A Beginner's Guide to Buying Japanese Natural Sharpening Stones. Stones for sharpening a straight razor Stone for finishing a razor

It must be admitted that I decided to write this article not without hesitation. Their reason is ridiculously simple, and it is this: “As many sharpeners, as many sharpening methods.” It is clear that sharpening a knife is different from sharpening scissors, and both are different from sharpening a bladed razor. Actually, the latter is the subject of my next note, which should be taken as an invitation to discussion. But the discussion is constructive, where there is no place for trolling and arguing until we are hoarse about which of us, the “grinders,” is cooler.

The issue of sharpening razors is not at all easy, and it needs to be approached carefully and carefully. At the same time, I don’t like to cast a shadow on the fence and believe that the problem of sharpening is so important and eternally relevant that it would be wrong to ignore it in the blog. I will try to present the material in such a way that it is understandable to the reader who does not have professional training as a sharpener and is generally encountering such a discussion for the first time. Additional motivation for writing this article came from questions from our customers who note the high quality of the razors. « Art RAZOR» and, at the same time, sometimes they show surprise at our choice of sharpening materials. In fact, many European razor lovers are still confident that the best sharpening of a blade can be achieved exclusively with expensive natural stones!

Razor model " RAVEN" (production " Art RAZOR") on the working surface of the synthetic stone series NANIWA SS(800 grit)

There is one more point. Many users of blade razors have become adept at sharpening their tools on their own, and some even enjoy this process, simultaneously deriving purely practical benefits, i.e. do without paid professional sharpeners. However, in any case, in order to do this work, you need quality stones. Well, and skillful hands, of course :). And if the first is relatively easy to solve with the help of money (usually considerable), then the second is a matter of rather sophisticated skill and motor skills. I think I will also touch on “amateur” problems, but now I want to focus on professional sharpening.

What is it? What are the criteria for professional sharpening? Personally, I distinguish three of them for myself:

The ability to get a high-quality shave right out of the box, without any adjustments or additional tricks;

Stability of sharpening, that is, the razor retains its excellent shaving properties for a long time (at least six months to a year), subject to proper daily use and competent editing by the user himself;

Comfort, “softness” of shaving, when no special effort is required during the procedure.

The listed points can be put in any order, the essence will not change. In fact, it is precisely on these tasks that any sharpener concentrates. But the result is achieved in different ways. Unfortunately, due to the involvement of a fairly wide range of people of varying degrees of training in the discussion, the problem has acquired a large number of myths, prejudices and even outright “sectarianism”; Sometimes these controversial and false stereotypes penetrate into the professional environment.

The main question that causes a conflict of opinions is whether to sharpen with natural stones or synthetics? Let's look at this in more detail. And for this we will make a very small theoretical excursion.

My working set of Japanese synthetic water stones of the professional NANIWA SS series, by grit from left to right: S 400, S 800, S 3000, S 10,000. There is another “step” missing in the picture, 6000 grit, since I use a stone from a different line; This is how it happened historically :)

Sharpening is the formation of the working surface of a cutting tool. In the vast majority of cases, and always in relation to a razor, sharpening is performed mechanically, by removing “extra” metal in the area of ​​the cutting/shaving edge. Sharpeners of blade razors one way or another strive for the so-called fast sharpening. It means that when working on each abrasive material, we get a gain in sharpness, and so we move from coarser-grained abrasives to less coarse-grained ones. Since correct sharpening of both the razor and the knife is carried out exclusively across the cutting edge, a microsaw is formed, which is responsible for the cut. Let me note in passing that significantly higher requirements are placed on the razor’s microsaw, since the hair is cut in one movement, sliding at a certain angle to the surface of the skin (about 15-20° degrees, contrary to the common misconception about 30° due to inattentive reading of specialized hairdressing literature) and at a certain angle (about 25-30° degrees) to the general direction of shaving the area. If this second angle is ignored, then shaving occurs not by cutting, but essentially by scraping; then they talk about straight shaving, which is not very welcome, as it injures the skin and does not use the full potential of the tool.

When the correct geometry of the edge is set already at the very first stages, then in fact, then the sharpener only removes the risks remaining from the previous coarse abrasive, and even more precisely, covers them with new ones, which are much finer. The smaller the marks, the sharper the razor. In theory, everything is extremely simple :).

Almost everyone who sharpens razors is unanimous in the opinion that the following stages should be followed: 1000 grit (sometimes you can skip), 3000 grit, 5000-6000 grit (depending on the composition of the kit from a particular manufacturer), 8000 grit, 10,000 grit, and... further, as they say, to taste; some go further, up to 15,000 and even 18,000 grit, which I personally think is excessive. (In passing, let me note for the uninitiated, to simplify it greatly, that grits are a unit of measurement for abrasive materials that shows how many uniformly distributed and almost identical particles of abrasive fit on a square centimeter of a tool - stones, circles, sandpaper, etc.) Alas, this is the same Grit is not very standardized today, and therefore there are even some comparative tables that bring grits into line with the microns in which roughness is usually measured (a fairly good, albeit cursory, overview of the issue can be found, for example, here:

Roughly speaking, leading manufacturers of sharpening stones are tied to their own internal industrial standards, and they correlate non-linearly with each other. With synthetic stones everything is somewhat simpler and more standardized, although there are certain differences depending on the manufacturer.

As I have already said, many sharpeners of blade razors believe that “real” sharpening must certainly be done on “naturals”, or natural sharpening materials - Japanese hard water stones using the so-called nagura (providing a fine suspension with water; it is the nagurami that sets the sequence of increasing grit), various American “Arkansas”, European or Chinese slates, etc. And there are also stones that are sharpened using oil. Generally speaking, full list of all kinds of stones would make up a rather impressive catalog. Sometimes Japanese stones are simply elevated to cult; their supporters create a whole philosophy around the subject and, in general, as they say, catch Zen. To be fair, it should be noted that before the advent of high-quality synthetic stones, yapnuts gave very good and, as a rule, predictable results... I think sharpening on natural stones has become widespread and highly appreciated due to the fact that many advanced users periodically do not sharpen, but simply sharpen their razors, and this has become a good habit for them at the level of a reflex. In this case, naturalists are a completely acceptable option.

At the other pole are those who generally prefer to form the cutting (shaving) edge of the razor on sandpaper, and then bring the razor’s sharpness to a comfortable state on a pasted belt - leather or fabric, lubricated or rubbed with abrasive paste, in the simplest case GOI paste. I don’t want to dwell on this method in too much detail, because I consider this approach to be amateurish and lead to rapid wear of the razor itself and inevitable distortion of its original geometry. However, for a not-too-demanding user, this is almost the only way to keep the razor in working condition without incurring special costs, without delving into the intricacies of our craft and without the services of a professional. After all, this is how our grandfathers sharpened their razors :).

An example of a razor that has been sharpened correctly, and therefore its original geometry is preserved in excellent condition, despite its very “venerable” age (razor ERIK ANTON BERG, Sweden, Eskilstuna, con. XIX century - beginning XX century

This razor was not so lucky (razor BENGALL, England, Sheffield). In this case, I do not mean damage to the handle, but defects in the blade, which are a direct consequence of systematic unprofessional sharpening, most likely using emery and a pasted belt: sharpening of the blade, significant grinding of the spine and a clear tendency to the so-called. a reverse smile - the bend of the line of the shaving edge towards the butt... But this razor, initially excellent - is almost the same age as the previous one!

What about the notorious mirror-like edge shine? The play of light on the edge is a spectacular thing. Of course, such an effect in combination with a successful hair cutting test, as a rule, indicates a high-quality, solid sharpening. At the same time, the “mirror” is not an end in itself. But the width of the edge is directly related to the ergonomics of use. A tool with a thread edge is easier and faster to sharpen on a clean belt; this sharpening promises to be more durable. But this is just a natural consequence right actions qualified sharpener. The main argument in favor of synthetic stones - an argument that reflects the physical essence - is that at each stage of grit, up to the highest values, it is sharpening that occurs, and not polishing and smoothing. After all, at each stage metal is removed, that is, the edge in the transverse projection becomes sharper. Metal removal provides specularity, because the fresh regular marks left by the abrasive on the steel are very small; With high grit it is not so easy to see them even with a magnifying glass; you need a good microscope.

Shaving edge of the razor " ERIKA" ((production " Art RAZOR") demonstrates our internal sharpening standard.

What happens when using natural stones as the number of grits increases? Up to a certain value of grit (this line, in my experience, lies somewhere around 3000-6000, depending on the brand and quality of the stones), the difference between natural and synthetic is almost invisible, insignificant. There is intensive metal removal (at the micro level, however, synthetic stone still gives a more regular picture), the shaving edge is formed in the “standard” mode. But at a certain stage, natural stone begins to work simply as a flat table with a certain average roughness coefficient, and the soft nagura suspension has practically no abrasive properties in relation to steel. It, of course, is needed for something else, for sliding and protection from peculiar microtraumas of the edge, because the movements of even a very good sharpener are imperfect. So, the metal is no longer removed, and the shaving edge begins to simply to be smoothed, to be more or less well polished. At the same time, the sharpness of the blade also increases, but this is no longer a completely controlled and manageable process, which is closer to art than to technology. With all the ensuing consequences. What happens during burnishing is a microscopic analogue of “hardening”, when the geometry of the cutting edge is adjusted using pressure applied perpendicular to the plane being leveled. This is how a regular scythe is prepared for work; An experienced mower can easily improve the cut of his tool by beating the edge with a hammer on an anvil. As we can see, the physics of the process when working at high grit levels differs significantly between natural and synthetic materials. With micro-hardening it is much more difficult to achieve a mirror-like shine on the edge. However, some sharpeners succeed in this.

In general, today I do not know a fully developed and exhaustive model of the razor sharpening process in the smallest details. The expressed considerations and deep theoretical knowledge of anyone, in fact, are worth nothing without skillful and experienced hands. Sharpening a razor is one of those activities in which a combination of understanding is best demonstrated. theoretical foundations and development of sustainable practical skills. Here practice and the quality of the result act as the measure of things. And of course, each master has his own style, set of techniques and professional “secrets” that cannot be conveyed in simple small talk.

I really don't want to seem categorical. Inevitably, my reasoning will seem controversial to some, this is completely natural. I don't consider myself an infallible guru of the razor sharpening process. But everything I write about here are conclusions drawn based on my own experience, both positive and negative. In addition, almost any user who has purchased our razor can testify to the high quality of sharpening and shaving comfort. And therefore I will allow myself to draw several conclusions, which I formulated primarily for myself and for Club of Free Masters « Art RAZOR» .

Conclusion one:if you need the most predictable result, then it is easier to achieve it using synthetics, especially if you do not have a long-term habit of using natural stones.

Conclusion two:When sharpening a razor, you need to care not only about the immediate suitability of the tool, but also about the duration of the achieved result and the safety of the blade.

Conclusion three (main): You can sharpen in any way and on any stones, if you know how to do it really well! If not, then it is better to turn to a professional and purchase a known high-quality razor, which initially brings a minimum of hassle, worry and work to bring it to perfection. I responsibly declare that razors « Art RAZOR» You can shave straight out of the box. By the way, developing the necessary sharpening skills for everyone inevitably leads to damage to at least one or two razors. This is the harsh truth, it's a journey of trial and error :).

In conclusion, so as not to be considered a boring theorist, I will show how I sharpen myself. This is just a fragment of the video, it does not reflect the entire process, but it shows the nature and intensity of the movements at the final stages of sharpening.

I wish everyone, both professionals and amateur enthusiasts, success in sharpening and am ready, to the best of my ability and knowledge, to continue the conversation about the technology of the razor sharpening process.

Sharpening stones are used with grits of 320, 600, 1500, but sharpening does not reach razor sharpness.

Judging by the 1500 grit stone and the absence of a sharp edge, I assume that this is either a matter of too much pressure on the stone or that the grits are Chinese.

If you have Chinese stones ADAEE or similar, then they should be compared to sandpaper.

Those. The grain size for 320 is M45, 600 is M25, 1500 is M13.

As practice shows, shaving starts from M10-M7 on a hard ligament and M7-M5 on a medium one. Of course, there are talents who can force the M14 to work, but that’s what they are talents for. This is about synthetics.

Tell me, what influences sharpening to razor sharpness the most, what is the most important thing in this matter?

Pressure, pressure and more pressure. Even the thinnest abrasive can bend the edge.

Therefore, the first thing we learn is not to squeeze and remove the burr. Second, turn over what you are sharpening more often; it’s not for nothing that our sharpening heroes spent so much time on turning mechanisms. Well, the third is the selection of abrasive. If the blade does not shave on JiS200 - P3000 - F800, adjust the pressure. And of course all your stones must be aligned.

Is it worth buying a fine-grained stone, such as ACE 3000?

As far as I understand, we are talking about Chinese “ruby” ceramics? If yes, then it’s worth it, there’s no doubt about it. It is sintered aluminum oxide. The abrasive is very cheap if you search for it on Ali or Ebay using the words "3000 ruby ​​Sharpening" ", then it will cost up to 200 rubles with delivery, be sure to check the dimensions so that they are 150*20*5. The whole problem will be to grind it in; the bars most often come crooked. I spent three days on my first one, although I polished it on simple river sand. Apply the grid with a marker; a pencil will not help here. After drawing out the plane, it should be finished using KK F600 powder. As a result, you will get a bar that is enough for you and your children, its production is minimal, and it chews steel well. It’s hard to call it a finish, more like a pre-finish. However, I finish the 50-55hrc kitchen on it, but to be precise, on the second one, which is ground in F1200 powder. Work with it using Vaseline oil from a pharmacy, or better yet, olive oil.

Pasta is a personal choice. I won’t impose it, but if GOI is needed, it’s only for razors; it rips out pieces from stainless steel and polishes out flaws. Chromium oxide causes the metal to “flow”, as does jasper and baicalite, and on free grain this is not always good. If you want a paste, then try aluminum or iron oxide on a hard lap (on the same “ruby” ceramics). When your hand learns to regulate the pressure, you can use leather or a sling, but it’s better not to abuse it.

“It became obvious that for many people there is too much information there. And although the table of the grain size of sharpening stones (gritness of abrasives) given in it will probably be useful to everyone, listing the basic concepts used in sharpening knives, the properties of abrasives and other details is often unnecessary. Perhaps , having read such a comprehensive article, not everyone will find the answer to a simple question: what grit is needed to sharpen his knife? Therefore, I will try to briefly answer what kind of grit sharpening stones are needed for sharpening a knife, in particular a kitchen knife, and how to choose the right stones for sharpening.

Type of abrasive grain in the whetstone

Due to the different properties of abrasives, it is important to choose the right type of abrasive for comfortable and quick sharpening. Diamond or cubic boron nitride (CBN) effectively cuts metal of any hardness. They even cut the zirconium dioxide from which they are made Ceramic knives. Therefore, diamond and CBN stones can be used to sharpen knives of any type, as well as cutters of metal-cutting machines and pobedite drills. Obviously, such sharpening stones must be available, at least for some specific purposes (a drill is dull, it’s faster to sharpen it than to go to the store for a new one). However, due to the excessive sharpness of diamond, the cutting edge formed by a diamond bar will have a distinct notch, reducing its strength. Accordingly, a knife sharpened with diamonds will dull faster than the same knife sharpened to the same sharpness with a less aggressive abrasive. Therefore, if you have to sharpen not only ceramic knives and knives made of powder steels, it is better to sharpen with something else.

The most versatile type of abrasive is silicon carbide. It copes well with hard steels and does not become dull, gradually chipping with sharp edges. The cheapest type of abrasive is aluminum oxide (corundum), but as it wears it rounds and loses its sharpness.

In order to sharpen with cheap abrasives without losing speed, the Japanese make stones from aluminum oxide on a soft, weak bond. The abrasive grains are weakly retained in them and quickly fall out without having time to become dull. Instead of worn-out grains, new ones quickly come into play, the stone is renewed without losing efficiency...

But also quickly wearing down

As a result, despite the cheapness of the abrasive, sharpening on soft aluminum oxide stones can be a more expensive pleasure than sharpening on silicon carbide stones.

However, if you only have to sharpen stainless kitchen knives (which have a relatively low hardness), you can reduce the cost of the process by using not too soft aluminum oxide sharpening stones, for example, Russian ones with hardness C, or European ones with hardness M (English).

Selecting the hardness of the whetstone

Since when sharpening a knife, the abrasive stone (block) is also ground down, for comfortable and quick sharpening it is important to choose the correct hardness whetstone. Soft stones work faster, but also wear out quickly. The higher the hardness of the knife being sharpened and the wider the sharpening chamfer, the greater the need for rapid renewal of the stone. Classic Japanese knives are made with a single-sided sharpening and a wide bevel made of very hard steel. Soft Japanese sharpening stones are designed specifically for sharpening them. For softer European-style knives (particularly the cheaper Tramontina series), sharpening stones with a harder bond are better suited. With the same efficiency on these knives, they will wear out less. For European knives made of hard steels, which are not inferior in hardness to Japanese ones, but have a narrow chamfer, an average hardness of the binder is needed.

Choosing the hardness of a sharpening stone is often problematic due to the fact that the manufacturer does not indicate it. In this case, you either have to look for reviews from those who have experience using specific sharpening stones (and hope that these people are competent in this matter), or select the right stone by trial and error.

Selecting a whetstone based on the type of coolant

In addition to the hardness of the bond and the type of abrasive, you need to choose the right sharpening stone according to the type of lubricating fluid (coolant). Water stones work faster due to the released suspension (a suspension of water and colored abrasive). However, quickly rusting knives, when using such stones, can become covered with rust right during the sharpening process. Oil stones do not create this problem. But they work slower (often the same stone can be used either with water or with oil, but usually, if the stone is started to be used with oil, it will no longer work with water, like a real water maker). Oil stones are more versatile. If they are also hard like aluminum ceramics, they are very good for processing stainless steel knives (aluminum ceramics are most effective for sharpening stainless knives). Due to the versatility of oil stones, it may make sense to sacrifice sharpening speed in favor of versatility and reducing the number of stones (having oil stones, you don’t have to buy a set of fast water sharpeners for sharpening stainless steel, using the same set for all knives).

Choosing the grit of a whetstone for sharpening a knife

In general, for kitchen knives it is enough to finish sharpening on stones with a grain size of 10 microns (1500 grit according to the Japanese system, 600 grit according to FEPA-F). Although classic Japanese knives, which have very small sharpening angles and are made of brittle steel, and therefore prone to chipping, are best adjusted to 3000 grit (5 microns, F1000). If you sharpen a Japanese knife more roughly, the relatively large teeth on the cutting edge resulting from sharpening will cling more strongly, cut more aggressively, but also break off faster, dulling the knife.

For soft European knives, on the contrary, sharpening up to 3000 grit will be unnecessary, since the edge becomes very thin and on soft steel it quickly wraps like foil and is smoothed. Larger teeth are more durable. However, too large ones will not give the desired spiciness. We need to find a middle ground. Practice has shown that exactly 1500 grit is good result. The knife begins to cut tomatoes at any angle, even tangentially. So, he doesn’t have any problems with any products.

Having figured out what grit you should finish sharpening your kitchen knife with, it’s time to figure out what grit you should start with.

Some people recommend starting with the coarsest stones. There are many instructions on the Internet that state that you need to start sharpening with a stone of 120 grit, or something like that, and gradually move on to finer-grained stones. However, this method is good not so much for sharpening as for destroying the knife. The coarse grain removes metal fairly quickly. This is good if the knife is so damaged that it needs to be repaired. However, just because it doesn't cut office paper well (the paper cut test is often used to test sharpness), that doesn't mean it needs a rough grind. If the knife has already been sharpened once and has no damage, there is no need to sharpen it with a stone coarser than 240 grit (Russian M63, FEPA-F230), unless you want to soon have only the handle left of the knife. Moreover, even 240 grit is often too rough. Good kitchen knives have a fine blade (the thickness of the blade before the sharpening chamfer begins), on the order of half a millimeter. In order to return them to the desired sharpness, it may be enough to immediately start with a 1500 grit stone.

I specially made a video on this topic, using a knife and a stone, the characteristics of which are publicly available and known to many.

For classic Japanese knives with their small angles and brittle steel, the Japanese themselves recommend starting sharpening with 400 grit (Russian M40, FEPA-F320) to avoid chipping. But, since the Japanese do not wait until the knife becomes extremely dull, they usually start sharpening with 1000 grit (grit approximately between Russian M20 and M14, FEPA-F 400-500).

In general, what grit stone to start sharpening with is an individual question. This depends not only on the degree of bluntness, but also on the width of the chamfer and the brittleness of the steel. The larger the chamfer and the stronger the bluntness, the coarser the starting stone should be to reduce time costs. The more fragile the knife, the “thinner” the starting stone should be to avoid chipping.

As a result, it turns out that to sharpen a European kitchen knife you need stones of 240, 400, 800, 1500 grit. For classic Japanese you need 400, 800, 1500, 3000 grit. The Japanese themselves often use a reduced set, reduced by 1 stone: 400, 1000, 3000. As a result, less space is needed for the stones, the whole set is somewhat cheaper, but sharpening takes a little more time. For a Japanese knife of the European type, produced specifically for Europe, depending on the specific models, the best option may be either a set of 240-1500 grit or a set of 400-3000 grit. In many cases, a set of 240, 400, 800, 1500, 3000 grit is good for them.

From my statements about the sufficiency of 1500 or 3000 grit, it becomes unclear for what purpose finer-grained stones are produced. Some “Internet teachers,” apparently believing that since stones exist, they must be used, insist that a kitchen knife needs to be sharpened down to 30,000 grit stones.

But let's figure it out, do you need it, even if the companies that produce these stones claim that you don't need it? The Suehiro company, which produces stones of 30,000 grit, claims that higher than 1500 is not required for a kitchen knife. Hoji Hattori, president of the Masahiro company, in this video, referring to classic Japanese knives, says that sharpening above 3000 grit is not required for them either.

Of course, for microsurgery, where ciliates have to be dissected, stones of 30,000 can be useful. 15,000 grit stones can be useful for sharpening razors. But on a knife, chisel or plane, no one will notice the difference between 15,000 and 8,000 (2 times less grain). There are, of course, people who claim that they notice the difference between 8,000 and 15,000. But I think this is the result of self-hypnosis (if not deception). Because in theory there should be a difference, they want to believe that they feel it.

The 8000 grit stone gives a nice clean mirror. Such a stone is needed either for decorative purposes, or to give maximum sharpness to high-hardness tools that work on hard materials (for example, chisels). No person will notice the difference between 3000 grit and 8000 grit for any product. Accordingly, kitchen knives do not require stones with a grit value higher than 3000. However, if the knife is hard, you can add a small amount of sharpness to it by sharpening it on a stone of 5000 - 6000 grit. It’s possible even 8,000 - 10,000. But this is not so much for sharpness, but for a decorative effect. After 8,000 or 10,000 grit, cutting efficiency may decrease due to the smoothing of the teeth on the cutting edge. Some people, in order to get a mirror chamfer, but not lose cutting efficiency, after sharpening at 8000, sharpen the stone with 5000 or 3000 grit, slightly increasing the sharpening angle. Thus, the main part of the chamfer on the knife remains mirror-like, and aggressive teeth appear at the very edge. All this “dancing with tambourines” naturally takes a lot of time. And, in addition, a lot of money, because the higher the grain size of the stone, the more expensive it is (more overhead costs for crushing, sifting, preventing clumping, obtaining uniformity, etc.).

And now it’s worth asking yourself the question, are sharpening stones with a grit above 3000 necessary?

If you sharpen just to cut, you don't need such stones. If you enjoy the process, you don't mind the money, and you sometimes have time to meditate on the sharpening process - why not? It is healthier for your health to spend $400 on a 30,000 grit sharpening stone than to drink it.

But before you think about buying expensive fine-grained stones, get a basic set from 240 to 3000 grit (possibly 120 grit in case of a damaged knife). Over time, it will become clear to you whether you are ready to spend time on finer sharpening, or whether there is not enough time even for the set that is already in stock.

Abrasive pastes for sharpening knives

Abrasive pastes on leather, felt and other materials are not needed to sharpen a knife. The purpose of the pastes is to polish the surface. They don't add any spice. Often they even lick the teeth, making the knife duller. With careful control, paste on hard, smooth leather can compensate for the lack of fine-grained stone (around 8000 grit). But this replacement will not be effective and is justified only if it is impossible to purchase it. If there is a stone, the paste is not needed for sharpening at all. For surface polishing only.

Sometimes on the Internet you can find videos in which people quickly sharpen knives on leather with paste and, thereby, return their sharpness. But this sharpness is fleeting, as it appears mainly due to pulling out the burr. As soon as the hangnail is crushed (and this happens very quickly), it disappears. This means there is no point in sharpening with paste.

You can often see people straightening razors on their skin...

But, firstly, they edit the skin without paste, and secondly, a razor is not a knife. It is important for a razor to not have teeth so that it does not cause irritation. And editing the skin just smoothes out the teeth and removes any remaining burr, making the razor less aggressive. At the same time, they “pull back” the razor with the skin, just as they “pull back” the braid with a hammer. But for a knife, loss of aggressiveness is not necessary, just as drawing is not needed, since the drawn edge becomes thin, like foil, and quickly wrinkles, dulling the knife.

You can polish the knife with paste after sharpening. But it will cut worse than before the paste. You can remove the burr on the skin after fine-grained stones. But on the skin without paste, and with just a few movements, so as not to overdo it and start pulling out the metal. But just for sharpening, paste is not needed. Just to add more shine.

What specific sharpening stones are best to choose for sharpening?

There is no definite answer here, since it depends on what knives you sharpen. If it's inexpensive, you can look for Russian bars made of aluminum oxide, or even better, silicon carbide (more universal), 120-3000 grit. Then you can compare with the price of Chinese bars Taidea and YJSHARP on Aliexpress. I have not used the mentioned Chinese sharpening stones, but I have seen many positive reviews about them. Judging by the reviews, Chinese corundum bars are less salted than Russian corundum bars. Above 3000 grit you can take Taidea or YJSHARP, but personally I prefer natural stones. I don't like to soak a bunch of rocks, and natural rocks generally don't require pre-soaking.

Inexpensive natural stones can be purchased on Aliexpress.

If price doesn't matter, you can just take the Naniwa SuperStone kit and not have to wonder what it costs.

To regularly maintain working sharpness, you need a stone of approximately 1500-3000 grit. It must work without soaking in order for it to be as convenient to use as a musat. Spyderco Fine (diamond powder, boron carbide, aluminum oxide or, in extreme cases, silicon carbide, it needs to knock down the gloss from the grinder), White Hard Arkansas (lapped to about 1500 grit), Chinese “Red Ruby” and Chinese slates for 2000-3000 grit.

Trying to replace the whetstone with musat will not give long-term results. After several adjustments with musat, the knife will still have to be sharpened normally, starting with relatively coarse stones. And when using a sharpening stone of 1500-3000 grit, the chamfer is completely worked out, and coarser sharpening is not required.

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