly lift the soil. By pressing the pump, debris from the bottom will flow out through the tube, and the remaining soil will sink. Do not touch areas with plants so as not to disturb the root system.

Sand

Otherwise, the sand is cleaned. A hose is used here. Lower one end to the sand, the other end into the bucket. When collecting increment from the surface, sand gets in. After cleaning, rinse it under running water and return it to the aquarium.

Priming

Living plants do not grow without a substrate. Therefore, the bottom is covered with a layer of soil. The next layer is sand or pebbles. The soil is cleaned during general cleaning. The substrate is heat treated or changed.

If the plants are decorative, the soil means sand, quartz, pebbles. Clean once a week with a hose or siphon.

How to clean an aquarium without draining the water

If you use a net to clean the aquarium, the water will remain at the same level. Place the tool in the sand. It will successfully sift and fall out, and the contaminants will be in the net.

The walls are washed with water from the aquarium using a magnetic scraper.

Decorative elements are pulled out and washed.

How to clean large aquariums

Large structures are cleaned in the same way as small containers. If the soil is pebbly, use a siphon, sand - a hose.

Rules for preparing a new portion of water

The water used for the additive is settled. The temperature is maintained at the same temperature as the drain fluid. Add by drops so that the water is saturated with oxygen and, upon impact, saturates the upper surface with moisture.

Procedure if it is necessary to catch fish from an aquarium tank

To catch fish, prepare a trap yourself. Take plastic bottle, cut off the neck. Using a hot nail, make holes all over the surface so that the product sinks. Place a weight and fish food in the middle. Turn the neck inside the bottle. Thread a rope through the holes to lift the trap. Place the product in the aquarium and wait for the catch.

Features of using aquarium salt

Sea salt, unsuitable for food, has found use in aquariums. Problems related to fish health can be solved with salt:

• used in stressful situations.
• during transportation;
• the effect of salt affects osmoregulation.

Salt changes the quality of water.

How to care for salt water aquariums

To prepare sea water, distilled or double purified liquid is used. Simply standing up will not be enough.

• measure parameters every day;
• using pumps to simulate flow;
• partially change the water weekly;
• Clean the walls once a week;
• monitor equipment;
• regularly test water quality;
• Clean weekly from food debris and excrement.

Works globally are no different from a freshwater aquarium.

Getting rid of pests and excess organic matter, restoring the biobalance of the aquarium

Beneficial microelements and harmful algae develop in the vessel. Biobalance is required. In case of deviation, various methods are used:

• launching cleaners (snails, shrimps, fish);
• mechanical cleaning;
• reducing daylight hours to 8 hours;
• adjusting the number of fish;
• vessel restart;
• artificial and living Sera filters;
• purchased preparations to combat algae.

Before using any method, identify the cause of the imbalance in biobalance.

Biological organisms that clean aquariums

Toxic products (excrement, leftover food, plant waste) are neutralized and broken down by beneficial bacteria into a form suitable for plant nutrition.

Bacterial waste products are absorbed by filters or removed by water changes.

Plants purify water, absorb carbon dioxide, and release oxygen. Floating plants are considered the most active.

Among biological organisms, mollusks stand out. They convert calcium into an insoluble state, bring food residues to the desired consistency, and bacteria can easily process them in the future.

Amoebas prefer to feed on algae and organic debris. This gives food to bacteria.

The appearance of bryozoans in the vessel indicates a successful balance. Since they live only in clean water with a sufficient dose of oxygen.

All flora and fauna participate in the biological balance of the aquarium, but their importance is unequal.

Snails

Active algae fighters among snails:

• Helena;
• Corbicula java;
• Zebra;
• Black ear;
• Hedgehog;
• Porcelain septaria.

The temperature is in the range of 22-27 degrees.

Snails do not reproduce in a vessel, except for the “black ear” species. Caviar can be seen on the walls of the glass.

The horned snail Neritina Gliton lives among the fish for up to 5 years. The uniqueness of the species is its miniature size of 1-1.5 cm.

Fish

Cleaner fish benefit freshwater aquariums by:

• Siamese algae eaters;
• otocinclus;
• Ancistrus.

The main food of fish is algae. Content temperature is 23-26 degrees.

Shrimps

Shrimp are popular among aquarists:

• Amano;
• Crystal;
• Cherry;
• Black Tiger.

Shrimp destroy algae and rotting plant leaves.

Causes of pathogenic algae growth

There are many types of algae, the causes of which can be:

• disturbance of biobalance (bacteria, fungi, mollusks, etc.);
• lack or excess of daylight hours;
• dead organic matter.

Poisons accumulate in the aquarium, which give rise to algae and have a detrimental effect on all living things.

Basic rules for daily aquarium care

• Checking parameters.
• Feeding the fish.
• Monitor the operation of equipment (blessing, filtration, aeration, heating devices).
• Look at the condition of the fish - are they all healthy? If you identify a sick specimen, immediately transfer it to a separate container.

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Probably, each of you, having read the title of the topic, will ask the question: “so what’s wrong with this, what is the complexity of the process?”
However, despite the apparent simplicity of the issue, this is a very serious operation.
Let me start with a little math.

Let's just say that the average lifespan of an aquarium is about 7 years.
During this period of time, the aquarist cleans the glass every 7-10 days. (Let's take 10)
What happens: in 1 month - 3 times => 36 times per year and in 7 years = 252 times. This is not a small number. And if you also take into account the fact that on average, for a 200 liter aquarium it takes 15 minutes to clean the glass, then it is not difficult to calculate the hours spent on this procedure (63 hours or about 2.5 days).
So, as you can see for yourself, despite the simplicity of the issue, it is worth considering in more depth. And believe me, in the end you will understand how comfortably you can organize the whole process, and secondly, how to spend less time on this procedure, and of course the quality of work will also be considered.

Why do you need to clean aquarium glass?

As we know, there are aquariums made of silicate glass, and others from org. glass or plex or plastiglaz if that’s more convenient for you.
That's why they are serviced differently. Naturally, the glass is cleaned on both sides, both on the outside and inside the aquarium. Therefore, we will talk about how to clean glass inside an aquarium.
One small nuance should be noted: when cleaning an aquarium, the most important thing is to perform this procedure as gently as possible for the glass of the aquarium, without scratching them. As a rule, grains of soil that rise into the water column and settle on the materials being cleaned act as an abrasive, which is quite capable of striping glass.
Which will lead to a lot of trouble in the future.
You will either have to contact a specialist to polish the damaged glass, or, and sometimes it’s easier to replace the entire aquarium.

I'll start with plex aquariums.

Plex, unlike silicate glass, is a fairly soft material, so it is very easy to scratch. Therefore, it is cleaned only with materials that are softer in composition than plex.
Next, I will analyze a number of materials and tools intended for cleaning glass, and also write the pros and cons of using these materials.

Bandage.

The most optimal for cleaning org. glass and silicate glass there will be a bandage folded in several layers.
Many aquarists simply forgot about this universal material, which is completely harmless to the inhabitants of the underwater world. But it does the job well.
Naturally, from time to time it needs to be washed by rinsing in water, or replaced with a new tampon, but thanks to its mesh structure, softness and low cost, the bandage is practically universal remedy for this operation.

Sponges.

Actually, the sponge, despite all its cheapness, is not very well suited for this procedure for cleaning glass. The back side of a kitchen sponge, which is made with a layer of hard material similar to artificial felt, is more suitable.
But again, it clogs quite quickly and therefore, using even such a modified sponge is not always applicable.
Moreover, if a fraction of the soil gets under the felt, scratches on the glass cannot be avoided.
The sponge is more suitable for the final processing of glass after cleaning it; it allows you to brush away any remaining deposits and thereby complete the glass cleaning procedure.

I must say very good remedy, which allows you to clean the glass, even with all your desire you will not be able to scratch them, since the fractions of the soil will simply fall into the structure of the washcloth and cause minimal harm even if you do not detect them during the process.
There is only one minus.
You need to rub very hard and for a long time with such a washcloth to get rid of plaque.

Iron wool (stainless steel)

I don’t recommend using it at all; firstly, it’s not a fact that stainless steel shavings will be used in production. And in general, the presence of any metal in an aquarium is highly undesirable.
Secondly, the metal base is quite rigid and therefore, at certain angles in relation to the glass, it may well scratch it, not to mention the soil, which can get stuck in the washcloth and act as an abrasive.

Plastic card

Many aquarists use old bank cards to remove fouling from glass like a spatula.
I must say that the know-how is quite good, firstly, it can be used to service aquariums even from Plex. Secondly. When grinding the working edge, it is very easy to restore it by aligning the edge of the tool, i.e. ensure its reusable use.

Blades.

Very often, aquarists use blades to speed up the process of cleaning glass from tougher deposits. We can’t say that this is the optimal choice, but so to speak, the price/quality is quite satisfactory when using such a tool.
Therefore, in everyday life among aquarists there are both safety blades and blades from “wallpaper and stationery” knives.

The main thing when using such blades is that the angle of the blade to the glass is not too large and the blade does not scratch the glass of the aquarium.

Scrapers

The modern market is abundantly equipped with various devices that allow lazy aquarists to bring the aquarium to a more or less clean state without even getting their hands wet.
Under one name there are several types of tools that allow you to perform glass cleaning operations.

Magnetic scrapers.

They consist of two halves, one half is immersed in the aquarium. The other is applied to the glass from the outside, through magnetism, the halves are attracted. Moving one half along the outside of the aquarium, the one that is immersed repeats the movements while cleaning the glass. The immersed half is covered with a tough material that allows you to clean off even very stubborn fouling.
It should be taken into account that the half has the properties of attracting various metal objects that can get between the glass and the magnet, thereby scratching the glass as well as pieces of soil.

Branded scrapers.

The fact is that if aquarists simply use blades, holding them with their hands or with homemade holders. The market can provide a whole range of scrapers that allow you to clean and clean glass quite comfortably. At the same time, it protects both the aquarist’s hands from damage when using the blades, and reduces the likelihood of damage to the glass when performing this operation.

Also, such tools are equipped with rods and handles that allow you to increase the length of the handle for cleaning deep aquariums. This is how scrapers of completely different sizes are made, allowing for cleaning even in...
It should be noted that such scrapers most often require good care, since the blades on them quickly become dull and wear out, and are also susceptible to corrosion and rust formation, so the aquarist must provide timely care for the instrument to avoid damage.
Like any other tool that provides care for an aquarium, etc. various cleaning products must be thoroughly disinfected, if the aquarist maintains more than one aquarium, but several, this will reduce the risk of transferring various bacteria from one aquarium to another, and will also allow not to disturb the general flora when introducing foreign bacteria.

Cleaning the outside of the aquarium glass.

It must be said that the use of various chemicals in an aquarium to clean the glass inside is not permissible, which cannot be said about its external part.
But despite the fact that many aquarists use such aggressive glass cleaning agents based on ammonia (Mr. Muscle, galla glass, Silvia, etc.),
It is best to clean glass using less aggressive compounds, since there is no guarantee that later, when splashed or with your hands, particles of the solution will get into the aquarium.
If these are ordinary hand marks (grease stains and dried water stains), then simply wipe them with a flannel after sprinkling the stains with water.
Or by breathing steam from your mouth onto the glass of the aquarium and wiping it with a cloth.
If a more stable coating has formed on the glass, then baking soda or, in extreme cases, a blade will come to the rescue.

Rub the glass to a crystal shine using crumpled newspaper or a paper towel.

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Hello!

The solution to your problem of cleaning an old aquarium is equivalent to cleaning the glass from old limescale deposits, the so-called “water stone”.

At the level of the water's edge, a white coating appears on aquarium glass over time. These are calcium salts and impurities contained in tap water. During constant use of the aquarium, they are easy to remove during routine cleaning; to do this, just add water above the deposit level. After some time, the white coating will soften, and it can be removed with a special brush for cleaning an aquarium or a slightly abrasive sponge, such as the one housewives use for washing dishes, or a scraper with a flat blade.

As a result of prolonged exposure to water, the structure of the glass changes - it becomes cloudy and loses transparency. This makes cleaning out an old, unused aquarium much more difficult.

To deal with white deposits on aquarium glass, household glass cleaners are suitable.

These can be liquid non-abrasive products based on acid solutions and surfactants, such as liquid Silit Bank.

Soak a sponge in the detergent solution and gently but forcefully rub the surface of the glass under hot water. In especially severe cases, soaking for 15-20 minutes will help. To do this, place the side of the aquarium to be cleaned horizontally and apply a layer of cleaning agent directly to the glass, let it stand, then scrub.

White deposits from water can be cleaned with a solution of acetic acid. Fill the aquarium with hot water, add vinegar to the water at the rate of a tablespoon of essence per liter of water, and let stand for at least an hour. The sediment will soften under the action of acid and will be easily washed off with a sponge. Afterwards, rinse the glass with water containing dissolved ammonia. You can cover the glass to be treated with paper soaked in vinegar, leave it for a while, then wash it.

A more gentle and harmless product for the aquarium is citric acid. Procedure to choose from:

Place the glass to be processed horizontally. Lightly moisten the glass surface with warm water and add citric acid to make a paste. Spread the paste over the entire surface and stir occasionally. Monitor the condition every half hour and repeat the operation if necessary.

Fill the aquarium to the brim with hot water, add food grade citric acid to the water, the amount depends on the volume of the aquarium, it is advisable to make a more concentrated solution. Limescale dissolves perfectly when boiled with citric acid, if this can actually be done in an aquarium, it’s worth a try.

The most important condition after cleaning the aquarium using any of the described means is a thorough rinse under running water, subsequent neutralization with a soda solution and a thorough rinse again! To remove residual cleaning agents, you can fill the aquarium and let the water sit for several days, then rinse again.

Then the aquarium must be ventilated outdoors, and only after that prepare the water for the fish.

Algae is one of the most pressing problems for aquarists. The growth of algae, like the greening of water, is the result of an imbalance in the mini aquarium ecological system.

It should be immediately clarified that fertilizers, including phosphates, nitrates, etc. do not have a direct connection with the growth of unwanted vegetation, on the contrary, they partially suppress it, and the addition of minerals and vitamins does not cause the development of diseases among aquatic inhabitants.

On this moment The real and compelling reasons are:

• Reduced oxygen concentration in water. It can be present not only due to poorly functioning aeration, but also due to overcrowding, excessive heat, overfeeding, and exposure to sunlight. As a result, the low oxygen content in the water interferes with the natural distribution of nutrients, which causes them to accumulate in one part of the aquarium. It is to this place that all living creatures tend to, creating overpopulation and aggravating the already bad situation.
• Contamination with organic material. Over time, the soil at the bottom of the aquarium becomes increasingly overgrown with various organic matter from uneaten food debris. In nature, this is done by snails, crustaceans and shrimp, processing them within themselves; if such cleaners are not in the aquarium, the accumulation will occur much faster.
• Lack of biological balance. The absence of plants and bacteria in the required concentration inevitably leads to greening and algae fouling of the water.
• Rare water changes. Unfortunately, not a single plant helps with water blooms and the lack of regular transfusion leads to the development of the “green euglena” bacterium, especially in the spring. In nature, water changes are carried out by numerous springs and streams that feed reservoirs and lakes.

Glass washing

Over time, the walls of each aquarium become coated with a green or brownish coating of microscopic algae or bacterial mucus.

A brownish coating is a signal that the lighting in the aquarium is too low, and a greenish coating indicates excess (so richer color, the more excess light, the norm is a light green tint that accumulates for a very long time).

The aquarium should be washed as follows:

Bottom cleaning

Cleaning the bottom is a very troublesome task, so it’s whiter in a simple way will delay the need for flushing as much as possible.

There are 2 rules that will keep the bottom clean much longer:

• When feeding, do not throw food in handfuls or in too much volume., the fish do not have time to catch everything, and the food falling to the bottom begins to accumulate bacteria around itself, spreading dirt and accelerating the flowering and growth of algal masses.
• It is effective to use not granular food, but special nutrient lumps that are attached to the walls of the aquarium.

If desired, any fish can feed at any time without spreading dirt.

But even if you follow the rules, sooner or later you will have to start cleaning the bottom. Before doing this, you should clean all the walls and remove driftwood, corals and all other decorative items. The most the best way

cleaning is the use of a siphon hose.

It is a simple hose with an expander attached at one end (if you make a homemade one, it can be replaced by a bottle with a cut off bottom, the neck of which is inserted into the hose; you need to put a net on the cut end so that no fish are sucked in), and with the other side is a pear.

• Cleaning instructions fit into 3 main steps:
• When cleaning the walls after using the bark, you need to wait about 20 minutes so that all the silt raised from the bottom falls back.
• The siphon hose must be moved along the bottom while constantly working with the pear; all dirt must be immediately poured into a bucket once every 30 hickeys with the pear.

Such cleaning is not only an excellent prevention of diseases of aquatic inhabitants, but also gives good appearance and the possibility of good oxygen exchange in the gills of fish. This procedure should preferably be carried out at least 2 times a month, and in the spring it won’t hurt 3 times, since the growth rate of algae accelerates significantly.

Cleaning aquarium filters and aeration units will not be a difficult process if you do it in a timely manner, and not when it has stopped working due to excessive overload. There are 2 types of cleaning filters in an aquarium:

• Washing the filtration elements. Such washing must be carried out regularly due to the constant accumulation of microorganisms.

But you shouldn’t get too carried away with constant washing, because not only algae accumulates on the filters, but also beneficial bacteria, if they are contained, the fish will be more lethargic and susceptible to diseases.

It is enough to wash the parts once every 20 days under running water without using soap or other cleaning products.

• Detailed washing of filtration elements. Anyone who has ever washed a filter has noticed that the system has not one, but two filter sponges. Many people dismiss it as a useless part, but it is a truly useful innovation.

The fact is that, as a rule, the entire mass of beneficial bacteria accumulates on the first sponge; after washing, the cleaner one should be swapped with the dirtier one. Thanks to this, a balance between harmful and beneficial bacteria is maintained.

When cleaning filters, there are 3 taboos that should not be violated under any circumstances:

• Filters should not be cleaned with soap or any other means., this will destroy beneficial bacteria, and heavy metals that are part of most are harmful to fish detergents, will only harm the fish.
• Do not wash filters with hot water.
• There is advice floating around on the Internet about sterilizing the entire mechanism with alcohol, vodka or cologne, which under no circumstances should be done.

Cleaning the soil in the aquarium

Clearing the soil is a very labor-intensive job, which is not necessary to do unless necessary. It is very easy to determine the time when to carry out the procedure; you just need to stir the pebbles at the bottom and smell the rising bubbles.

If the smell resembles a rotten egg or rotten hay, this is a clear signal to clean the soil. The fact is that the waste products of fish, falling to the bottom, begin to decompose over time, releasing toxic gas - hydrogen sulfide.

With its abundance, small organisms like fish suffer greatly from a decrease in oxygen, or millet cannot breathe; if this continues for too long, the fish first get sick and then die.

In order not to end up like this and bury all your beloved pets, you need to carry out timely cleaning.

Cleaning should be carried out after transplanting all the fish into a separate container for a while. It is necessary to pour out half the water and remove all the pebbles, corals and decor, leaving a bare bottom. Wash all the stones under running water without soap and let dry a little on a towel.

• Corals are a different story; the instructions for washing them are as follows:
• Add 50 g of sea salt per liter of boiling water and stir until completely dissolved, wait until it cools. When will the water be room temperature
• , the coral should be lowered there and left for several hours, but it would be nice for a day. If the coral has a very strong unpleasant odor, it should not be thrown back into the aquarium.

You need to clean it with toothpaste using a toothbrush, then rinse it with water and let it stand in salt water for a few more hours.

Of course, it is impossible to wash coral to perfect condition due to its porous structure, so sooner or later it will have to be boiled in salt water, after which it will become fragile and the shelf life will no longer be more than a year.

Changing the water in the aquarium It should be noted right away that a complete water change should be carried out extremely rarely, and a partial replacement will improve the environment, making the fish more alert, and ecological processes

closer to reality.

The main goal of replacing water is to reduce the percentage of nitrates, the density of which is constantly growing and this is a natural phenomenon in nature. If permanent residents gradually adapt to nitrate water, then for new residents it is stress and shock, which often turns fatal for the fish.

Many people think that replacing water is a huge project that requires a lot of time and effort, but in reality everything is simpler.

• The first question is - How much water should be changed:
• If replacement is carried out once every one or two weeks, then it will be enough to replace 10% of the original volume.
• Once every 4 weeks, it is necessary to replace at least 25% of the original volume.

The regime is also important, consistency in change, it should not be so that the water was first replaced every week, and then the owner decided to do it once every six months, changing the water in the entire aquarium 100%, the fish are also alive, they simply will not have time to adapt to such drastic changes.

Also, the water supplied from the tap is constantly chlorinated with chlorine and if the water is too dirty, chloramine is used to be on the safe side.

Such water must be ventilated (in simple terms, let it settle).

For the first case, at least a day, preferably two, and chloramine remains in the water for at least a week, so you need to wait a little longer than the minimum period.

• You can speed up weathering using 30% sodium thiosulfate, which is stored in every first aid kit; you should add it at the rate of 1 drop per liter.
• You can wash the fish’s home without disturbing them too much, but such cleaning will have to be done more often, it should be done every 2 weeks:
• Pull out the pump and rinse it under running water, but the main thing is not to overdo it.
• Use a scraper to clean all the walls, as described above,

At least 3rd part of the original water must be drained; information about the replacement rules has also already been given.

Put the pump back, see if the aerator is clogged, and flush the lighting.

The need for thorough cleaning of the pump aerator and pump can be explained very simply. You need to throw some kind of float onto the surface of the water; if it has not moved from one side of the aquarium to the other in 10 minutes, it’s time to rinse it thoroughly.:

Such fish are very useful and will help in putting things in order for older people or beginners who are afraid to touch anything in the aquarium.

• The most popular orderlies due to their beauty and effectiveness are In the aquarium, it is necessary to constantly monitor the interspecific balance and carry out activities such as:
• Daily inspection.
• The easiest way to do this is during feeding. When everyone is busy with business and not rushing around, the main attention should be paid to the color (is it natural, not spots, ulcers, wounds) and pay attention to appetite. Checking the temperature and operation of the main systems (aerators, etc.)
• You should monitor not only the fish, but also the plants; if they turn yellow, most likely it’s time to clean the water a little or there is too much chemical in it.
• If the water overheats, it should be cooled immediately To do this, you need to scoop out the superheated water in small portions and replace it with cool water. And make a change until the required level is leveled; you cannot add cold water suddenly, this will be too much of a shock for the plants and fish.

Any aquarium must contain a certain number of different microorganisms. Sometimes they can settle on the walls of the container, spoiling its appearance. Sooner or later, glass must be cleaned from the inside, and fouling can sometimes be very difficult to remove. In addition, in order not to disturb the biological balance, it is recommended not to put your hands into the aquarium again. In this case, scrapers, which are available in abundance on the shelves of pet stores, come to the rescue.

There are two types of fouling in aquariums - bacterial and algal. If the first can be dealt with using a foam sponge and various types, the situation with the second type is somewhat more complicated. It is quite difficult to remove from glass, and various blades and rough scrapers can help here.

Aquarium cleaning scraper: varieties

A scraper is a special tool that allows you to special effort direct . As a rule, in its simplest form it is a dense sponge attached with a metal frame to a straight handle.

In a specialized pet store you can choose such a scraper with a handle of different lengths depending on the size of the aquarium. There are scrapers with a rubber working surface and metal blades for removing thick layers of dirt.

There are also combined tools - scrapers with a sponge on one side and a blade on the other.

Widespread in last years received magnetic scrapers, the design of which will be discussed below. Ultra-modern battery-powered scrapers are also available for sale.

For example, the German company Eheim offers a cleaning device that automatically very effectively removes not only plaque, but even limescale deposits. Not a bad gift for professional aquarists!

Aquarium scraper with blade

This tool works well to clean the walls of the aquarium if they are very overgrown with hard algae. The working surface of the scraper resembles a safety razor.

The design of the device, where the blade is movable, allows you to clean out plaque even in the most inaccessible corners of the aquarium.

The plastic strip protects the glass from scratches, and the replaceable blade itself is made of stainless steel. Manufacturers offer a wide range of scrapers, as well as extension attachments for them.

Aquariums made of plexiglass need to be cleaned with great care, as it scratches easily.

Scraper with blade.

How to make an aquarium scraper with your own hands?

You can try to clean the vertical surfaces of the aquarium with improvised means, but experts do not recommend using, for example, a simple household sponge. If the aquarium is small, an ordinary safety razor attached with wire or fishing line to a handle of the required length will do.

Magnetic scraper for an aquarium: pros and cons

This cleaning tool is very convenient to use and quite effective. The design and principle of application are already included in the very name of the tool.

It is a combination of two flat magnets with a strong magnetic field. The attraction of the two parts of such a device provides quite effective cleaning vertical surfaces both inside and outside the aquarium.

Tools are available for glass of various thicknesses. The thicker the aquarium glass, the stronger the magnetic field.

The indisputable advantage of magnetic scrapers is

• the ability to clean without putting your hands or any objects into the water,
• the process does not irritate or frighten the inhabitants of the aquarium.

As a disadvantage, we can mention its low efficiency when cleaning a thick layer of microorganisms or when removing limescale.

For ease of use and storage, many manufacturers of aquarium accessories make the inside of the tool floating. When not working, the scraper rests freely on the surface of the water.

Magnetic scraper.

Unusual products for glamorous aquarists

The range of cleaning scrapers is quite extensive. Leading manufacturers of aquarium accessories such as Karlie, Penn Plax, Hobby, JBL, Hagen and several others offer scrapers of all types and a wide price range.

The world of glamor has also affected the sphere of aquarium accessories. For example, for wealthy lovers of decorative pet fish and connoisseurs of expensive things, the NANO Gold scraper was created, the blade of which is coated with gold. Such an instrument is a great gift for a goldfish lover, and can also become a source of pride for a collector.

The owner of the aquarium can decide for himself which cleaning tool is most suitable for him. It is important to remember one rule: you do not need to wait until the glass walls are covered with a thick layer of plaque. Cleaning the glass at least once a week will help keep your aquarium in perfect condition.

Video on how to clean an aquarium using a homemade scraper: