Wool blend twill fabric. Weaving weaves and their types

Atlas (Arabic, literally - smooth) - dense silk or semi-silk fabric of satin weave with a smooth shiny front surface. Satin is used for sewing clothes (for example, a tuxedo) and shoes, making draperies, upholstery for furniture, making flags and more.

Batiste (from French batiste) - thin, translucent linen or cotton fabric of plain weave, produced from high-count twisted yarn (the thinnest). Batiste is produced bleached, mercerized, plain-dyed and printed. Used for women's underwear, summer dresses, blouses, and also as a semi-finished product for making tracing paper.

Velvet (probably from German Barchent; English Velvet, French Velours) - fabric with cut pile, which is obtained through a special interweaving of threads: four in pairs form the upper and lower base, and the fifth - the pile. Velvet with a high pile is called plush. There is also weft velvet, which is called semi-velvet, plush or corduroy. The colors of velvet can be very diverse.

Tarpaulin (from Dutch presenning) - dense linen, semi-linen or cotton fabric made from thick yarn. Often impregnated with fire-resistant or water-repellent and anti-rot compounds. Tarpaulin is made from natural plant flax and cotton raw materials, as well as from synthetic fiber. The density of tarpaulin ranges from 300 to 600 g/m, maybe higher. It is used for the manufacture of covering materials, tents, awnings, backpacks, special clothing and footwear (raincoats, mittens, boots) and other products that require increased strength and special properties of the fabric.

Boucle - a coarse plain weave fabric, made from fancy yarn, having large knots located at some distance from each other, in the warp and weft or only in the weft, as a result of which the fabric acquires a knobby surface. Some types of this fabric are made from twisted warp and weft yarns in a finely patterned weave.

Calico - (Arabic bäzz), thick cotton fabric of plain weave, paper canvas, burmet. Calico is produced in raw (unfinished) and bleached, printed and plain-dyed forms. Bleached calico is usually called linen

Currently, calico is the main type of bed fabric for sewing bed linen.

It is also worth noting such properties of calico as:

hygiene
ecological cleanliness
ease
the ability to maintain the brightness of the pattern for many years
low creasing

Viscose - (from Late Latin viscosus - viscous) highly viscous concentrated solution of cellulose xanthate in a dilute NaOH solution. When viscose is treated with acid, cellulose xanthate is destroyed, releasing the original cellulose, which is released from the solution. Viscose is used to produce artificial leather(tarpaulin), viscose non-fibrous products (cellulose film plasticized with glycerin - cellophane) and for spinning viscose fiber.

Gabardine (French gabardine) - woolen fabric made from merino yarn, very thin, twisted in two ends for the warp, and less thin, single - for the weft. Thanks to the use of a special type of weave - complex twill, a sharply defined small scar is formed on the front surface, running obliquely at an angle of 60-70°. Spring-summer men's and men's clothing are sewn from gabardine. women's coats, as well as suits and some types of officer uniforms.

Guipure - woven lace, in which elements of a relief irregular pattern are interconnected by thin ties.

Tapestry - woolen, to the touch soft fabric with long shiny pile. This fabric is produced with a complex large-patterned weave of three, four or more thread systems; it is two-layer, heavy or medium-heavy, large-patterned, plain-dyed or melange. Ladies' coats, winter suits for men and women, skirts, and sports jackets are made from this fabric.

Jersey (English jersey - from the name of the island of Jersey) - fabric, warp knitted (of many threads) knitwear made of wool, cotton, silk or synthetic threads. It has a certain elasticity and stretchability. The weight can vary from light silk fabric for underwear to heavy wool jersey used for jackets and even coats.

Diagonal - dense fabric made of cotton or woolen yarn. The diagonal is characterized by pronounced scars on the surface, located at an angle of more than 45 to the edge of the fabric; they are obtained as a result of the appropriate selection of the ratios of density and thickness of the warp and weft, as well as the use of a special weave of threads. The diagonal is used for sewing military uniforms (made of wool warp and cotton weft), coats, jackets and other things.

Canvas (French canevas) - mesh cotton, linen (or mixed in composition) fabric, as well as bases made of other materials. It is used for embroidery with counted cross, uncounted cross, satin stitch, tapestry stitch, in carpet technology, etc. for the manufacture of pillows, carpets, embroidered paintings, handbags, boxes and others, sometimes as cushioning material in clothes. There are several types of embroidery base. These are Aida and Hardanger, uniform weave canvas (cotton), uneven weave canvas (linen and linen mixtures), plastic canvas, overlay canvas for embroidery on clothing (it is divided into pull-out and water-soluble), perforated paper, Stramin.

Cashmere - light woolen, half-woolen or cotton fabric with twill weave. Cashmere is usually made plain-dyed from combed wool yarn. It is used for sewing women's and children's dresses, etc. Cashmere received its name from the so-called cashmere (Kashmir) shawls (the fabric of which it resembles), made from fine goat hair in Kashmir.

Kirza, or kerza - material based on multi-layer cotton fabric treated with film-forming substances. Used as a leather substitute. The surface of the tarpaulin is embossed to imitate the texture of pigskin.

Crepe satin - silk fabric made from raw silk in the warp and raw silk crepe in the weft, usually plain-dyed, less often printed. Crepe satin has a characteristic shine and fine-grained surface. In appearance it most closely resembles satin: the front side is shiny, smooth; the reverse side is matte, grainy. Blouses and dresses, both weekend and everyday, are made from crepe satin. In addition to clothing, crepe satin is used for sewing theater and stage curtains, backstage, etc.

Gauze (French marli - muslin). Very rare, transparent and at the same time light weight cotton fabric. The transparency and lightness of this fabric is achieved by the fact that both the warp and weft threads do not adhere closely to each other in gauze, as in ordinary fabrics, but are separated by more or less noticeable gaps. According to the method of production, gauze can be divided into thin gauze and ordinary gauze (lining). Bleached gauze is produced, less often harsh gauze. Thin gauze, defatted and bleached in a special chemical way or treated with carbolic acid is called hygroscopic or carbonized and is used for medical purposes as dressing(for bandages, etc.).

Terry fabric - the official name is “frote”, the colloquial name is “makhra”. Frote is a natural fabric whose surface consists of pile (loops of warp threads). The pile can be either single (one-sided) or double (double-sided). In addition to one-sided and double-sided, there are also fabrics with a relief pattern in the structure of terry and fabric with cut pile (cropped terry).

Sackcloth - a coarse, durable fabric made from thick yarn with a plain weave of threads. Yarn for burlap is made from coarse (hard bast) fibers: hemp, jute, kenaf, etc. Burlap is used for making bags, rough clothing, rough filters for water and technical liquids, and as investment fabric. Burlap is made from hemp, a material used to make strong ropes and ropes. Canvas made from this durable natural fiber has a uniform woven pattern with a pronounced texture. It noticeably dominates other elements of painting. This perfect base for working in the style of energetic and impasto application of paints. The gaps between the threads of jute canvas are wide, so sometimes it has to be primed twice.

Microfiber or microfiber (English microfibre or microfiber) - fabric made from polyester fibers, can also consist of polyamide fibers and other polymers. The fabric got its name due to the thickness of the fibers, which is several micrometers. Microfiber is used in the production of woven, non-woven and knitted fabrics. Can be used in clothing, upholstery, industrial filters, and cleaning products.

Brocade - artistic and decorative fabric with a silk base, containing metal threads with gold, silver (or materials imitating them) in the weft (less often in the warp). Gold and silver threads in brocade in ancient times were made from pure precious metal, later - from alloys with insignificant content precious metals. Usually a metal ribbon is wrapped around a silk or cotton thread (tinsel), due to which the necessary flexibility of the fabric and sufficient massiveness and shine are achieved. Brocade is often used in Orthodox church vestments.

Percale (French percale, from Persian پرگاله‎ - rag) - high-strength cotton fabric made from untwisted threads. Strictly speaking, the word "percale" in Russian is feminine, but in the context of application in aviation (see below) this word is more often used in the masculine gender. Made from medium (No. 36-60) and fine (No. 60-100) numbers of paper yarn; in the latter case it is also called paper cambric. Density from 3500 to 6500 threads per 1 m (90-160 threads per 1 dm). Available in unfinished form, but with the adhesive solution applied during sizing removed.

Polycotton - mixed fabric intended for the production of bed linen, blankets, pillows and mattresses.

Compared to fabrics made only from cotton fibers, polycotton has the following advantages:

Durability of fabric structure and dye stability;
Low shrinkage;
Good hygienic properties;
Low creasing;
No fiber migration;
Saving detergents when washing.

Poplin - fabric formed by a combination of a thin, dense warp with a coarser and sparse transverse weft, forming a rib. The density of the warp is 1.5-2 times higher than that of the weft. As a rule, it is made from cotton or chemical fibers, less often - from natural silk based on a wool weft. Available both bleached and dyed. The fabric is characterized as soft to the touch, in comparison with oxford - smoother in texture and approximately corresponding to it in density. Widely used for sewing men's shirts.

Twill (Italian sargia, French serge, from Latin sericus - “silk”) - cotton, silk or artificial fabric with diagonal weave of threads; It is produced mainly plain-dyed and printed. Used as lining, dress, technical, etc. fabric.

Satin (French satin, from Arabic zaytuni, from Zaytun - the ancient Arabic name of the Chinese harbor of Quanzhou, from where this fabric was exported) - fabric of satin weave of threads made of cotton or chemical fiber. It has a smooth, silky front surface, on which weft threads predominate; quite dense and shiny; It is produced mainly plain-dyed, printed and bleached. Used for making dresses, men's shirts, etc. lining fabric etc. Satin is made from double-woven twisted cotton thread. It has long been noted that the more the thread is twisted, the brighter the shine. This is how gloss appeared - satin, reminiscent of silk.

Chintz (from Dutch sits; original source in Sanskrit sitras - variegated) - light cotton plain-dyed or printed fabric of plain weave, produced from harsh calico using dyeing and finishing operations. Typically, the density of chintz is from 80 to 100 g/m². Chintz is used for sewing lightweight outerwear, men's shirts, bed linen.

Taffeta - a type of glossy dense thin fabric plain weave made from tightly twisted threads of silk, cotton or other raw materials. It is used for sewing elegant and evening clothes, decoration and upholstery. The word “taffeta” itself is of Persian origin and means “woven.” Taffeta is characterized by rigidity, density and fragility of folds. And thanks to its plasticity and rigidity, taffeta makes it possible to create lush silhouettes and voluminous draperies.

Teak (Dutch tijk, English tick) - dense fabric of twill or plain weave threads with longitudinal wide multi-colored or printed colored stripes. Made from linen or cotton yarn. Used for mattresses, furniture covers, curtains, etc.

Flannel - cotton, wool or wool blend fabric of plain or twill weave, with fluffy double-sided or one-sided uniform sparse fleece. Heat-saving, soft, pleasant to the touch material. Surface density 170-257 g/m2. Flannel is produced printed, plain-dyed and bleached. Disadvantages - if worn for too long, it begins to “roll off”. It is very hygroscopic and takes a long time to dry after getting wet.

Fleece (English Fleece) is a synthetic non-woven material for the manufacture of warm clothing, made from polyethylene terephthalate fiber. Fleece is used to make hats, sweaters, jackets, usually sports or tourist ones. A sweater or jacket made of fleece often serves as the middle element of a “three-layer” garment used by fans of mountaineering and extreme sports (the first layer is thermal underwear, the third is a jacket made of “breathable” fabric with a membrane). Fleece jackets and sweatshirts are worn as independent clothing.

Basic properties of fleece:

low specific gravity;
good breathability;
elasticity;
does not require special care (machine washable);
dries quickly;
average mechanical strength and wear resistance;
average thermal insulation properties;
not subject to biological destruction;
highly flammable;
even when wet it retains its heat-insulating properties;
does not cause allergies.

Thanks to these properties, fleece clothing, as well as fleece blankets, have gained popularity in children's everyday life.

Flock (translated from German as “snowflakes” or “flakes”) is a material most often used for upholstery (decorative covering) of furniture. Also used in car interiors. Flock is a very practical material; in terms of ease of use (cleaning, cleaning) it is comparable to genuine leather, but unlike it, it “breathes” freely in the heat and does not stiffen in the cold. Has a high degree of waterproofness. It has a surface that is pleasant to the touch. Can be painted in various colors. It comes with embossing and the so-called “flock on flock” - a multi-layer coating.

Plaid - a fabric made from cotton, wool yarn, various chemical threads in a twill weave with a large checkered pattern, typical of the fabrics of national Scottish clothing. Tartan is used for sewing school uniforms, dresses and men's overshirts. The second, less common, but more correct name for the tartan pattern and the fabric itself is tartan, that is, a dense checkered woolen fabric used for sewing Scottish kilts.

Twill is a name given to a specific type of fabric, but it would be more correct to call this a whole group of fabrics with a characteristic way of weaving threads. The twill type is included in the basic group and is the second most common after linen.

Such fabrics are universal: they are woven from almost any raw material and used for sewing many types of products. The main distinguishing feature of twill is the pattern of diagonal lines, which is formed due to the frequent displacement of the overlap of the warp and weft threads.

Appearance

The twill weave of the fabric has one recognizable feature - it is a diagonal pattern of parallel stripes. Sometimes this method of creating canvases is called diagonal or marque. The hem stretches across the width of the canvas from left to right to the top, less often vice versa. The pattern is formed due to the constant displacement of the weft threads relative to the warp. This is how the characteristic diagonal relief is obtained. This pattern is the main difference between twill and plain weave, in which everything is built according to the checkerboard principle.

Twill fabrics come with both a smooth and finely patterned back. Fabrics are produced, printed, and bleached twill is also available. It is possible to combine threads of two colors, as, for example, in .

Varieties of weave

The variety of thread patterns is determined by the types of twill weave threads:

Classic type. The angle of the hem is on the right side, the lines are equal in width.
Reverse - tilt of the hem to the left.
A complex variety - several relief stripes of different widths are distinguishable. This does not change the strength and other properties of the canvas.
A broken mesh allows you to make a pattern from different directions of the corners. This is the herringbone pattern. In the broken way, fabrics are mainly woven from wool, cashmere, and less often cotton fibers.
Reinforced weaving allows for wide diagonals.

Fabrics vary in the sharpness of the scar angle. If the warp and weft threads are equal, then the standard angle is 45 degrees. When the base exceeds , the angle will be wider, and vice versa, when there is more base, the angle will be sharper. The twill effect also depends on the properties of the yarn itself. If it is thick and twisted, the design appears more prominent and the material is rougher.

What is good about twill

The spread of twill weave is explained by a number of positive properties of materials. Any fabric woven in this way, regardless of the source material, has a number of advantages:

Has the highest strength and is resistant to tearing.
It does not become covered with pills and will last a long time due to its wear resistance.
This is practically indestructible matter.
It accepts various reinforcing impregnations well: water-repellent and others. This is an excellent property for fabrics used for sewing workwear.
The material turns out softer and smoother than with plain weave.
Hygroscopicity - the ability to absorb and release moisture - is also inherent in twill.
The fabric stretches a little diagonally, it is quite elastic and does not hinder movements when worn.
The double-sided fabrics are pleasant to the touch, making it comfortable to wear.
Twill drapes well.
Easy to care for: easy to wash and dry quickly.
Natural fabrics are environmentally friendly and hypoallergenic.
Does not have the property of being electrified.
It has excellent thermoregulation: it retains heat, but allows air to pass through, providing the necessary comfort.
Twill is affordable and comes in a large selection of small patterns and fabric colors.

Advice! Due to the slight stretching, care is required when cutting the product so that it does not warp.

Review of matters

The threads used for twill weaving have an equal impact on the properties of the finished fabric. The versatility of twill lies in the use of both natural fibers - cotton, linen - and artificial and synthetic ones.

Usually these are very dense and warm materials. Twill weave wool is used to sew warm winter and outerwear.

Examples:

Gabardine- merino wool fabric. Jackets, coats, and suits are made from it. In the furniture industry, gabardine is used as an upholstery material. This furniture looks elegant. The peculiarity is that the hem on the front side is inclined at 60 degrees and the back is smooth.
- woolen fabric for sewing warm clothes, elegant suits, coats, hats, bags. Made from sheep wool. Properties of tweed: retains heat, does not wrinkle, has an aesthetic appearance.

Wool blend

Twill weaves use mixtures of fibers. Wool-blend fabrics have proven themselves well. Cotton thread is used for the warp, wool fibers act as weft.

Wool blend twill is good for tailoring. A popular variety is tartan: a fabric with a large check pattern.

Cotton

100% cotton fabrics are the densest. This type of twill is called harsh.

One of the most widely used and beautiful twill fabrics is denim, better known as denim. Dyed threads are used for the warp in twill weave, and undyed threads for the weft.

The upholstery of mattresses is also made from cotton twill. Upholstered furniture is covered with such fabrics. Cotton is also widely used for sewing home textiles.

Work clothes, trousers for miners, fastening belts, bags, mittens and other household supplies are made from coarse 100% cotton materials.

Man-made and synthetic fibers can be added to cotton to improve its elastic properties. Typically, the share of cotton in mixed fabrics is at least 70%. So, fabric with the addition of elastane is called stretch. Women's clothing is made from it.

Silk and semi-silk

Soft and pleasant to the body bedding sets are created from silk twill fabrics. For semi-silk fabrics, a silk warp and cotton weft are used.

Viscose

Viscose yarn is obtained from cellulose. Thin viscose twill fabrics are widely used for lining outerwear and hats. Many elements of women's wardrobe are sewn from fabric.

How to care for products

Despite the strength of this weave, you should be more careful when handling textiles. Care rules depend on the composition of the fabric. If it contains wool, cashmere or silk fibers, then washing, drying and ironing are carried out strictly according to the recommendations on the label. So, the temperature should not exceed 40 degrees, chlorine-containing substances, bleaches, and high-speed spinning are prohibited.

In other cases, washing is allowed at a temperature no higher than 60 degrees at medium speed. Twill does not shrink; in extreme cases, it shrinks a little after the first wash. Only the coarsest and most durable materials can be pressed at maximum speed and exposed to high temperatures. Since the fabric practically does not wrinkle, it can be easily ironed from the wrong side with a warm iron.

There is no person who has not encountered the twill group of fabrics in life. Such canvases are used very widely. It's hard to imagine a modern wardrobe without denim jackets and pants. The workwear is also strong and durable. Regardless of the raw material, twill is a convenient and practical material.

Twill is a fabric made by weaving diagonally threads. It can be based on both natural and artificial fibers.

Twill fabric is widely used in many areas of light industry.

The material appeared many centuries ago, presumably in the 300s in the French town of Nimes.

In the mid-19th century, American entrepreneur Levi Strauss adopted the technology of creating fabric for sewing canvas jeans and created the Denim brand, which literally means “from Nîmes.” This is how twill weave gained worldwide popularity.

Today there is big variety types of this material. On the labels of twill products you can see its generally accepted designations. Some of the most popular: S-38 Yud and ST-6. They are used to create clothing for a wide range of purposes.

Weaving features

While the raw materials used to create the fabric vary, the production method remains the same. It gives the material a number of advantageous characteristics.

The weaving method is called twill. It is also known as marque or diagonal. The point is this: in the process of guiding the weft thread, it moves relative to the warp. The result is a relief with a characteristic slope.

The diagonal pattern is represented by large or small scars, “running” to the right or left at different angles. Details depend on the thickness of the thread, texture and number of weft indentation steps.

Species diversity

Twill is classified according to several parameters.

According to color it can be:

Printed, that is, to have a pattern. Camouflage fabric is popular.
Plain painted, plain.
Bleached.

Based on the type of weaving (fineness and inclination of the thread), twill is distinguished:

Classic. The slope goes to the right side, the lines have the same width.
Broken, or reverse. Tilt to the left. The result is a fine ribbed pattern.
Complex. The fabric is characterized by diagonals of different widths.
Reinforced. The fiber is distinguished by raised wide diagonals.
Zigzag. The direction of the weft tilt is alternating.

Twill is distinguished by its composition:

Cotton, or harsh. This is the densest material. It contains 100% cotton.
Silk. Distinctive features: smoothness, pleasant shine.
Woolen.
Polyester.
Viscose.
Stretch (with the addition of elastane).

There are many composition options: natural and artificial fibers are combined in various proportions. But the basis is cotton, most often its share is from 70%.

Distinctive properties: advantages

All products made from this fabric have a number of advantages. Namely:

Strength and wear resistance. This main advantage is provided due to the density of the fabric: it is 220-360 grams per square meter. meter.
Good breathability, thermoregulation. Clothing allows the body to “breathe”. And at the same time, in cold times it warms.
Hygroscopicity (ability to absorb moisture).
Non-electrifying. The material does not “spark” - static electricity does not accumulate. Therefore, the fabric is suitable for sewing workwear for workers at chemical plants, etc.
Hypoallergenic. Safety for humans is explained by the predominant proportion of cotton threads in the fiber.
Resistance to water and dirt (if the item has been treated with a special impregnation).
Practicality. Twill products are easy to wash, dry quickly, do not fade or wrinkle, and do not absorb odors.

Flaws

There are not many disadvantages to the fabric.

The main weakness is that the twill may shrink after the first wash. Shrinkage is especially common in cotton varieties, which, moreover, have virtually no stretch.

Application area

This type of fabric has received recognition from manufacturers of wardrobe items for everyday and “professional” wear. They sew from it:

uniforms and special clothing for workers and employees of enterprises and factories (cooks, salespeople, doctors, oil producers, etc.);
bags, belts, fasteners and other technical items;
furniture fabrics;
mattresses and home textiles (curtains, tablecloths, pillows, etc.);
bed sheets;
lining fabrics;
summer dresses, blouses, skirts, light robes, kimonos;
outerwear, raincoats, jackets;
trousers, suits, sweaters, overalls for children and adults;
headwear: light caps and warm hats.

Features of care

But there is a general list of wishes for caring for twill wardrobe items. They are as follows:

Pure cotton can be washed at maximum temperature;
clothes with the addition of synthetics, silk or wool - up to 40 degrees;
intensive spinning is allowed only for harsh twill;
If there is a need for ironing, it is recommended to do it from the inside out, using the gentle iron setting.

The weave of threads in fabrics varies. The shine, relief and pattern of the front surface of the fabric, as well as its mechanical, hygienic and technical properties depend on them. The weave pattern is taken into account when modeling, designing, cutting fabric and sewing products. There are 4 classes of weaves:

Simple (smooth);
Finely patterned;
Complex;
Large patterned.

Let's imagine that each cell represents the crossing of two threads, which is called overlap, if the main thread extends onto the front surface, the overlap is called main and is shaded when sketched.

If the weft thread comes out onto the front surface, then the intersection is called weft and remains white when sketched. A repeating pattern is called report. Report on basis- this is the number of warp threads that form the weave pattern. Weft report - the number of weft threads that form the weave pattern.

1. Simple (smooth)

Simple weaves are: linen, twill, satin - satin. In them, each warp thread is intertwined with the weft thread only once, and the report on the weft thread is always equal to the report on the warp. In a plain weave, the warp and weft threads alternate through one, on the front surface of the fabric either the warp or weft thread comes out, the warp and weft report is equal to two.

Plain weave fabrics have a smooth, matte surface that is the same on the front and back sides. They have the greatest strength, and with high density - increased rigidity. With plain weaving, the following fabrics are produced: miktal, voile, madapolam, maya, cambric, chintz, and other cottons. Linen fabrics: linen, edging, canvas. Silk fabrics: crepe de chine, crepe georgette, crepe chiffon. Woolen fabrics: cloth of some dress and suit fabrics. If in a plain weave the warp is thinner than the weft, then a transverse scar appears on the fabric, such fabrics are called false reps(taffeta, poplin).

Fabrics twill weave have a scar on the front surface, it goes from bottom to top, from right to left. The smallest number in the report is 3. With each subsequent threading, the loom moves by one thread. Twill weaves are denoted by a fraction, the numerator is the number of main overlaps, and the denominator is the number of weft threads in each row.

The twill report on the warp is equal to the report on the weft, and is equal to the sum of the numbers in the numerator and denominator. If the main threads predominate on the front surface, the weave is called main(2/1, 3/1, 4/1). If weft threads predominate on the front surface, then the weave is called weft(1/2, 1/3, 1/4). Half-silk fabrics and half-woolen fabrics are produced, which have a cotton warp and a wool weft. With the same density and thickness of the warp and weft, the rib angle is 45°. Twill weave fabrics are more elastic than plain weave fabrics. With low density, fabrics have increased stretchability, diagonally.

Fabrics of satin and satin weaves have a shiny and smooth surface. On the front surface of satin, weft threads predominate, and on the front surface of satin, warp threads predominate. There should be at least five weaves in total. In five-thread satin, the warp in the report comes out only once on the front surface and passes under 4 weft threads.

In the next row everything is the same, but there is a shift by 2 threads. Satin weave produces fabric called satin.

In satin weave, each warp in the report overlaps 4 weft threads.

The following fabrics are produced: sateen - double, eraser - cotton, silk - crepe - satin, corsetry, staple fabrics for pajamas. The disadvantage is that there is friability and slipping during laying and sewing.

2. Finely patterned

In the class of finely patterned weaves there are two subclasses: derivatives - obtained by changing or complicating simple weaves; combined- obtained by alternating and combining simple weaves. Derivatives include: rep weave and matting. Rep weave formed by lengthening the main and weft overlaps . — Each warp thread goes through 2 - 3 or more weft threads.

A transverse scar appears.

If each weft goes through 2 - 3 or more warp threads, then a longitudinal rib appears, and the rep is called longitudinal.

Fabrics produced: flannel and rep.

This is a double or triple plain weave in which the number of warp and weft threads increases symmetrically in the warp and weft.

The following fabrics are produced: cotton (matting), silk (crepe - elegant), wool (dress and suit fabrics).

Derivatives of twill weaves include: reinforced twill, broken twill And complex twill. In reinforced twill there are no single weaves, there is a report, which is designated 2/2, 3/3, 3/2, 4/2, 2/4.

Reinforced twills can be warp, weft or equilateral. Reinforced twill 2/2 and 3/3 produces cashmere, baston, and cheviot.

Broken twill and reverse twill are called herringbone weaves because the direction of the twill strip periodically changes at an angle of 90º.

Reverse twill differs from broken twill in that at the break point the twill strip shifts, the weft strips go against the main overlaps, and the main ones go against the weft overlaps.

Forms alternating diagonal scars of different widths on the fabric. It is characterized by a fraction containing in the numerator and denominator two or more numbers 1 -2 /2 -3, 1 -3/2 -1, 2 - 2/4 - 1.

Complex twill is used to produce dress and coat fabrics.

Satin weave derivatives include reinforced satin. Unlike satin, which consists of eight threads, in reinforced, in each horizontal row, two main overlaps alternate with six weft ones.

Fabrics produced: moleskin, cotton cloth, suede, corduroy.

Combined finely patterned weaves include:

ornamental;

crepe;

embossed;

translucent.

Ornamental- creates simple patterns on the surface of the fabric in the form of longitudinal and transverse stripes, cells, contours. They are formed by alternating or combining simple weaves. For example, twill and grosgrain or broken twill and matting. Many suit and some coat fabrics are produced.

Crepe- These are elongated overlaps scattered on the front surface, which give the fabric a grainy character.

They are very diverse and are used to produce cotton, wool, silk and other dress fabrics.

Embossed form a pattern with protruding weft and warp threads. These include “waffle” diagonal and ribbed weaves. By changing the length of the warp and weft overlaps in the “waffle”, a pattern is formed that resembles a waffle pattern. Used for making towels. Housewives are definitely familiar with these.

Diagonal. In them, small convex relief stripes are formed on the front surface, running from bottom to top, from left to right, or with such an inclination as in a rib. Depending on the density of the warp and the nature of the weave, gabardines are produced.

Ribbed. They have convex stripes running at an angle or vertically. Pique fabric is produced.

Translucent. Gives the fabric an openwork look. During the weaving process, the warp and weft threads shift or separate to form gaps. Cotton fabrics “Sport” and “Salute” are produced.

3. Complex

Complex weaves are formed from three or more thread systems. These include: two-face, two-layer, pique, pile, loop, leno.

Two-faced are formed from three systems of threads that are tightly intertwined. These are two warps and wefts, or one warp and two wefts. This weave produces cotton fabrics: satin - tights, flannel, wool - cloth.

Double layer are formed from four or five systems of threads and can consist of two separate fabrics connected to each other by one of the constituent four systems or an additional fifth system. In two-layer fabrics, the front and back sides can be completely different: the front side can be plain-dyed, and the back side can be variegated, checkered, striped, or both sides are smooth, but of different colors.

Pique is a complex weave and differs from false pique by the presence of an additional system of threads. The front surface of the pique is produced by a plain weave, and an additional system tightens it, forming a convex pattern.

Pile weave fabrics have a split, vertical pile on the front surface; is formed from three systems of threads: one pile system and two root systems (warp and weft). The root systems can be plain or twill weave and, due to their high density, they secure and hold the pile well. Cotton pile fabrics: semi-velvet, corduroy - have pile from a pile weft system, which is cut after removal from the loom during the finishing process. Silk pile fabrics: velvet, velor, plush, faux fur on a woven base. It is produced on two linen self-tapping machines with pile from an additional main system. On a weaving loom, two fabrics are simultaneously produced, which are connected to each other by a pile system. As the fabric is produced, a high-speed knife cuts the pile system and forms two identical pile fabrics. Pile weaves give fabrics good heat-shielding properties, but complicate processing in the sewing industry. When cutting and WTO, it is necessary to take into account the direction of the pile in the products. In such fabrics the pile should go from bottom to top, and in coat fabrics - from top to bottom.

A type of pile weave is looped(terry) recaptivity, which have pile in the form of loops. Fabrics are produced that are used to make bathrobes and sheets, as well as some decorative fabrics.

Leno (lace) has translucent cells. The simplest leno weave consists of three systems of threads: two warps and one weft. The leno base wraps around the standing base, first on one side, then on the other. Such openwork weaves are highly transparent. They are used for the production of cotton, silk, blouse, shirt and dress fabrics, curtains, and technical fabrics.

4. Large patterned

Large-patterned weaves are formed by combining various simple weaves of warp and weft threads. The size and shape of the pattern can be extremely varied:

floral and geometric patterns;

compositions;

plot thematic drawings.

It is possible to produce various fabrics, as well as portraits, carpets, tapestries, paintings, bedspreads, and tablecloths. Large-patterned weaves are divided into two subclasses: simple and complex.

Simple ones consist of two systems of threads and are used to produce cotton fabrics, satin - jacquard, Damask. For silk fabrics: Alpaca, Dudun, Moscow, Vesna and Yubileinaya. Woolen dress fabrics, linen tablecloths, napkins, decorated fabrics.

Complex ones consist of three or more thread systems and are used to make tapestries and carpets.

The interweaving of two mutually perpendicular systems of warp and weft threads is called weaving, or weaving of fabric. The warp threads are located along the fabric, the weft threads are located across. The warp and weft threads bend around each other or overlap several threads of another system at once, located either on the front or on the wrong side of the fabric. The different sequence of weaving the warp and weft threads will create a variety of patterns on the surface of the fabric. This is how weaves form appearance fabrics. Weaves also affect the properties of fabrics. The more often the threads intertwine, moving from the front side of the fabric to the back and back, the stronger they are connected to each other, the stiffer the structure of the fabric and the greater its strength. Threads with frequent bends give the surface of the fabric a matte finish; threads with long overlaps make it smooth, shiny, slippery. Fabrics with long overlaps are more resistant to abrasion, but they fray more easily when cut.

A graphic representation of the weave of a fabric is called a weave pattern. Sketching of weaving is done on checkered paper. It is conventionally accepted to consider each vertical row of cells as a warp thread, and each horizontal row as a weft thread. Each cell represents the intersection of warp and weft threads and is called an overlap. If the main thread extends to the front side of the fabric, the overlap is called the main thread and is shaded when sketching. If a weft thread comes out on the front side of the fabric, the overlap is called weft and is left unshaded when sketching.
The overlaps alternate in a certain sequence in each warp row and in each weft row, forming the same repeating pattern on the surface of the fabric, which is called rapport and is designated by the letter R.

There is rapport based on the warp Ro, and rapport based on the weft Rу. Warp rapport is equal to the number of warp threads that make up the weave pattern. Weft rapport is correspondingly equal to the number of weft threads in the weave pattern. On a weave pattern, repeat is usually indicated in the lower south corner by lines that extend beyond the boundaries of the pattern and, at their intersection, highlight a rectangle or square of the weave pattern, which is repeated along the entire length and width of the fabric.

There are four classes of weaving (Fig. 11):

simple, or main;
finely patterned;
complex;
large-patterned.

Features of simple weaves are as follows:

warp rapport is always equal to weft rapport;
within the rapport, each warp thread is intertwined with the weft thread only once.

Simple weaves include plain, twill, and standard (satin).

Twill weave forms a characteristic scar running diagonally across the fabric from bottom to top from left to right.

Distinctive features of twill weave:

the number of threads in the repeat is at least three (Ro=Ry=3);
With each subsequent insertion of the weft thread, the weaving pattern shifts by one thread.

Twill weave repeat is indicated by a fraction: the numerator shows the number of main overlaps within the repeat, and the denominator shows the number of weft overlaps. The twill repeat is equal to the sum of the digits of the numerator and denominator. If the front surface of a twill weave fabric is dominated by warp threads, the twill is called warp ( rice. 13), for example twill 2/1, 3/1, 4/1, etc. If weft threads predominate on the front surface of the fabric, twill is called weft, for example twill 1/2, 1/3, 1/4.

Twill weave produces a wide variety of fabrics. Warp twill weave is usually used to produce semi-silk lining fabrics, in which the main silk threads are brought out on the right side. Wool-blend fabrics on a cotton base are produced using weft twill weave. The rib in twill weave fabrics on the front surface usually runs from left to right, but in some fabrics it can have the opposite direction (reverse twill weave). The angle of inclination of the hem depends on the repeat of the weave, the thickness of the threads, and the density of the warp and weft. In uniform twill fabrics with warp and weft of the same thickness, the rib usually runs at an angle of 45°.

Features of satin (satin) weave:

with each subsequent insertion of the weft thread, the weaving pattern shifts by at least two threads (and not one, as in plain or twill weave).
Minimum number of threads in repeat (Ro=Ry= 5).

Satin and satin weaves make it possible to give fabrics a smooth, shiny front surface.

The front cover in fabrics with satin weaves is formed from weft threads, in fabrics with satin weaves - from warp threads. For example, in a five-thread satin weave, each weft thread overlaps four of the five warp threads. With each subsequent laying of the weft thread, the overlaps are shifted by two ( rice. 15) or three threads. Satin weave is the negative of satin: each warp thread overlaps four of the five weft threads. The most common are satin and satin with repeats of 5, 8, 10. In eight-thread satins and satins, the shift is equal to three or five threads, in ten-thread satins - three or seven threads.

Sateen and satin weaves produce fabrics such as satin, satin, eraser, corsetry, etc.

Elongated overlaps give these fabrics resistance to friction, but weak fastening of long overlaps in the fabric structure increases their fraying.

Finely patterned weaves are divided into derivatives and combined ones. This is the most numerous class of weaving weaves. Such weaves create simple patterns on fabrics in the form of scars, stripes, herringbones, squares, diamonds, etc. The size of the patterns usually does not exceed 1 cm and depends on the repeat along the warp (up to 24 threads) and the thickness of the warp and weft threads. Unlike simple weaves, in finely patterned weaves the rapports along the warp and weft can be different.

Derivatives of twill weave include reinforced twill, broken twill, reverse twill and compound twill.

TO complex weaves These include double-face, double-layer, piqué, pile, loop and leno. Such fabrics are produced from several (three or more) systems of warp and weft threads. Additional thread systems are introduced during the production of these fabrics to increase thickness, density, and improve heat-shielding properties.

Large patterned weaves have a large repeat and can only be produced on jacquard looms. Drawings of large-patterned weaves are extremely diverse in size, shape, color, theme, subjects: geometric and floral patterns, floral patterns, complex compositions in panels, paintings, tapestries, carpets, etc. Large-patterned weaves are divided into simple and complex.

Simple large patterned weaves are formed from two systems of threads and are used for the production of tablecloths, napkins, linen and semi-linen towels and a diverse range of fabrics: cotton damask, satin jacquard; silk damask, alpaca, tavar, dudun, damask, brocade; woolen dress and some coat fabrics; linen curtains, decorative, elegant linen, etc.
Complex large-patterned weaves are formed from three or more systems of threads and can have patterns of various textures: pile, loop, relief, flat multi-color, etc. Complex large-patterned weaves are used to produce carpets, tapestries, pique bedspreads, furniture and decorative fabrics, and a diverse range of fabrics for clothing.