This model is made from shoe or haberdashery leather with a thickness of 1.4-1.6 mm without lining.
First, let's cut out all the necessary parts of the wallet. To do this, you will need a shoemaker's or breadboard knife, a metal ruler, a silver gel pen and a plastic board on which to cut. The configuration, quantity, and dimensions of parts in millimeters are shown in Fig. 1.
If possible, you can cut out different parts of the wallet from different topographic areas of the skin. So, parts VI and VII are better cut from thinner leather - from the floor (the lower part of the half-skin, where the belly is), and part I is better cut from the saddle part (back).
After cutting, we proceed directly to assembling the product.
1. First, we assemble a unit called a “pocket for coins”: in the slot of part V, using Moment Classic glue, glue a zipper 105 mm long (Fig. 2).
Apply glue to the cut sections of the leather part and the zipper tape, as shown in Fig. 3, wait 5-10 minutes and glue so that the allowances of the zipper tapes protrude beyond the sections of the leather part, as in Fig. 4.
Glue VI to V (ill. 5 and 6). Then, from the front side of the parts, we machine stitch to the edge, connecting the side sections of parts VI and V and stitching the bottom zipper tape (Ill. 7).
Carefully melt the ends of the stitching threads over an open fire, for example with a lighter. The ends of the threads should be melted after completing all the lines.
We glue the protruding section of part VI to the allowances of the zipper tapes as shown in Fig. 8, and machine stitch along the edge along the edges of the parts, stitching the protruding section of part VI and the upper zipper tape (Fig. 9). The result is the front part of the pocket for coins, which makes the pocket more voluminous and prevents coins from spilling out when opening. All that remains is to attach the front part of the pocket to the back part (item III).
Mark with a silver gel pen no. III as shown in Fig. 10, apply glue along the marking lines (Fig. 11), glue the parts and adjust the front part of the pocket, stitching along the edge along the top, side and bottom edges of the front part of the pocket (Fig. 12). The coin pocket is ready.
2. We assemble a unit with pockets for plastic cards. To reduce the thickness of one of the sections IV, use a shoe knife to cut off part of the thickness of the leather at an angle to the surface, as shown in Fig. 13.
We mark the second part III, as shown in Fig. 14, apply glue to III and IV (ill. 15), glue and adjust the lower cut of IV (ill. 16) to the edge. Then we apply glue to the resulting workpiece (III + IV) and to the second part IV as shown in Fig. 16. We glue and adjust the second part IV along the side and bottom cuts, while the side cuts of the first part IV fall under the stitching (ill. 17). The node is ready.
3. We connect the resulting nodes with d. II: mark it (ill. 18), apply glue to the front side of d. II (ill. 19). Next, combining the external sections of the parts, we glue and adjust the pockets (internal vertical sections) on d. II, as shown in Fig. 20. We have the entire inside of the wallet ready.
4. Let's process the strap: when the wallet is filled with banknotes, the strap with the button will hold it in the folded state. On the side of the melon we will spread glue on both sides VII (ill. 21). Let's glue them together (ill. 22). Then, using a semicircular chisel, we carefully trim the ends, giving them an oval shape (Fig. 22), and lay a machine stitch along the perimeter of the strap (Fig. 23).
Now we need a press to install the fittings (Fig. 24). Using punch attachments, we will make two holes in our workpiece with a diameter of 2 and 3 mm at a distance of about 10 mm from the edges (Fig. 25). In the smaller hole we will install the upper part of the button with a diameter of 9 mm (Fig. 26). The press attachments that will be needed for this are also shown in Fig. 26.
On d. I we will punch two holes with diameters of 2 and 3 mm at a distance of 20 mm from the edges. Using the appropriate attachments, install the lower part of the button into the smaller hole (Fig. 27).
The final operation with the press is the connection of d. I with the strap through the existing holes with a diameter of 3 mm using a double-sided holniten with a diameter of 6 mm (Fig. 28). We don’t squeeze it too hard so that at the very end you can turn the strap 180 degrees.
5. The last thing left to do is to connect the outer and inner parts of the wallet to each other: mark d. I as shown in Fig. 29. Apply glue to the sections (Fig. 30), glue and connect the parts with a machine stitch along the perimeter of d. I, laying it to the edge.
The result should look like in Fig. 31.
Note! In the middle of d. I there should be a slight slack relative to d. 2 (Fig. 31) so that the wallet can be easily closed and not open spontaneously.
We unfold the strap into its working position - and the wallet is ready!
Thus, we have one large compartment for bills, two compartments for cards, two pockets for all sorts of papers (their entrance is at the top) and a compartment for small change (Fig. 32).
Beautiful, high-quality and comfortable wallet made of genuine leather It's hard to find one for storing money, and it's so expensive.
Therefore, I decided not to spend money and sew a leather wallet for money from scrap material with my own hands. You can see the result in the photo.
I usually cut off all the tops from worn women's leather boots and store them for later making homemade items from them. It is easy to make shoe mats from genuine leather, sew slippers or a case for any gadget. This time a wallet was sewn from the top.
Selection of sizes and drawings of wallet patterns
First of all, it was necessary to decide on the size of the wallet based on the size of the largest bill, and make patterns from paper. Banknotes of 1000 and 5000 rubles have the same dimensions 69x157 mm. The rest of the dignity is smaller.
Thus, the width of the compartment for paper bills, taking into account their possible number and a seam allowance of 6 mm, should be at least 172 mm. As a result, the size of the wallet was 80x172 mm. Based on these data, patterns were made from thick paper.
After unraveling the seam and removing the inner fur lining, a flat sheet of genuine leather was obtained. To determine if the size of the leather plate was sufficient for making a wallet, the patterns were laid out on it. I was lucky that the sheet of leather from the boot was large enough to not require additional sewing.
How to smooth natural leather
The leather from the top of the boots was wavy in places and there was a general bending of the entire surface of the plate. Therefore, before cutting it was necessary to smooth it out. The easiest and fastest way to perform this operation is to use an iron for ironing clothes.
The plate was placed, flesh side up, on a flat table surface covered with a thick cloth. The skin was covered on top cotton fabric. Using a spray bottle, the fabric was slightly moistened with water.
The iron setting was set to maximum heat. Once the iron was hot, the leather was ironed over the entire surface by applying and lifting the iron without moving it across the plane. The essence of smoothing is to slightly moisturize and press the skin, which leads to its straightening.
After smoothing with an iron, as can be seen in the photo, the waves disappeared from the sheet of leather and it became flat, ready for further work. All that remains is to let it sit for several hours so that the moisture evaporates from the skin and it takes on its natural shape. When moisturized, the skin increases slightly in size.
Marking and cutting leather for a homemade wallet
When the leather plate has dried, you can begin marking it according to the pattern and cutting out the parts for making the wallet.
To mark, you need to lay out the patterns on the surface of the skin and use a ruler to trace them around the perimeter with the power of an alcohol felt-tip pen.
You can cut natural leather with a scalpel or a stationery knife. To do this, you need to firmly press the metal ruler, oriented along the marking lines, and with sufficient force draw the knife blade along it. To prevent the knife from dulling, you need to place a soft material under the skin, for example, corrugated cardboard or several newspapers. If you have never cut skin before, it is better to first practice on an unnecessary area of the plate.
The photo shows the workspace and tools that were needed when cutting leather for a homemade wallet.
How to sew a leather wallet by hand
Since the design of the wallet consists of two sections sewn together, the space between the sections was used to create a pocket for storing plastic cards.
The dimensions of a standard plastic card are 54x86x1 mm. The size of the pocket was chosen based on the possibility of placing up to 6 cards in it and was 60x100 mm, taking into account the seam allowance.
Next, “Moment” glue was applied along the seam marking line on the back side of the leather. Glue is needed only for the convenience of sewing, and in in this case it can be used by anyone, since the leather will be subsequently sewn with threads.
In order for the seam to be sewn by hand with an equal length of stitches, it was marked with a ruler and a felt-tip pen in 5 mm increments.
In order for the needle to easily pass through the skin, it was drilled at the marking points with a mini drill with a drill bit with a diameter of 1 mm. Instead of a drill, you can use an awl or a special drain punch for leather.
You can sew with any thread - twisted linen (requires waxing), polyester (nylon) or lavsan. I chose nylon thread, black. It is elastic, strong, durable and easy to melt, which allows you to securely fasten the ends of the threads in knots. Any needle will do.
I sewed with double thread through one stitch in one direction and back. To prevent the thread from getting tangled, you need to press it with your finger from the side where the needle enters.
The wallet compartment for cards is ready. You can put cards in it and see how they are placed. Over time, the skin will take the desired shape and the cards will be convenient to take out and put back in. If desired, you can make round cutouts on the sides to make it more comfortable.
You need to start stitching by inserting a thread between the folds of the leather and finish with a double stitch with the second end also coming out between the folds of the leather.
At the last step, the knot is smeared with glue and, using a narrow screwdriver blade, tucked into the fold between the skin plates.
The photo shows the appearance of a hand-sewn boot boot women's boot wallet All that remains is to install the fastener button on the valve.
Installing a snap button
The button clasp on the wallet serves not only to secure the flap, but is also an element of decoration. Therefore, a button with a locking ring spring was chosen. It works more smoothly and has relatively large overall dimensions.
One button kit includes four parts, which are shown in the photo. Two of them are fastened using rivets on one of the surfaces to be fastened, and the second pair - on the other.
To install the fastener button, the following tools are required: – a hammer, a punch and accessories – a riveting bit and a support hemisphere. If you don’t have a punch, you can put the leather, for example, on a piece of wood, install the part of the button with sharp edges (top in the photo) in the right place and lightly hit it with a hammer.
The clasp button is installed on the wallet and its operation has been tested. The photo shows a hand-sewn women's wallet. If you wish, to your liking, you can use a felt-tip pen of the desired color to paint over the ends of the leather and apply a design with an electric squeezer or embossing.
This is what a handmade genuine leather wallet looks like, filled with banknotes, plastic cards and small change. As you can see, thanks to the simplicity of the design, any home craftsman can sew such a wallet in a couple of hours.
In the comments to my last master class they asked, what to do with the small change? Where's the zippered pocket? I took into account the wishes - a holder (almost as simple to make), but with a zipper!
You will need:
1. Fabric for the outer part of the holder.
2. Fabric for lining.
3. Fabric for binding.
4. Button closure.
5. Lightning.
6. Doublerin.
7. Volume interlining.
We take a piece of the main fabric, size 20*20 cm. We first seal it with double fabric, then with bulk interlining.
We sew a fastener on both sides of the holder. Be sure to check that the holder closes comfortably. Not very loose, but not tight either (after all, there will still be money, coins, documents, etc. in it). I also sewed decorative leather elements.
The holder will have a zippered pocket on one side and pockets for cards on the other side.
To make a coin pocket, we will need a zipper, a piece of fabric measuring 13*20 cm, 21*20 cm and two pieces 6*3 cm. This can be either the main fabric or the fabric you chose for the lining. I used thick linen and did not thicken it. If you use cotton, it is better to seal it with non-woven fabric so that the pockets keep their shape.
Fold large pieces of fabric in half to get a piece of 6.5*20 cm and 10.5*20 cm.
And we also fold the small pieces that will cover the ends of the zipper in half to make it 3*3 cm.
Iron all the pieces. This is what should happen. The fabric lies on the folds towards the zipper.
First, we sew small pieces on both sides of the zipper at such a distance from each other that there is 20 cm from tip to tip.
We put the fabric (on the side where the fold is) on the zipper, with an overlap of 5 mm and attach it.
Same thing with the second piece.
Cut off the excess piece of zipper. But not exactly along the edge, but a little shorter, so that later there would be no problems when attaching the trim along the edge of the wallet. The tip of the zipper will create extra thickness.
Now let's move on to the fabric for the inside of the wallet. Fabric size 20*52.5 cm.
Bend and iron it as shown in the diagram.
Dotted line - fold the fabric towards you.
Solid line - bend the fabric away from you.
This is what you should end up with:
We sew along the middle, forming compartments for cards. At the top of the seam we make a tack (sew back and forth).
Fold the pocket piece in half and iron it as shown in the photo. This way we get a closed pocket.
We begin to assemble the holder. Below is the main part with a clasp. Piece of lining fabric with pockets for cards and a pocket on top for coins. We sew in a circle.
Now we move on to the binding, which will create a border around the entire perimeter of the wallet and hide all the threads and layers.
Around the perimeter of the wallet is 80 cm + an allowance of 10 cm. I like double binding, so the final size of the binding is 90*5 cm
Cut a piece from one edge at an angle of 45 degrees. Iron at a distance of 5 mm from the edge.
Let's start sewing on the binding. The first seam will be 4-5 cm long.
Fold the binding in half.
We start the line not from the very edge, but by retreating 1-2 cm, so that we can then hide the tip.
Now a few words about how to form corners when sewing on binding. We reach the corner and stop at a distance of 5 mm from the edge. We make a fastening. We bend the binding at an angle of 45 degrees.
And then again at an angle of 45 degrees.
And this time we start the seam from the very edge. We make a bartack at the beginning of the seam.
This is how we form all four corners. The tip of the tape will go into the pocket left at the beginning.
We bend the binding and sew it on the inside with a hidden seam.
Holder is ready!
Good afternoon. Make your own wallet? Leather? With a snake and a coin compartment? Easily! We present to your attention a handmade leather wallet.
To make it you needed:
- zipper and slider
- mesh fabric (for lining)
- leather for the inside
- glue (nairit)
- sewing machine
It all starts with a pattern. We need to cut off the skin for the main part of the wallet.
We thin out the edges using sandpaper or a file. We will tuck them (the edges). We mark the grille (cladding) with chalk. We sew everything with a machine, along with the lining. The seam is approximately 6 mm.
We cut out special inserts from cardboard (for rigidity). Glue them.
We cut out the inner part from cheaper leather. We use split wood.
We stitch together. Then we sew it to the base.
Sew in the zipper (main). We smoothly sheathe it around the entire perimeter. We cut out an internal partition and a pocket from split wood.
We sew it in. It is important to use a thin thread so that knots from machine sewing do not stick out at the top. The skin is very sensitive to these little things.
The wallet is ready! Thank you for your attention!
