Knitted openwork sleeveless vest from the Victoria's Secret collection. Description of knitting.
This stylish sleeveless vest will keep you warm in the cold and won’t let you go unnoticed in any company. Warm and comfortable, soft and elastic (without a single seam) - this pattern is knitted in a very unusual way, in the round! Want to learn a new knitting technique in the round?! Then let's get started :-)
This sleeveless vest is knitted in an on-line thread on the Osinka forum and it is known to many knitters under the name “Frosty Pattern”. Since the topic has already exceeded a hundred pages and not everyone has the opportunity and time to read all the messages in the topic, I will allow myself to briefly talk about my experience in knitting this blouse, what difficulties may be encountered in the process and how to avoid them.
Let me start by saying that the main feature of knitting this blouse is that the front and back are knitted in the round from the center, i.e. based on the principle of knitting a napkin. Despite this non-standard method of knitting, a sleeveless vest is knitted quite quickly due to thick thread, large knitting needles, an openwork pattern and numerous yarn overs, and at the same time simply (if you practice a little knitting in the round with knitting needles).
To knit an openwork sleeveless vest with knitting needles we will need (size 44-46):
- blue yarn (I used Emma yarn, 100% acrylic, 100 g. = 205 m.) - 200 g.
(this is not a typo, indeed, it took me only 2 skeins of yarn, 100 g each, to make this sleeveless vest. :-))
- stocking needles and knitting needles on fishing line No. 5;
- hook No. 4;
Advice: The right yarn is the key to success! Since the knitting pattern does not involve changes, i.e. The pattern is such that it is very difficult to shorten or lengthen it, then the size of the future product depends entirely on the thickness of the yarn and the size of the knitting needles. The yarn should not only be of a suitable size, but also quite voluminous (that’s why I chose acrylic for knitting). Before starting knitting, I recommend trying to knit a sample using different types of yarn (and different numbers of knitting needles), then wet the samples and dry them on a flat surface.
I recommend knitting the central “Star” pattern for the sample, then measure the length of the diagonal (from the edge of one ray of the star to the opposite edge, passing through the center) and multiply by a factor of 2.3. The resulting value in centimeters will mean the approximate (!) length of the diagonal of the finished sleeveless vest, which will be obtained by continuing knitting with the selected yarn and knitting needles.
In my case, the diagonal of the “Star” is 23 cm, the length of the diagonal of the finished front is approx. 53 cm. The length of the side of the square can be calculated as the length of the diagonal divided by 1.4. From here we get that the side length is approx. 38 cm. All these calculations were made in a non-stretched form; similar values can be calculated on a stretched sample.
This is the sleeveless vest pattern I ended up with:
Figure 1. Pattern for a sleeveless vest for size 44-46
Knitting description:
As I already said, this blouse is knitted from the center front/back and then in the round. At the same time, if desired, the back of this sweater can be knitted in the same openwork pattern as the front, or it can be knitted simply with stockinette stitch.
I recommend (especially for beginner knitters) to knit the back with an openwork pattern, since in this case both the front and the back are equally elastic (due to knitting in the circle, the knitted fabric stretches equally well in all directions), in addition, with this method of knitting you can completely avoid seams by connecting the loops with a knitted seam, i.e. loop to loop.
1. Back. We knit according to the pattern (note that the pattern shows only odd rows; in even rows, all loops are knitted). Click on the diagram to enlarge:
Figure 2. Knitting pattern for an openwork pattern
The set of stitches of the first row must be done as follows: cast on 16 single crochets and distribute them on stocking needles, as shown in the figure:
Figure 3. Starting knitting in the round
Next, knit in the round on stocking needles. I recommend looking at step-by-step photographs of the beginning of the pattern made by a craftswoman Rusalo4ka.
As the pattern expands, it is convenient to switch to knitting needles on a fishing line (in the last rows of the pattern, you can even use 2 pairs of knitting needles on a fishing line: distribute half the loops on some knitting needles and the other on others. This way you can better see the forming knitted fabric).
Note, that when knitting the “Star” pattern, the pattern turns out not flat, but convex. Subsequently, after washing and drying, the pattern will straighten.
After the pattern is completely knitted, we transfer all the loops to the auxiliary thread (the thread should be long enough so that you can freely distribute all the loops along it and lay out the back in the form of a square).
Then I recommend washing the back and drying it on a flat surface, stretching it slightly so that the pattern becomes flat.
When using wool or cotton yarn, the product can also be ironed (under no circumstances should yarn with acrylic be ironed!).
2. Front We knit similarly to the back. In the 37th row of the pattern, to form the neckline, remove the middle 9 knit stitches (see the inverted heart in the knitting pattern) onto an auxiliary needle.
Next, we switch to knitting with front and back rows, continuing to knit according to the pattern.
To form a deepening of the neckline, to the right and left of the removed loops, at the end of each row we unknit several loops, and also transfer them to the auxiliary knitting needle:
in rows 38-41 - unknit 2 loops on each side, in subsequent rows - unknit 1 loop.
After the front is completely knitted, we transfer the neck loops to one auxiliary thread and tie the ends of this thread in a knot. We transfer all the remaining front loops to another auxiliary thread, and I recommend starting to string the loops from the neck, i.e. Place the shoulder loops first, then the side surface, bottom, etc.
After transferring all the loops, wrap the auxiliary thread leaving long ends on both sides (so that all front loops can be freely distributed on the thread and laid out on a flat surface). This stringing is necessary to make it more convenient to sew the shoulder seam loops in the future.
Wash and dry the front, laying it out on a flat surface.
3. Assembly: We fold the front and back with the wrong sides facing each other, so that the pattern on them matches.
Then we sew the loops shoulder seam knitted seams as follows:
Figure 4. Knitted seam
At the same time, I recommend starting stitching from the neckline and going in the direction of the sleeve neckline. Do not secure the ends of the thread you are sewing with, but leave the ends approx. 15 cm free. This is necessary in case you need to make a few more stitches in both at the beginning or end of the shoulder seam.
Another important point: the shoulder seam goes from the neckline to the third (central) petal of the pattern, I recommend that you sew a couple more loops after this petal. This is necessary so that the seam fits better on the shoulder and so that the cuff of the armhole does not puff up towards the top.
In my case, the shoulder seam was 17 loops.
Next, we sew the loops of the side seams in the same way: from the middle of the side (see the tip of the inverted heart in the diagram) and further down to the third (central petal).
I recommend sewing 2-3 additional loops together in these seams at the bottom (to narrow the sweater at the waist) and leaving the ends of the thread free so that you can sew (or unravel) several stitches if necessary.
In my case, the side seams contain 30 loops.
4. Transfer the remaining stitches of the neckline, sleeves and bottom to separate auxiliary threads.
Please note that all these elements will be knitted with a 3 by 3 elastic band (or, if desired, 2 by 2), and therefore the number of loops in them should be a multiple of 6 (or 4, for a 2 by 2 elastic band).
The number of loops for the neck, sleeves and bottom can be adjusted using the ends of the threads left when sewing (for example, sew or unravel 1-2 loops), as well as using decreases, i.e. knitting 2 loops together (it is important to distribute the decreases evenly around the entire circumference).
By the way, at this stage the sweater can already be tried on your figure.
5. Transfer the sleeve loops (in my case 48 loops) onto the knitting needles and knit 7 rows (2.5 cm) with a 3 by 3 elastic band, close the loops, tightening them a little (so that the cuffs do not puff up).
6. Next, we move on to knitting the neckline and bottom elastic band, and it is extremely important that the edge of the neckline and elastic band is very elastic. From my own experience, I will say that I was not immediately able to achieve the required elasticity of the edge, which led to the fact that my head did not fit into the sweater or the bottom edge was very tight on the product :-)
The problem was that I tried different methods of closing the loops, I still couldn’t find the most elastic method, so I decided to knit the neckline (54 loops) and the hem elastic (90 loops) separately, and then sew them to the sleeveless vest using a knit stitch.
Thus, the problem of elasticity of the edge was solved; in addition, a clear advantage of this method was that it was easier to position the elastic band beautifully and symmetrically relative to the lace pattern.
The neckline and bottom consist of 40 rows (15 cm), knitted with a 3 by 3 elastic band.
7. The finished product can be washed again, dried on a flat surface and ironed.
Attention! Yarn containing acrylic cannot be ironed!
The sleeveless "Frosty pattern" is ready!
Knitting is an opportunity to express beauty using thread. Scientists have proven that needlework on a biological level benefits a woman, gives her femininity and puts her in a peaceful mood. And when a craftswoman creates masterpieces with her own hands, this only adds to the benefits of creativity. The frosty pattern is knitted very easily using regular knitting needles, and the result will not leave you indifferent - the beautiful openwork is perfect for sweaters and shawls.
Knitting a frosty pattern with knitting needles: description and pattern diagram
Let's look at the description of the knitting pattern. The pattern itself is simple to make. The pattern is clear even to a beginner, but you should practice knitting.
When starting work, you need to master the skill of knitting crossed loops, loops for the front and back parts, knitting two loops together for the wrong side and two together for the front side.
These loops are knitted quickly and easily.
- 16 loops are crocheted into a sliding loop. Using 4.5 knitting needles, pull the stitches out of the hook loops onto the knitting needles (4 knitting needles each with 4 loops, a total of 16 loops). A marker is attached, or a contrasting thread can be used. This is the beginning and end of the series. The diagram shows only the front rows and 1/4 of the circle. Knit 3 rows in the round.
- Take knitting needles No. 5. The 5th row is knitted. This is the front row. Crossed loop, 4 yarn overs, two crossed loops, 4 yarn overs, crossed loop. This is repeated 3 more times.
- 6th – row. Purl row. Here the crossed loop is knitted crossed, 4 yarn overs are knitted, k1, p1, k1, p1. etc.
- 7th row. Front row. All stitches are knit stitches.
- 8th – row. Purl row. All loops according to the pattern (front).
- 9th row. Front row. There are two loops in the diagram along with a tilt to the left. There is an option to knit the top piece. In this case, remove from the knitting needle and turn the loops, return them to the left knitting needle, call two together for the lower lobe, 1 knit, 2 yarn overs, 1 knit, two together with a tilt to the right for the upper lobes. Knit until the end of the row, without deviating from the pattern.
- 10th – row. Purl row. The loops that were knitted two together are removed behind the knitting needle. So we knit in the round, where there are two together. The front one is knitted with a knit stitch, 2 yarn overs (1 knit, 1 purl).
- 11th – row. Front row. Knits strictly according to the pattern. Knit this way up to 21 rows, making sure that the loops are even and not twisted.
- 21st – row. Front row. Knit according to the pattern. Two together with a tilt to the left, 1 knit, two together to the right, yarn over, 5 knit, yarn over, two together to the left, 1 knit, two together to the right, yarn over, 5 knit, yarn over. So - 3 more times.
- 22nd – row. Purl row, knitted according to the pattern. The row is circular. Where there were two loops together, the thread is removed strictly behind the knitting needle.
- 23rd – row. Front row. Three loops together (slip 1 loop, knit two together, pull through the removed one), 2 yarn overs, knit 7, yarn over, three together, yarn over, knit 7, yarn over.
- 24th – row. Circular purl row. Where three were knitted together, knit a knit stitch, two yarn overs, (1 knit, 1 purl,) all the rest - according to the pattern. All yarn overs that are made between the petals are knitted with knit stitches.
- 25th – row. Front row. Knit 1, from 1 loop, knit two (1 for the top, and 1 for the bottom). Knit 9, yarn over, knit 1, yarn over, knit 9, etc.
- 26th - row. Circular purl row according to the pattern.
- 27th – row. Front row. From 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2. Two together (to the left), knit 8, yarn over, 1 knit, yarn over, 8 knit, two together (to the right), according to the pattern, from 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2. The knitting of the first petal begins.
- 28th – row. Circular purl row according to the pattern.
- 29th – row. Front row. Crossed loop, 2 yarn overs, 2 crossed, 2 yarn overs, 2 crossed loops, 2 yarn overs, 1 crossed stitch, two together (to the left), 17 knit stitches, two together (to the right).
- 30th – row. Circular purl row. We knit according to the pattern.
- 31st – row. Front row. Crossed, 1 knit, 2 yarn overs, etc.
In this way, knit up to 46 rows. If the pattern is of sufficient size, you can finish the work; if more is needed, knitting continues.
Thus, a square of petals is obtained, which form a frosty pattern.
This pattern is best suited for women's clothing - sweaters, raglans, jumpers. The pattern is interesting and openwork, looks good on thick sweaters - it lightens the product and makes it softer and fluffier.
Let's focus on the right choice of yarn
It is worth considering that this pattern is quite dense. Yarn that is too thick can look rough. When choosing a thread, it is best to knit a test sample with a pattern and evaluate the density of the product. It may be worth using knitting needles of a different diameter for the selected thread, or taking a different yarn.
Things knitted with this pattern, made of angora or wool, look ideal. The thing turns out to be very warm and as if weightless.
Cotton thread produces denser products. However, such a thread can add elasticity to the item. The pattern will be easy to read and will not lose shape when worn.
A selection of videos dedicated to the topic of the article will help you better understand the technology of knitting a frosty pattern.
Video on the topic of the article
Let's start knitting indescribable beauty for ourselves and our loved ones... frosty patterns
First I shared my find... and since there were many of us who wanted to knit this beauty... we started knitting together... in company...
The survey took place in two posts... because I violated the group rules with the second post... and the post was moved to my diary
Poll in the Country of Mothers:
Would you like to link this beauty online?
72 users took part in the survey.
in total there are 176 of us who want to start immediately
and 197 people can join us... and that's great
I’m honestly telling you... I knitted it according to the pattern... I took thin threads... 240m/100g... it looks like my little one-year-old daughter... it has grown a little...
What we need to know first...
1) The sleeveless vest is knitted from the center front/back and then in the round. At the same time, if desired, the back of this sweater can be knitted in the same openwork pattern as the front, or it can be knitted simply with stockinette stitch.
2) TIPS from girls from Osinka:
The right yarn is the key to success! Since the knitting pattern does not involve changes, i.e. the pattern is such that it is very difficult to shorten or lengthen it, the size of the future product depends entirely on the thickness of the yarn and the size of the knitting needles. The yarn should not only be of a suitable size, but also quite voluminous (that’s why I chose acrylic for knitting). Before starting knitting, I recommend trying to knit a sample using different types of yarn (and different numbers of knitting needles), then wet the samples and dry them on a flat surface.
I recommend knitting the central “Star” pattern for the sample, then measure the length of the diagonal (from the edge of one ray of the star to the opposite edge, passing through the center) and multiply by a factor of 2.3. The resulting value in centimeters will mean the approximate (!) length of the diagonal of the finished sleeveless vest, which will be obtained by continuing knitting with the selected yarn and knitting needles.
3) By meter, take yarn from 100m/100g to 200m/100g no thinner...
4) We will need 5 toe knitting needles, the number of knitting needles depends on the yarn... but not thinner than No. 4, a hook similar to the number of knitting needles and 2 pairs of short knitting needles on a fishing line, the same numbers as the hook with toe knitting needles...
5) From girls from Osinka, a pattern has been developed for sizes 44-46... in their case, the diagonal of the “Star” is 23 cm, the length of the diagonal of the finished front is approx. 53 cm. The length of the side of the square can be calculated as the length of the diagonal divided by 1.4. From here we get that the side length is approx. 38 cm. All these calculations were made in a non-stretched form; similar values can be calculated on a stretched sample.
It is recommended (especially for beginner knitters) to knit the back with an openwork pattern, since in this case both the front and the back are equally elastic (due to knitting in the circle, the knitted fabric stretches equally well in all directions), in addition, with this method of knitting you can completely avoid seams by connecting the loops with a knitted seam, i.e. loop to loop.
When knitting the front and back openwork, I recommend starting with knitting the back - it will be a simple square (without a neckline recess), in the front you need to knit a neckline recess.
1. Back.
We knit according to the pattern. The diagram shows 1/4 of the pattern. Please note that the diagram shows only odd rows, about even rows, i.e. purl... I will write below.
This is a more complete diagram... the square is larger 
The set of loops of the first row must be done as follows: cast on 16 single crochets and distribute them on stocking needles, as shown in the figure:
(I’ll describe it in more detail below) 
This diagram is slightly different from the previous one
This is the pattern for the sleeveless vest taken from this napkin 
Symbols for the diagram (front odd rows):
For even purl rows:
where were the facials - facials
where were 2 together - remove the loop, thread at work
where 1 yarn over - 1 knit from a crossed yarn over
where 2 yarn overs - k1, p1 (this is IMPORTANT!)
where the crossed loop is the crossed knit stitch
where 3 together - 1 knit
So. We crochet 16 loops into the sliding loop. Using knitting needles, pull the loops onto the knitting needles from the hook loops (4 knitting needles on each with 4 loops = 16 loops). We attach a marker, there is no marker then a contrasting thread. This will be the beginning and end of the row.
Knit 3 rows in the round. All stitches are knitted. 
We knit further. So, we knitted 4 rows (1 row, sliding loop and elongated loops, and 3 more rows). 
5th row: 1 crossed loop, 4 yarn overs, 2 crossed loops, 4 yarn overs, crossed. a loop. Repeat 3 more times on the remaining 3 knitting needles.
6th row. Purl row. Where is the cross. I advise you to knit the loop crossed (this is important), we knit 4 yarn overs, k1, p1, k1, p1. Repeat 3 times.
7th row. A row of faces. All face loops.
8th row. Purl row. All face loops. 
9-row. persons row. In the diagram, 2cm with a slant to the left, those who knit on the top lobe, remove from the knitting needle and turn the loops, return them to the left knitting needle, knit 2cm over the bottom slice., 1knit, 2 yarn overs, 1knit, 2cm with a tilt to the right, behind upper lobules. And so on until the end of the row. Strictly according to the scheme
10-row. purl, row. This is IMPORTANT, the loops are knitted 2cm, remove the loop, the thread behind the knitting needle. So we knit in the round, where there are 2cm. Knit-knit, 2 yarn overs (k1, p1)
From the 11th row to the 14th row - we knit as the 9th and 10th rows. 
15 row. A row of faces. 2wm with a tilt to the left, 1knit., 2 yarn overs., 1knit., 2wm with a tilt to the right for the upper lobes, yo, 2wm with a tilt to the left, 1knit., 2 yo., 1knit., 2wm with a tilt to the right for the upper lobes, 2 yo . Repeat 3 times.
Row 16: Purl. row. Remove 1 p, thread at work, k1, from 2 yarn overs - k1, purl 1, k1, 1 p. thread at work, slip 1 p, thread at work, k1, from 2 yarn overs - k1, p1, k1, k1, slip. thread at work; repeat 3 times.
Row 17: Knit row. 2vm with a tilt to the left, 1 knit, 2 yo, 1 knit, 2 yo with a tilt to the right for the upper segments, yo, 1 knit, yo, 2 knit with a tilt to the left, 1 knit., 2 yo., 1 knit, 2 yo with a tilt to the right for top slices, yarn over, knit 1, yarn over. Repeat 3 times.
Row 18: Purl. row. Remove 1 st, thread at work, k1, from 2 yarn overs - k1, purl 1, k1, remove 2 sts. thread at work, k1, slip 1 p, thread at work, k1, from 2 yarn overs - k1, purl 1, k1, slip 1. thread at work, person 1; repeat 3 times.
Row 19: Knits. row. 2vm with a slant to the left, 1knit., yarn over, 1knit., 2vm with a slant to the right, for the upper lobes, yarn over, 3knit, yo, 2vm with a slant to the left, 1knit., yarn over, 1knit., 2vm with a tilt to the right for the upper lobes, Yarn over, knit 3, yarn over. Repeat 3 times.
Row 20: Purl. Row 1 p, remove thread at work, k1, from yarn over - k1, k1, k1, remove. thread at work, k3, slip 1 p, thread at work, k1, from yarn over - k1, k1, slip 1. thread at work, 3 persons; repeat 3 times.
Please note that when knitting the “Star” pattern, the pattern is not flat, but convex. Subsequently, after washing and drying, the pattern will straighten.
21st row: Knits. row. 2vm with a tilt to the left, 1 knit, 2vm to the right, yarn over, 5 knit, yo, 2vm to the left, 1 knit, 2 ym to the right, yo, 5 knit, yo, and so on 3 times.
Row 22: Purl. row. 1 p slip, thread at work, k1, slip 1 p, thread at work, k7, 1 p slip, thread at work, k1, 1 p slip, thread at work, k7. Repeat 3 times.
Row 23: Knit row. yarn over, 3tog (slip 1 loop, knit 2 together, pull through the removed one), 2 yarn overs, k7, yo, 3 together, yo, k7, yo. Read 3 times.
24 row. Out. row. K1, where there was 3 in, we knit knit, 2 yarn overs, (k1, p1,) all the rest according to the pattern. Please note that we knit all the yarn overs between the petals.
The star is closer 
Closer look at the pattern 
25-row. Persons row. from 1 loop, knit 2, (1 for the top slice, 1 for the bottom slice), 1 knit, from 1 loop, knit 2, (1 for the top slice, 1 for the bottom slice), 9 knits, yo, 1 knit, yo, 9 knits. Repeat 3 times.
26 row. Purl row. all facial.
27 row. Persons row. from 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2, from 1 loop 2, k2 to the left, k8, yarn over, k1, yarn over, k8, k2 to the right. Repeat 3 times. (We start knitting 5 petals from 1 petal)
Thanks to Mishutina’s mother, there are readable diagrams
Row 28: Purl. row, k10, slip 1 p, thread at work, k19, slip 1, thread at work. Repeat 3 times.
29 row. Faces, row. Sk stitch, 2 yarn overs, 2 stitches, 2 yarn overs, 2 yarn overs, 2 yarn overs, 2 yarn overs, 2 yarn overs, 2 yarn overs, 2 yarn overs, 1 yarn overs, 2 stitches to the left, 17 knits, 2 yarn overs to the right. Repeat 3 times
Row 30 Purl row. Sk stitch, k1, p1, 2sk, k1, p1, 2sk loops, k1, p1, 2sk, k1, p1, 2sk loops, k1, p1, 1sk, 1p remove. thread at work, k17, 1p, remove. thread at work. Repeat 3 times
31st row. A row of faces. Sk stitch, k1, 2 yo, k1, 2 yo, k1, 2 yo, k1, 2 yo, k1, 2 yo, k1, 2 yo, k1, 2 yo, k1, 2 yo, k 1, 2 yo ,K1, 1skr, 2vm left, 15knits, 2vm right. Repeat 3 times.
Knitting 47 and 48 rows
We tie the square according to this pattern
After the pattern is completely knitted, we transfer all the loops to the auxiliary thread (the thread should be long enough so that you can freely distribute all the loops along it and lay out the back in the form of a square).
Then it is recommended to wash the back and dry it on a flat surface, stretching it slightly so that the pattern becomes flat.
When using wool or cotton yarn, the product can also be ironed (under no circumstances should yarn with acrylic be ironed!).
2. Front
We knit similarly to the back. In the 38th row of the pattern, to form the neckline, remove the middle 9 knit stitches onto an auxiliary needle. (These are the last last stitches when knitting in a circle, then the next row will follow)
Next, we switch to knitting with front and back rows, continuing to knit the pattern according to the pattern.
To form a deepening of the neckline, to the right and left of the removed loops, at the end of each row we unknit several loops, and also transfer them to the auxiliary knitting needle:
in rows 38-41 - unknit 2 loops on each side, in subsequent rows - unknit 1 loop.
If you knit 48 rows... then we start forming the neckline not from the 38th row, but from the 40th.
Forming the neckline at the front. 
After the front is completely knitted, we transfer the neck loops to one auxiliary thread and tie the ends of this thread in a knot. We transfer all the remaining front loops to another auxiliary thread, and it is recommended to start stringing loops from the neck, i.e. first transfer the shoulder loops, then the side surface, bottom, etc.
After transferring all the loops, break the auxiliary thread, leaving long ends on both sides so that all front loops can be freely distributed on the thread and laid out on a flat surface. This stringing is necessary to make it more convenient to sew the shoulder seam loops in the future.
Wash and dry the front, laying it out on a flat surface.
3. Assembly.
Fold the front and back with the wrong sides facing each other so that the pattern on them matches.
Then we sew the loops of the shoulder seam with knitted seams, as follows: 
In this case, it is recommended to start stitching from the neckline and go in the direction of the sleeve neckline. Do not secure the ends of the thread you are sewing with, but leave the ends approx. 15 cm free. This is necessary in case it is necessary to make a few more stitches in both parts - at the beginning or at the end of the shoulder seam.
Another important point: the shoulder seam goes from the neckline to the third (central) petal of the pattern; it is recommended to sew a couple more loops after this petal. This is necessary so that the seam fits better on the shoulder and so that the cuff of the armhole does not bulge upward.
This is approximately 17 loops.
Next, we sew the loops of the side seams in the same way: from the middle of the side and further down to the third central petal.
It is recommended to sew together 2-3 additional loops in these seams at the bottom to narrow the sweater at the waist and leave the ends of the thread free so that you can sew or unravel several stitches if necessary.
Approximately the side seams contain 30 loops.
4.
We transfer the remaining loops of the neck, sleeves and bottom to separate auxiliary threads.
Please note that all these elements will be knitted with a 3 by 3 elastic band (or, if desired, 2 by 2), and therefore the number of loops in them should be a multiple of 6 (or 4, for a 2 by 2 elastic band).
The number of loops for the neck, sleeves and bottom can be adjusted using the thread ends left when stitching (for example, sew or unravel 1-2 loops), as well as using decreases, i.e. knitting 2 loops together (it is important to distribute the decreases evenly around the entire circumference).
By the way, at this stage the sweater can already be tried on your figure.
Sleeve knitting pattern (optional) 
5. We transfer the sleeve loops (about 48 loops) to the knitting needles and knit 7 rows (2.5 cm) with a 3 by 3 elastic band, close the loops, tightening them a little so that the cuffs do not puff up.
According to the experience of knitters, it was said that it was not immediately possible to achieve the required elasticity of the edge, which led to the fact that the head did not fit into the sweater or the edge of the bottom was very tight on the product :-)
The problem was that we tried different methods of closing the loops, but could not find the most elastic method, so we decided to knit the neck of 54 loops and the hem of 90 loops separately, and then sew them to the sleeveless jacket with a knit stitch.
Thus, the problem of elasticity of the edge was solved; in addition, a clear advantage of this method was that it was easier to arrange the elastic band beautifully and symmetrically relative to the openwork pattern.
The neckline and bottom consist of 40 rows (15 cm), knitted with a 3 by 3 elastic band.
7.
The finished product can be washed again, dried on a flat surface and ironed.
Attention! Yarn containing acrylic cannot be ironed!
Successful embodiments of the sleeveless "Frosty patterns" by knitters.
(if anyone recognizes themselves in the photo and doesn’t like it... please write... I’ll delete it) 
Every woman wants to have a unique and unrepeatable item in her wardrobe, something that cannot be bought in any boutique. That is why handmade has always been valued and will continue to be valued. It is this desire that makes us take up our knitting needles and spend days searching for a suitable pattern and the right material. In this article we would like to invite you to knit a frosty pattern with knitting needles.
This pattern captivates with its beauty and elegance. Using it, you can knit an excellent pullover with short or long sleeves, and when combined with a turtleneck in a contrasting color, you can further highlight our entire frosty pattern.
It may seem complicated to many, but it is not; you just need to correctly calculate the loops, following the diagram with a detailed description. And if you find it difficult to figure out the diagrams, then the detailed video attached below will help you figure it out. So, let's get to work.
Snow fairy tale
Before starting work, it is worth deciding on the choice of yarn that is best suited for our pattern. Since our pattern is quite dense, it is not recommended to use thick yarn, because it will look rough; here you need something light, airy, but not too thin. Angora or wool is best.
Also carefully select your knitting needles, so as not to make a mistake, it is best to knit a sample.
This pattern is very easy and understandable, but if you are a beginner, then you should pay attention to the fact that the main pattern is made by crossed loops. If this is something new for you and not very clear, then detailed photo tutorials are provided below.
Let's start knitting according to the pattern.
We will need:
- hook number 2 or 3;
- knitting needles No. 4 or 4.5-5 pcs.;
- knitting needles No. 5;
- yarn.
We start working with a sliding loop.
In this loop, use a hook to cast on 16 loops. Using knitting needles, pull out the loops from the hook loops and distribute all 16 loops onto 4 knitting needles.
Mark the beginning of the row and the end of the row using a marker.
Please note that the diagram shows only the front rows. We need to knit three rows in a circle with facial loops.
Thus, we have already knitted 4 rows (1st row – slip stitch and 3 rows of knit stitches). We switch to needles No. 5 and knit according to the pattern: crossed loop, 4 yarn overs, 2 crossed yarn overs, 4 yarn overs, crossed loop. We repeat this three more times.
On the 6th row we knit with purl loops, and we knit crossed loops with crossed ones. On the 7th row we knit all the loops. On the 8th row, purl all the stitches, according to the pattern. On the 9th row: 2 loops together with a tilt to the left, 1 knit, 2 yarn overs, 1 knit, 2 loops together with a tilt to the right. We continue to knit like this until the end of the row. On the 10th row, purl the loops, knit 2 loops together, remove 2 yarn overs, knit 1, purl 1. On the 11th row we knit. We continue to knit strictly according to this pattern until the 21st row.
On the 21st row: 2 loops together with a tilt to the left, 1 knit, 2 loops together with a tilt to the right, yo, 5 knit, yo, 2 loops together with a tilt to the left, 1 knit, 2 together with a tilt to the right, yo, 5 knit , yarn over We repeat the report 3 times. On the 22nd row we knit purl according to the pattern. On the 23rd: 3 loops together, 2 yarn overs, knit 7, yarn over, 3 loops together, yarn over, knit 7, yarn over. On the 24th stitch, purl 3 loops together, knit 1 and 2 yarn overs (1 purl, 1 knit).
On the 25th row: knit 1, knit 2 from one loop, knit 9, yarn over, knit 1, yarn over, knit 9. On the 26th row, purl the stitches according to the pattern. On the 27th row: from 1 loop, knit 2 and so on 3 times in a row, 2 loops together, slanting to the left, 8 knit loops, yarn over, 1 knit loop, yarn over, 2 loops together, slanting to the right and knit three times again from 1 loop 2. We knit the 28th row purl according to the pattern. On the 29th row: crossed loop, 2 yarn overs, 2 crossed loops, 2 yarn overs, 2 crossed loops, 2 yarn overs, 1 crossed loop, 2 loops together with a left bias, 17 knit loops, 2 loops together with a right bias. We knit the 30th row with purl loops according to the pattern. On the 31st row: crossed stitch, knit 1, yarn over 2, repeat until end of row.
Pullover "Frosty pattern"
For a very long time I wanted to knit such a pullover. I spent quite some time sorting out the pattern and finally knitting it together. In my personal opinion, it turned out to be a very beautiful, very winter and quite stylish pullover with short sleeves (wear under a turtleneck).
I used Nako yarn - 400 g, stocking and circular knitting needles No. 4.5, with an elastic band No. 4.
The diagram used is shown below (the diagram is not mine, found on the Internet).
The pullover is based on a square napkin, which is knitted from the center. The diagram shows 1/4 of this napkin.
Instructions for the diagram.
To avoid a very tight ring in the center of the flower, I cast on 4 chain stitches and knitted the required number of stitches from them onto stocking needles. This makes the center of the flower look much neater.
When the central flower was ready, I switched to circular ones.
I separated the loops for the collar (I got 22 loops), this is for size 48.
You should end up with a square. Separate the loops for the sleeves, sides, and bottom onto additional knitting needles. Knit the second part (let's say the front one, with a large neckline) and sew the side and shoulder parts loop into loop.
Flower petals are knitted in the sleeves (I left 25 loops on the sleeves from the front and back), then 8 rows of 2*2 elastic.
The front and back parts are also lengthened with stockinette stitch by 7 cm, and then the elastic is 2*2 20 rows.
Finally, the collar is knitted with a 2*2 elastic band.
The pullover is ready!
