Water-based two-component polyurethane varnishes for ABS and PVC plastics PaliPlast UR- are industrial paint and varnish materials water-based with excellent atmospheric mechanical and chemical resistance.
PaliPlast UR 5030 lacquer- high gloss two-component water-based polyurethane varnish for plastic.
PaliChem CA 7040 cross- a universal hardener for water-based polyurethane enamels with high chemical and mechanical resistance, a highly viscous transparent solution without odor and foreign inclusions.
Scope and performance properties
Plastic varnish is used for painting ABS and PVC products in industrial environments where special attention is paid to the gloss of the coating or where a protective paint coating is required. The varnish protects products from abrasion and scratches, from the influence of the external environment, and is resistant to detergents.
Decorative properties
Polyurethane varnish on plastic is characterized by exceptional transparency and good flow, which allows you to obtain paint coatings with high-quality decorative properties. The varnish is widely used for multilayer coatings with optical effects; it improves and stabilizes color transmission.
Specifications
Dry residue 35% by weight Density (spec. weight) 1.04 kg/liter Viscosity (DIN 4 at 20 °C) 80-120 sec Consumption 100-120 ml/m² Wet film stability up to 120 µm Gloss level 5-90 y .e. Thinner Water Hazard class NoPainting and technological properties
Varnish for plastic PaliPlast UR 3030 lacquer It is two-component and requires preparation before painting the plastic. Immediately before application, a hardener for glossy varnishes is added to the water-based varnish. PaliChem CA 7040 cross: 20% by weight. The shelf life of the resulting mixture is 2-4 hours. The varnish is applied by spraying and drying can be done at room temperature.
Water-based varnish on plastic is environmentally friendly. There is no smell when applied and dried; the varnish is diluted with water.
Unfortunately, choosing a varnish, as well as searching for the chosen brand, is a rather labor-intensive and expensive process.
To begin with, the opinions of polymer workers regarding varnish are divided into two opposing camps: some prefer to work only with specialized varnishes from plastic manufacturing companies; the latter are ready to try varnishes used for decoupage, furniture, parquet and floors, automobile, yacht varnishes and the assortment offered by art and stationery stores.
But even if you are not ready to experiment, and would prefer to purchase a specialized varnish intended for use on plastic, be prepared for the fact that your choice may well disappoint you. Unfortunately, at the moment, the situation in the market for “plastic” varnishes is such that it is impossible to say that any one (or several) varnishes will suit you perfectly, and you will buy what suits you. Practice shows that the same varnish behaves differently on different products, from different craftsmen. So, anyway, I think you'll have to do some experimenting.
From my own experience, I can say that there was one varnish that personally suited me in all respects, it was Fimo mineral-based varnish. Why was it? Because the varnish manufacturer is Eberhard Faber, discontinued its production. This company also has another varnish, but it is water-based, and the result of varnishing with this varnish does not make me happy at all. The coating is fragile, feels like rubber to the touch, and at the slightest damage it can be easily removed from the surface. Gives a slight yellow tint to white and light-colored items.
Drawing conclusions from the material that I read about Studio varnishes, I can outline their main disadvantages:
The varnish foams a lot and leaves bubbles on the surface, so you need to varnish very carefully and slowly,
Very liquid, leaves a super-thin layer, so if you want to achieve a “glass” effect, you need to apply a lot of layers of varnish,
Sticks to toothpicks, i.e. adhesion to wood is stronger than to plastic; as a result, when you try to remove a toothpick, it may break off (break) or the layer of varnish around the toothpick may be damaged.
Nevertheless, many craftsmen successfully use Studio varnishes and are very satisfied with them.
For example, Elena’s opinion “shimshoni”:
“I can write my feelings. Now I only work with it, both matte and glossy.
It lays down smoothly, without bubbles. Just don't shake the jar!! You need to stir it a little with a brush before applying, and you can use it.
Glossy Studio is thicker and applies in a thick layer. Dries with an excellent bright gloss.
For the best result, the first layer of any varnish should be applied very thinly, then add two more.
To prevent the toothpick from sticking, you don’t need to smear it with varnish! ;) And wipe off the sliding droplets if you applied a lot of varnish. In general, it is better to apply less of any varnish rather than more, so as not to wipe off the drops. And you can cover it with the next layer.
I liked Studio more than Future Polish, which applies perfectly to round beads, but does not apply well to flat items, often with bubbles. The studio never gave me bubbles on either flat or round beads.”
I’ll also tell you my impressions about Studio.
Gloss varnish
It was bubbling for me. Whatever the brush, even if you don’t chat or breathe on it at all. It was easier with small items, but with large items, such as cigarette cases, it was simply impossible to cover them smoothly. Everything was sanded, polished and degreased.
But it was ideal for varnishing beads, i.e. the method where the brush is not involved. Two coats and everything shines like glass. I usually don’t dip toothpicks in varnish, so I don’t know about sticking :)
A thick layer cannot be applied. Especially if the jar is fresh. When thick layers dried, it sometimes cracked. Unfortunately there are no photos to show. Also, if you apply a thick layer unevenly, then everything will dry out :) That is. if in one place the varnish layer was a little thicker than in others, this will be noticeable on the dried product - it will seem that there is additional layering. Again, this is important in large products - in small ones it is not so critical.
Matt Studio
In the end, I used it like a glossy one :) Only there are more layers, but it is easier to apply than a glossy one. I have not had any cases of cracking. But it still doesn’t provide ideal gloss.
In a word, Studio is a varnish that absolutely cannot be leveled. The bubbles do not burst, the layer is uneven - how you applied it is how it will look. If the surface had any imperfections, it will not hide them, but will emphasize them. Often, after varnishing, I noticed flaws in products, although they were invisible when uncoated. Matt lacquer more wear-resistant than glossy. With heavy wear (again, we're talking about cigarette cases that dangle in all pockets and always fall), the glossy varnish often chipped. It is the varnish, not together with the plastic.
Regarding application to hot products. Here you need to be very careful, since the varnish dries very quickly, almost instantly, and there is a possibility that you simply will not have time to apply a full layer of varnish to the entire product. Then the “junction” of the varnish that has already dried and that which was applied slightly later will be noticeable.
And I’ll also add to the types of varnishes. Especially for plastic, there is also a glossy varnish Schmuck-Lack from Viva Decor (Germany) . Water based. It’s worth looking for it in those places where Pardo plastic, also from Viva Decor, is sold.
Here in Kyiv this is the “Artist’s Shop” store, i.e. it can be in all Chernaya Rechka stores.
Like this:
The label says that it is intended specifically for varnishing jewelry made from polymer clay.
It is thicker than studio, it sticks very strongly to toothpicks (it was after this varnish that I stopped dipping them into varnish at all :) It gives a dense glossy film. It does not peel, does not come off - in general it is more stable than the studio, in my opinion.
Personally, I like it better in almost everything - it bubbles much less and is easier to apply. There is only one caveat: it smells like rotten fish to me :) But, in my opinion, it’s just me who thinks so and you quickly get used to the smell) I’ve been using it for about 4 months and so far I’m happy with everything.
By the way, I also baked with it, and everything was fine.
Selection of varnish that is not intended for plastic.
Now let's talk about cases when you do not buy a specialized varnish intended for plastic, but through trial and error you select some other varnish that was not originally intended for plastic.
Let's start with what varnishes should not be used to coat plastic.
1. Nail polish. Although beginners often use nail polish - due to the fact that the desired polish has not yet been found, and you really want to try to complete the finished product - still try to be patient. Even if you buy nail polishes that adhere very well to plastic (according to reviews), but are expensive. Simple logic - how quickly does the polish on your nails peel off? Even if it’s expensive and of high quality. And it’s not even a matter of speed, but the fact that it’s “peeling off.” It will be the same on plastic. Nail polish is not meant to last. Plus, after some time, such varnish may well turn yellow or begin to stick. Trust the opinion of experienced craftsmen and never cover your products with nail polish.
2. Acrylic varnishes for artwork. You can find such varnishes in art and stationery stores. Moreover, a sales consultant can tell you that such a varnish is perfect for plastics. Don't believe it. For the most part, such varnishes will not dry at all on your plastic product. And if they dry out, the bead may be sticky or become so over time.
3. I often came across advice online not to use alcohol-based (or aldehyde) varnishes for plastics. Search engines do not provide information on aldehyde varnishes; they say there are only phenolic-aldehyde ones. Unfortunately, I’m not strong in chemistry, so I couldn’t figure out what exactly in these varnishes could harm the plastic. The only disadvantages of such varnishes were their fragility and the ability to darken in the light, which in itself already indicates their inapplicability for plastic jewelry. Here is a description from the Great Soviet Encyclopedia; if any of the readers can explain anything about phenolic varnishes, I would be very grateful.
Now about what kind of varnishes you need to buy.
It is best to ask a hardware store for furniture varnish, or better for parquet, water-based acrylic polyurethane (acrylic-polyurethane). Be sure to make sure that it does not contain latex - it is not friendly with plastic. In addition, make sure that the composition contains a UV filter - then your varnish will not turn yellow over time.
Be prepared that sellers in hardware stores have not even heard of any acrylic-polyurethane varnishes, and will even tell you that such varnishes do not exist in nature. Don't be upset and go to another store. These sellers use the Russian varnish classification system, which does not include acrylic-polyurethane or polyurethane-acrylic. The chemical Russian classification of bases for varnishes can be found here, and the foreign classification - here.
Try to place an order for the varnish you need in some large store. Remember, searching for “your” varnish often takes a lot of nerves, money, effort and time. Patience and good luck with this.
There are many varnishes, and also more opinions regarding their compatibility with plastic. I read a lot of conflicting information on this topic, and I can say that I was incredibly confused, since the same polish often had completely opposite reviews. Therefore, I will list only those varnishes that were tested by polymer craftswomen in practice, and which received the majority of positive responses.
1. Varathane Company. VARATHANE CRYSTAL CLEAR WATERBONE DIAMOND WOOD FINISH . This varnish is considered one of the best, tested by generations of foreign masters. Just don’t get confused - the name should be exactly like that - word for word, because Varathane has many other varnishes, it’s easy to get confused. At one time, for lack of a better one, I bought an oil-based varnish from this company - it did not suit me. My notes on this matter are here...
Characteristics: Water based; three types of gloss: glossy, matte, semi-matte; Drying time from the manufacturer is 1 hour “touch-free”.
From the description: “Water-based varnish coating for wooden interior surfaces with a diamond shine. Gives wooden furniture and interior items a beautiful shine for many years, protecting them from wear. Advantages: colorless, non-yellowing, minimal odor, waterproof.”
2. S. C. Johnson Company. Varnish FUTURE FLOOR FINISH. Renamed Pledge® with Future® Shine
The varnish is the same level as in point 1. B different countries known under different brands: “Parket Plus”, “Klear”, “Krystal Klear” or “Johnson’s One and All”, “Klir”. Here is information on varnishes and its analogues in English, but if you follow the link “Future in Russia”, you can read the information in Russian. They say that this varnish is even more difficult to buy in Russia than Varatan, so if anyone is interested, look, on the same website there is a form for ordering via the Internet from Russia, with advance payment by WM or YandexMoney.
Characteristics: water base, acrylic lacquer. Touch dry in 20-30 minutes. It is recommended to wait 8 hours between coats.
Characteristics: water-soluble, polyurethane base, the layer dries in 2 hours, you can put many layers, and then there will be an almost glass effect. Complete drying in 18 to 24 hours.
4.Dufa Meffert AG, Germany, AQUA - PARKETTLACK varnish. Colorless (transparent), forming a glossy or semi-gloss finish. Russian website of the manufacturer.
Characteristics: drying - to apply the next layer - 1 hour at a temperature of +15 to +25 C. Water soluble. 24 months storage.
6.BonaTech Mega - parquet varnish, polyurethane, water-based. Marina-kotliar really praises this varnish. It dries quickly, but is completely dry within a day. Liquid, convenient to use for dipping varnishing.
7. Manufacturer AN Synteko, Sweden, varnish SADOLIN SYNTEKO PRO 20 (semi-matte), SADOLIN SYNTEKO PRO 90 (glossy) - I've seen only positive reviews for this polish online.
From the description: - one-component water-soluble polyurethane-acrylic varnishes that provide high-quality appearance and high strength. Used on parquet and wooden floors in living rooms, bedrooms, kitchens, hallways, and on stairs. Can also be used on untreated cork and other wood products. Technical data: binder polyurethane-acrylic varnish.”
8. Tikkurila company.
ASSA varnish and KIVA varnish - acrylate varnish on a polyurethane basis. Does not turn yellow.
Please note that Tikkurila Yassya comes in two types - PanelYassya (red label) and ParquettiYassya (green label), so for plastic you need the one that is ParkettiYassya.
UNIKA super varnish - urethane-alkyd, does not turn yellow, can be removed with white spirit.
Review: “My alkyd-polyurethane varnish, Tikkurila, passed an 8-month test! It doesn’t stick, doesn’t peel, and generally behaves decently :) It is cheaper than acrylic-polyurethane, and is sold in small jars, and also gives a smooth glass surface, i.e. very shiny. The downside is that the white beads turn yellow and take about 5 hours to dry, and it’s difficult to wash the tassels because they contain white spirit.”
From the description: “High quality acrylic varnish. Used for coating paints with a metallic effect, etc., to create a protective layer on any painted surfaces. It has excellent shine, durability, and increased resistance to atmospheric and mechanical influences and aggressive environments.”
10. Varnish produced by Yaroslavl Paints PF 283 (pentaphthalic) for wood and metal, high-gloss , alkyd. Composition: alkyd resin, solvents, drier. Drying time for each layer is 36 hours.
I used this polish myself for a while. Gives a beautiful glossy finish that is durable. Disadvantages: it takes a very long time to dry - 1 layer takes 36 hours, and then for a long time the beads seem a little wet to the touch; when applied, produces foam, yellows white and light colors, has a strong pungent odor.
11.Made by MAIMERI (Italy), varnish “IDEA” Decoupage. Glassy topcoat varnish water-based for decoupage.
From the description: “Forms a glassy film that is resistant to scratches, abrasive wear and external influences. Easy to use. Perfectly protects and gives exceptional water resistance to the decorated surface.For best result Apply in several thin layers with intermediate drying. After drying, it forms a crystal clear and colorless film with a “wet” glassy sheen. leaves no brush marks. Irreversible."
12. DARWI, Belgium, DARWI VERNIS varnish - clear nail polish, mineral based. The description on the websites of stores selling this varnish says that it is suitable for all surfaces, as well as for products “of our own production, for example Fimo”. Solvent - alcohol. Quite popular today in the “polymer” world, many call it a completely worthy substitute for the mineral Fimo. There's a little discussion here.
And a small “but”: it does not have sufficient plasticity, i.e. on very thin parts, if you bend them slightly, the varnish cracks into a fine, fine mesh.
“The drying time before the first contact is written on the jar: 4 hours. In fact, a little more. About 6-8 hours. Well, complete drying takes a day.
I liked the beads coated with medium the most.
They are the most shiny. Well, in general, like glass.” - “bopoha” opinion, taken from here.
14. Aqua-varnish parquet “POLY-R” : glossy, silky matte. Base: Acrylic-urethane copolymer.
One-component, water-borne, quick-drying clear varnishes for interior use. Used for protective and decorative coating of parquet under normal operating load, as well as for processing furniture and other wood products.
After drying, the varnishes form a hard transparent film that is resistant to periodic exposure to water and is highly wear-resistant. It dries touch-sensitive in 20-30 minutes, wait 4-6 hours between coats, and completely dry in 12-14 hours.
“There are hard varnishes, for example Poly-R, with a giraffe on a green background - it has a hard surface, I even polished it with fine sandpaper, then varnish again, then polish again. The layer is ideal, glassy, hard. BUT! upon impact or subsequent drilling it may chip - this has happened. You are right, indeed, it turns yellow, and the more layers, the stronger it is. It’s not suitable for white and blue things. But for the rest (black-brown-red-yellow) it’s good. The main thing is not to make a mistake - the giraffe should be on a GREEN background. This is a water-based acrylic parquet varnish. And don’t believe the sellers that this doesn’t happen. I personally used a whole jar and would have bought more, but here in Moscow it disappeared without a trace. I especially liked the fact that it can be sanded and reapplied. The layer turns out very beautiful"
15. PearlEx Varnish by Jacqard - suitable for those who use pigments, it keeps the pigments well from spreading the design, can also be used as a regular topcoat. Water based. Can be used on paper, clay, metal, wood or plastic and can be easily cleaned with water.
Diamongd Glaze by JudiKins - giving a glassy coating. Can be mixed with dye-based paints, watercolors, perlex pigments, etc. More details in English
Lisa Pavelka's Magic Glos UV curing Glaze - essentially a resin and hardens into a thick glassy layer under an ultraviolet lamp. More details in English.
The last two are similar to each other, only Pavelka Varnish allows you to create a thicker layer. They fit on any surface - paint, glitter, embossing, natural flowers, etc.
A few conclusions about varnishes.
Mineral-based varnishes do not adhere well to a wet surface, most have a strong pungent odor, often take a long time to dry, but at the same time they create a stronger coating than water-based varnishes.
Water-based varnishes have almost no odor, dry faster (most often), but do not adhere well to oily surfaces, it happens that they swell in a humid environment, and the coating turns out to be elastic, as if rubber, and if the layer is slightly damaged, it can be removed like a film from the entire surface. Here is a situation described here, as an example. However, if you apply a very thin layer of varnish, you most likely will not notice any problems with it. You also need to remember to thoroughly dry the beads coated with water-based varnish. For a day, or better yet two, do not touch or allow water to enter.
Water-based varnish has the advantage that if it thickens, it can be easily diluted with water to the desired consistency. Here, for example, there is a post about how to dilute Sculpey Glaze Gloss. If the “mineral” varnish thickens, you need to dilute it with solvents with great care, because some of them react with plastic. For example, I diluted Fimo “mineral” varnish with medical alcohol. Be sure to read the instructions for the varnish - how it is diluted, and then try to apply a small amount on an unnecessary piece of plastic, and watch for a while to see if there is a reaction.
Note: There is another option for varnishing plastic products - epoxy. But this is more of a topic for new article, because there is a lot of information on epoxy. Here I will only say that finding the right epoxy is perhaps even more difficult than finding the right varnish. But the surface coated with epoxy turns out to be perfectly “glassy” and very durable.
Methods of varnishing plastic products.
Note: do not forget to degrease your plastic product before varnishing, especially if you are going to use water-based varnish. To degrease, you can wash the beads in warm water and soap, or wipe the surface with a cotton swab and alcohol.
1. Varnishing by dipping.
To do this, put a bead on a toothpick or needle (knitting needle) and dip it in varnish. Take it out and rotate the toothpick with the bead around its axis for a while, thereby allowing the excess varnish to drain and distributing the varnish evenly over the surface. Stick a toothpick into a foam sponge or crumpled foil. After a few minutes, a drop of drained varnish will form on the bead; it must be removed with a soft brush.
But I myself don’t like this method and don’t use it, because... It’s very difficult for me to catch the right moment to remove a drop - if you remove it too early, a drop (or influx) will still form; if you are late, the place where you removed the drop may not be leveled, because The varnish has already thickened.
It is much easier for me to varnish products using the second method:
But the choice of brush plays an important role. To ensure that no grooves (tracks) of varnish remain on the surface of the product, you need to choose a soft brush. Which one? Often, masters advise using a soft synthetic brush or a “squirrel” or “kolinsky” brush. You can also use a soft nail polish brush.
Note: if your brush is fluffy, then there is a lot of air inside the bristles, and because of this, bubbles may appear on the surface to be varnished. In order to “drive” the air out of the bristles of the brush, it is advised to take a little varnish on the brush and use your fingers (don’t forget to wear gloves) to squeeze the brush for a while. Also, to prevent a lot of air from accumulating inside the bristles, it is recommended to purchase flat brushes rather than round ones.
3. There is another option for varnishing beads- it applies to cases when you have varnish in an aerosol can. At first, this method of varnishing may seem inconvenient to you (as it was in my case), but with a little practice, you will understand that this method is sometimes literally irreplaceable, for example, when you need to varnish a complex surface, with many recesses and protrusions, or when you varnish a painted or tinted surface, etc.
So, varnishing a product with varnish from an aerosol can is very simple: slowly rotate the bead placed on a toothpick with one hand, hold the can in the other, and spray the varnish onto the bead. If you have a flat product, for example, a pendant, then you can put it on a bag or paper, spray it with varnish, wait until it dries, turn it over, and repeat the spraying procedure for the back of the pendant.
The appearance of your coating will depend on the distance from the can to the bead and on the intensity of the varnish jet: if you keep the aerosol away and spray the varnish quite a bit, the surface will have a matte thin coating; If you hold the can closer and make the stream of varnish intense, you will get a smooth, glossy surface. Just do not hold the aerosol close to the bead - then the pressure of the varnish jet will be very strong, and foam with air bubbles may form on the surface. Determine the exact distance you need experimentally, because... There are different types of aerosol varnishes, and therefore the effects are different. What I told you is based on the practice of using MOTIP car varnish.
After your product has completely dried, you need to remove it from the toothpick. Remove with a twisting motion, carefully, otherwise the layer of varnish around the toothpick may be damaged, or the toothpick itself may break and remain inside the bead.
Now let's talk about the problems and difficulties that you may encounter in the process of varnishing plastic products.
1. Your beads become sticky immediately after varnishing or after some time. This can happen even after several months, so a varnish can be considered “tested” after at least six months.
The cause of the sticky surface can be either “inappropriate” varnish or underbaked plastic. Those. If you didn't bake your piece long enough, the plastic didn't cure and any remaining plasticizer in the plastic reacted with the varnish. Therefore, the first thing, if you find that your beads have become sticky, you can try to bake them a second time - yes, yes, just like that, bake right along with the varnish...... at 110-130 degrees for 10-15 minutes. But if repeated baking does not help, then you will have to remove the varnish from the bead and varnish it with another varnish.
To remove water-based varnish from a product, it is advised to put the bead in water with lemon or vinegar overnight - the varnish will swell and crack, and it will be easier for you to remove it. To remove mineral varnish from a product, you can use a solvent. Carefully read the instructions for the varnish which solvent is recommended by the manufacturer. Most often, mineral varnish is removed from a bead with alcohol or white spirit. In any case, there is a risk of damaging the product, because... Some solvents may react with plastic.
If the product allows it (there is no pattern, image or complex reliefs on it), you can sand off the sticky varnish from the surface using sandpaper. It is better to take very fine sandpaper (for example, 1000-1500), because you need to try, if possible, not to damage the surface of the product.
Please also pay attention to this: to avoid stickiness of the varnish after varnishing, it is best to leave the product on outdoors for a while. Because there are varnishes that seem to be completely dry to the touch, but in fact they have not yet completely hardened. The drying time is usually indicated by the manufacturer on the label, but even if you wait due date, do not rush to pack your products in bags and boxes. Play it safe, wait a little longer, but you will be firmly confident in the result.
You can also try coating the bead with another varnish, right on top of the sticky one. On the Internet I came across notes about the possibility of using one varnish over another. The craftswomen shared their experience that they did this, and everything was fine.
I'll tell you about my experience - for an experiment I coated several beads with Motip car varnish over an old varnish (there were several options for different varnishes) - and so, on one of the beads (coated with oil-based Varatan), two varnishes reacted - the surface foamed and warped. So my advice to you is to be sure to experiment on an unnecessary piece of plastic to see how the varnishes applied one on top of the other will behave.
And sometimes there are situations when a varnish that has been tested many times by many craftsmen can become sticky. This is what happened to Tatyana “gekata_ru” with everything
The famous Varathan. Read the comments to the post at the link if interested, but many considered the main reason to be that the product was underbaked.
2.Underbaked product. As you already understood from point 1, this problem is very important; underbaking affects both the strength of the product itself and the strength of the varnish coating. It’s very easy to determine if it’s underbaked: bake a small piece of plastic in your usual baking mode, and try to make a hole in it - using a needle, awl or drill. If at the same time the plastic crumbles and breaks off into small pieces, your plastic is underbaked. In this case, you need to re-bake the product.
The temperature and baking time of the plastic is indicated on the packaging; it varies for different plastics, but usually this difference is not very big.
Often the reason for underbaking may be that your oven (stove) does not maintain the temperature indicated on the regulator scale.
To be sure of the temperature, you need to use a thermometer. Such thermometers are specialized; they are produced by plastics manufacturing companies. You can also use a household oven thermometer. I also saw advice to use a thermometer for the sauna, but I haven’t used one myself.
When measuring the temperature in the oven (stove), please note that your measurements must be spaced over time, i.e. If you usually bake the plastic for 15 minutes, then you need to take measurements every 5 minutes. This is due to the fact that the heat in the oven (stove) can vary. “Orangejul” wrote a great comment about this in the comments to this post:
“I also have a mini-stove. I hardly use it - I'm afraid. Looks like DeLonghi. I expected better from her, to be honest.
A little lower here I wrote about a digital multimeter in the comments to the post about a bath thermometer. Its measurement limits seem to be -400 - +1000 degrees. So for our purposes it will do :)))
According to his readings (amazing accuracy), heating in the mini-stove occurs in a sinusoidal manner. We set, for example, 110 degrees: it heats up to 160-180(!), cools down to 70-80, then heats up to 150-160, cools down to 80-90. So further with a narrowing of the temperature fluctuation to an interval of 50 degrees. I am describing this from memory. To achieve this interval, the stove must be turned on for about 40-50 minutes. Thus, it is not possible to achieve a constant temperature in the mini oven. Or another option is to stand near this stove and constantly turn the handle, which is very inconvenient)))
By the way, after the purchase, we went to the store and tested several more stoves in this way. They're all like that. That's why I'm afraid to bake plastic there. Maybe in the future we will carry out some kind of upgrade. My father said that it seemed possible.
For comparison: in a home oven (electric), when set to 110 degrees, the temperature rises to 125, and then decreases and remains in the range of 105-115 degrees. There is a noticeable difference, however. But I feel sorry for the home oven.”
3. Stains and “islands” form on the surface. Most often this means that your varnish has thickened, or is too thick for your job. In this case, it is advised to dilute a little varnish, cover the surface once with this diluted varnish (as if priming), and then varnish undiluted on top of this layer.
4. When you try to remove a varnished and dried product from a toothpick, you discover that the toothpick is stuck to the varnish coating. How to fix? You can carefully trim the varnish around the toothpick with a blade. You can heat the product a little in the oven, literally for a few minutes, - the varnish coating will become more elastic, and you can remove the toothpick without fear of chipping or damaging the varnish layer. In addition, you can play it safe a little, and during the drying of the product, when the coating is no longer sticky, but has not yet completely dried (i.e. remains elastic), turn the toothpick inside the product, or move the bead slightly along the toothpick.
5.Varnish on beads (especially white or light ones) gives a yellowish tint.
This is a property of your varnish, look at the manufacturer's instructions on the packaging - are there UV filters in the varnish? - they just protect the varnish coating from yellowing. But even if you happen to have a varnish that gives a yellow tint, do not rush to throw it away; you can successfully use it in the future on dark and yellow plastic colors.
Precautionary measures when working with paint and varnish products.
First of all, I would like to urge caution from those who use spray varnishes.
When you spray such varnish, a “cloud” of finely dispersed varnish “dust” forms in the air; it settles on nearby surfaces, gets into the eyes and onto the mucous membranes of the nose and mouth. And it turns out that in such a situation it is not enough to work in a well-ventilated area; it is best to go outside for varnishing. Well, at least on the landing. It is also very important to have protection in the form of a respirator, and it would be nice to also have safety glasses. The rest of the recommendations for using varnish in an aerosol can are standard: do not place it near fire, store it out of the reach of children, and if it gets on mucous membranes, rinse them immediately with water.
When working with other varnishes, precautions are usually standard, and you can read about them on the packaging, here are the most common ones:
Keep out of the reach of children. Work in a well-ventilated area. If the composition is swallowed, consult a doctor immediately and show the container or label. Do not pour into the sewer. Remains of varnish and its packaging should be taken to a hazardous waste collection point. The material should be handled avoiding contact with skin and eyes. Use rubber gloves to protect your hands. Upon completion of work, wash the tool with solvent. In case of contact with skin, wash with soap and water. Use personal respiratory protection. Keep away from fire!
Good work and creative success!
The modern paint and varnish market offers products for any need. This applies to interior decoration, exterior work, repair and restoration of various products and mechanisms, individual decoration of objects and much more. Under different types For base materials, varnishes and paints of different compositions, primers and antiseptic impregnations, waxes and adhesive solutions have been developed. Of course, there are special coating materials for varnishing various types plastic.
Why coat plastic with varnish?
It is assumed that the varnish will protect plastic products from the influence of the external environment. The second point is the decorative component of the coating to give the surfaces a characteristic glossy shine. Again, with the help of a special solution, you can enhance the depth of the color of the base or even completely change the color, creating an unusual optical effect on the surface.
Varnishing extends the service life of polymer products; the durable film prevents the possibility of mechanical damage to the base (scratches, chips, cracks). True, not everyone can use varnishes on plastic. Some solutions do not react with the base materials, but simply spread over the surface. Others don’t dry at all. Still others, after a while, begin to stick, warp, and peel off. So you have to choose special solution for polymer materials. Which?
What kind of varnish is used to coat plastic?
Using varnish as usual protective coating, you can choose the most common solution for working on plastic, transparent glossy or matte. Please note that some materials can be tinted using pigment additives. Let's look at the compositions of varnishes for coating plastic.
The easiest way to purchase products is in a specialized store that sells plastic products. There will definitely be several names of such coatings in related products. To purchase, you can go to a paint and varnish store. There, with the help of a sales consultant, select the right product.
You should pay attention to the composition of the solution, its properties and purpose. So, mixtures with alcohol or acetone are absolutely not suitable for plastic, since these solvents react with the polymer. This means that you need water-soluble (water-based) varnishes.
Water-based polyurethane (or acrylic polyurethane) varnish without latex additive (latex is not suitable for coating plastic). Based on the degree of dullness, glossy, semi-glossy and matte solutions are distinguished. An important aspect Product characteristics include the presence of a protective filter against ultraviolet radiation. If this is indicated in the composition, then you can safely use the coating (it will not turn yellow over time).
After drying, polyurethane varnish forms a durable protective film on the surface, protecting the product from abrasion and scratches, and becomes inert to the influence of external environments. The painted surface is easy to wash and clean with traditional detergents household chemicals without harm or deterioration of the protective properties of the varnish. Exceptional gloss allows you to achieve high-quality decorative coating even after multi-layer processing.
The undoubted advantage of all water-based varnishes is environmental safety due to the absence of organic solvents in the composition. Therefore, such solutions have virtually no toxic odor.
Which degree of matte finish is better to choose - glossy, matte, semi-gloss? Here the decision is made directly by the user. It all depends on the decorative purposes of the coating. Glossy varnish usually creates a shiny film on the surface, sometimes even mirror-like, reflective. Matte is less shiny and is used more to convey the depth of color of the plastic.
During operation, the glossy look is less practical, since mechanical damage is more noticeable on a mirror surface (as well as slight defects in the base surface).
The varnish is usually applied as an aerosol (by spraying). In this case, it turns out to lay the layer more evenly without a trace of strokes.
Usually a special polyurethane protective varnish for plastic products used during the production process of the product. Therefore, it is sometimes difficult to find such products in retail sales. But consumer interest, one way or another, influenced the market supply.
Actually, if the instructions for use of a paint and varnish product do not indicate its direct purpose “for work on plastic”, but the composition is urethane (one- or two-component), then feel free to purchase such a product. For example, a protective aerosol for electrical insulation of printed circuit boards, electric motors, transformers, electronic equipment and components. The varnish is easy to use because it is already an aerosol (that is, it has a spray nozzle).
This aerosol has the following properties:
- elasticity;
- formation of a durable, transparent protective film on the surface;
- mold protection;
- moisture-repellent ability;
- resistance to thermal and mechanical stress;
- anti-corrosion properties;
- high adhesion;
- dielectric properties.
The aerosol is applied to a dry, clean surface. Operating conditions are relative heat and moderate humidity. After the aerosol is applied, you need to wait for complete polymerization. After which it is recommended to polish the surface to obtain a glossy shine.
Where can I find such a unique aerosol varnish? Protective polyurethane varnish coatings for electronics can be found in the same electronics stores. Or at construction markets in the special varnish department. Note that varnish aerosol is produced several times famous brands, so the search for a remedy should definitely be crowned with success.
What not to use for plastic work
But the following types of materials called “varnish” are not advisable to use:
- any nail polishes (short-lived, sticky after a while);
- hair styling aerosol (not waterproof, not antistatic);
- universal acrylic varnish mixtures, including artistic ones (they simply do not dry on polymer surfaces).
To enhance the depth of color and a more impressive appearance of a plastic product, it is recommended to apply at least two layers of varnish to the surface. This is especially true for products made of metallized and translucent plastic. In general, the more layers, the better.
Each subsequent treatment should be carried out some time after the previous one. You can learn about interlayer drying intervals from the instructions for use of a specific varnish solution. Polyurethane water-based varnishes “touch-free” dry within 2-3 hours, completely dry in a day to a day and a half. But even after this, it is not recommended to test the coating for strength for at least another week, that is, to wet it.
Small plastic items can be dipped into the solution or painted with a brush. But during drying, hanging droplets may form on the bottom of the product, which must be carefully removed while the substance is still liquid.
Another thing is to use an aerosol. But here too it is important to ensure that the varnish evenly covers the entire surface. Therefore, re-application is recommended to eliminate any possibility of omissions.
Polymer materials themselves are quite durable. But using special protective varnish coatings, you can not only extend the period of use of the product, but also prevent negative influence from the outside. And, of course, to maintain the proper appearance of materials longer.
-147- Varnishes suitable for plastics (polymer clay)Plastic (aka polymer clay) is a capricious material. Therefore, selecting a suitable varnish is very important, because... If the varnish is not suitable, the product begins to stick immediately or after a few months.
Wow, how much time I spent studying varnishes suitable for plastics. Having compiled a list of varnishes that received the most positive reviews, I ran around all the Aleksandrovsky and Posadsky construction stores in search of them. But, alas, I never found it, because... These varnishes are very expensive, and therefore are not in great demand in such small towns. And in the end, I gave up on everything and ordered a special plastic varnish from the Russian Doll House. But that tiny 180 ml bottle is already coming to an end, and I am again collecting information about varnishes, only now about the location of points selling these varnishes in Moscow. On my next trip to the capital I’m going to drop by for a jar of the coveted varnish.
And now I present a list of varnishes, maybe this will make life easier for someone.
==========CHECKED, SUITABLE!===========
construction varnishes (look in construction stores):
- varnishes from plastic manufacturers - FIMO, Studio by Sculpey, Darwi Vernis
- Tikkurila Parketti Assa, Tikkurilovsky (glossy with a green spot on the can)
- Tikkurila Unica Super (urethane-alkyd varnish) - may give a yellowish tint
- Tikkurila KIWA water-based GLOSSY (this is important).
- Sadolin Synteko Pro 20 (semi-matte), 90 (glossy) - ideal.
- Dufa "Aqua-Parkettlack" German acrylic-polyurethane water-based (matte) - specifically with the postscript Aqua. I inadvertently bought a jar without this note, so now I have it useless.
- Varathane is water-based - this varnish is a varnish for all varnishes, but in Russia it is extremely difficult to find.
- prestige yacht varnish. adkid-urethane, waterproof, protective and decorative.
- Poli-R aqua - one-component acrylic-polyurethane water-based
- parquet “Tex”, alkyd-urethane (it turns a little yellow, it takes a long time to dry, but it’s worth it)
==========NOT SUITABLE==============
- "Hobby Line"
- NAIL POLISH! Don't step on the same rake as most plastic makers. Sooner or later, nail polish STARTS TO STICK! If you don’t want to ruin the beads and your mood, then it’s better not to apply nail polish, but look for a normal one.
- ACRYLIC GLOSSY VARNISH (for wooden surfaces and acrylic paints)
- "Eurotex" for the protection of wooden floors. It says ACRYLIC, water based.
- NTs-222
- SOLUBLE VARNISH GLOSS and sideways it says DALER~ROWNEY "varnish for acrylic paints glossy soluble. Manufactured by Anguil"
- Pebeo, "top gloss varnish. Applies well, gives the most uneven work an excellent even gloss... dries quickly.."
- olki glossy acrylic varnish.
- Ukrainian varnish "ROLAX", alkyd, PF-170 for wood
===========POLISHES THAT HAVE RECEIVED BOTH POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE REVIEWS==========
You can try at your own risk:
- Parketti Assa matte Tikkurilov (which has a red spot on the metal can)
- Kiva tikkurilovskaya SEMI-MATTE there are complaints that it sticks
- Sonnet (glossy, sticky after drying) - I bought this one first: the result is discarded sticky beads
- I would put the Fimo with the blue cap in this category. It bubbles, scratches, comes off the bead, there is no feeling of complete drying.
- alkyd varnish Oreol, for wood and metal, glossy
=========IF THE VARNISH STARTS TO STICK, THEN============
1. You can try to re-fire the beads in the oven for a short time at a temperature of about 60 degrees.
2. if firing does not help, then remove the varnish with a solvent (one that is suitable for this varnish, read the description of your varnish) the bead will NOT suffer from this, remove it safely.
3. find good varnish from the list of tested ones and cover the beads with it.
Shop Kalinkapolinka
Newbies often ask me questions, so I decided to write a separate post on the most basic questions (in some places the word polymer clay will be replaced by pg):
What polymer clay should I use?
For starters, you can try Tsvetik plastic, it is sold in packages of 6-12 colors and is cheaper than foreign analogues PREMO, SCULPEY, KATO, PARDO, FIMO (the most common foreign type of plastic in Russia). There is also Polish plastic, it is quite inexpensive, strong, it can be boiled rather than baked, it is suitable for sculpting flowers and other sculptures, but, unfortunately, it is not very good for sausages. What is the difference between Tsvetik and more expensive materials? Firstly, this type of plastic has a very small range of colors, it looks like ordinary children's plasticine, and there are no colors with effects at all (mother-of-pearl, metallic, etc.) Secondly, after baking this plastic is more fragile (those those who sculpt from Russian materials may question my words, but now I’m talking about my personal experience). “Tsvetika” “Sonnet” is a little better, but still, after baking it breaks easily. I often use these clays for the insides of round beads.
How do other clays differ from each other?
FIMO is the most common in Russia, there are two types: Classic and Soft. The software is softer. It has a large palette of colors, is suitable for all techniques, and after baking practically does not change color (only translucent shades become brighter, translucent white in a thick layer with a gray tint is obtained)
Premo is one of my favorite types of plastic; it has a pleasant consistency for modeling and is very good for sausages.
Studio is another plastic from scalpi, it is no longer produced, but is still sold in stores. Pleasant to the touch, velvety after baking, the color scheme is very beautiful, there are very rich colors and restrained, noble ones.
Cernit is a fairly dense clay, requires a long kneading before sculpting, similar to wax. During baking, the color changes significantly and transparency appears. Suitable for sculpting doll faces (due to its porcelain nature), imitation of stone (there is even a whole series for imitation of marble and other natural textures). And its transparency is one of the most transparent.
KATO-pg, baked at more high temperature, than all the others, has a very hard consistency, kneads with a hammer.
There are many more different clays, I mainly use these (I just don’t use KATO, I once bought all the colors to try, I have some difficulty with it).
What tools and materials are needed for sculpting?
You definitely need a knife, a very sharp one. A special one is best, but a stationery one will do. Do not use a kitchen knife or, in general, utensils from which you will later eat. This is dangerous to your health.
In second place is the rolling pin. A pasta machine or noodle cutter in Russian is also indispensable. But at first, a rolling pin can replace it. The rolling pin should not be made of plastic (not all types of plastic tolerate contact with PG; PG often dissolves them). Special acrylic roller, can be replaced with a metal tube, glass object (narrow bottle, smooth glass, etc.)
Toothpicks will come in handy; you can use them to roll up sausage slices like miniature stacks, make holes in the beads (although I recommend drilling holes after baking with a 1-2 mm drill, but in some cases you can use a toothpick), you can dry varnished beads on them and bake in the oven raw, in general they will come in handy.
Then you'll probably want to buy metal cutting molds (similar to the ones you use to make cookies) and texture sheets made of rubber or silicone, and in general there's a whole heap of other stuff that you can buy later. In the meantime, you can look in the bins for beautiful buttons, metal pendants (with which you can squeeze out designs), and instead of molds, you can have a cap or a glass with sharp edges, or make a tin mold of your own design from a metal can or plastic bottle.
In addition to tools, everything that needlewomen have in stock can be useful in their work: glitter, sprinkles, sequins, shadows, pastels, skeletonized leaves, beautiful pieces of glass, beads, decorative elements, acrylic paints, in general, everything with which you can decorate your work.
If you want to make jewelry, then you will need accessories for jewelry: bases for earrings, pins, bases for rings, clasps, chains, cords, etc. I will write a separate article about this a little later.
How to make sure that white is white when sculpting?
When sculpting, keep it clean, it is better to wear gloves on your hands, sculpt on a white piece of paper, clean glass. If you sculpt from white, then wear light-colored clothes so that there are no lints around you. Keep wet wipes on hand to wipe your hands and tools. In addition, damp wipes can be used to smooth out uneven areas.
How to make plastic softer or harder?
To soften the plastic, they come up with many folk methods using cream, Vaseline, heating, etc. I use the simplest one: Moldmaker. This is a plasticizer for making molds; there are enough peas for a pack of polymer clay. Or mix with softer plastic. And, conversely, if the plastic “flows in your hands,” then you need to mix it with a drier one, or put it on a sheet of white paper for a couple of hours until it becomes greasy, and excess plasticizer comes out of the polymer clay.
How to bake polymer clay and at what temperature?
Baking is an important moment for creating a quality product. The temperature is indicated on the clay package. You can bake on a regular baking sheet covered with paper folded like an accordion; you can put the beads on a toothpick and stick them into foil; flat beads are best baked on glass or ceramic tiles. When baking, there should be no odor, the product should not turn black or char. If this happens, ventilate the room as soon as possible. After baking, wash the stove if you plan to cook food in it later. If you are very worried about the issue of toxicity, then you can put the glass in a baking sleeve and then open it outside.
The first time you bake, don’t put all the molded beauty into the oven at once, practice with a sample. After baking, the clay should be dense, thin flat parts should bend a little and not break at the slightest pressure, the chips when drilling should be long and not scatter with sand.
What varnish should I use to coat polymer clay?
Do not use regular nail polish or acrylic varnish for creativity, some varnishes can dissolve plastic, even if it seems that it is dry at first, over time it can begin to stick and collect all the dust; there is no way to remove it from the product, which will be irretrievably damaged . There are special branded varnishes; in extreme cases, you can use non-special, but experience-tested varnishes for construction work: Tikkurila parquetti-yassya varnish (in a green can, dries for a couple of hours, shines well, water-based, with a slight odor, the brush is easy to clean with water ), Tikkurila Unika-super (this is a yacht varnish, the coating is simply eternal, there are a couple of disadvantages - it turns light-colored products yellow, takes a long time to dry and has a strong smell), synteco pro 90 (pro 90 glossy, pro 45 semi-gloss, pro-20 semi-matte, properties like ash, but more stable, gives a more durable coating).
Glue for polymer clay, which one to use?
To glue parts onto bases (for example, for a ring), I use Contact Gel glue. If you want to glue a pin, then drill the hole a little oversized so that there is room for the glue and it can fasten the pin to the base.
If you need to fasten parts made of polymer clay to each other or a piece of unbaked plastic to a baked one, then use a special baked gel, liquid plastic, for example, FIMO liquid. It definitely needs to be baked.
How to store uncut polymer clay sausages and started packs?
It is necessary to wrap them in film or put them in a zip bag. By themselves, they, of course, do not dry out in air, but over time they can lose their plasticity and become brittle due to the evaporation of the plasticizer. Do not wrap sausages in paper!
How to polish polymer clay beads?
Sanding is done after baking, before varnishing. The sandpaper is waterproof, I buy it in car stores: the largest number is 400, then 600, then 800, 1000-1200 is polishing.
Whether to polish or not is your decision. If you touch the beads after polishing, they feel completely different to the touch; the varnish does not hide the defects, but only emphasizes them even more.
Is polymer clay toxic?
In a sense, yes. This is still not a completely natural product, which is not recommended for use by children under 8 years old; bake under parental supervision. If the plastic burns, ventilate the room. Bake with a hood, after baking, wash the stove or use a separate one for clay. Dishes, noodle cutters, knives, plates that have been in contact with clay should not be used for food in the future! Once baked, it is considered non-toxic. Not suitable for babywearing beads; children can bite off a piece of the bead, because their composition is softer than plastic.
That's all I remember for now. I plan to add to this list.
