Bezel on a wristwatch. We disassemble the watch How to remove the bezel from an Orient watch

The bezel on a watch can be fixed or rotating. A fixed or fixed bezel is a design element and can serve as a protective function for the glass. Manufacturers often decorate the lunette with beautiful engravings, inlaid precious stones, give an unusual shape.

The mechanism in the rotating bezel can be single-sided or double-sided. Dive watches are only equipped with a bezel with a one-way mechanism. This is done for safety purposes so that the diver does not accidentally increase the threshold of time for which he can remain underwater.

How to use the bezel on a watch?

In addition to being useful for divers, a watch bezel has many other uses, let's take a closer look at why a watch needs a bezel and how to use it.

Timer bezel

To record the time, you need to turn the bezel until the mark on it coincides with the minute value that you expect to occur. Then all that remains is to track whether the minute hand has reached the mark or not yet.

Compass bezel

The bezel acts as a compass, it is an auxiliary device that only slightly simplifies the calculations of cardinal directions and can make them more accurate. Such a bezel wristwatch is a simple ring with cardinal directions marked, which can be rotated. The steady itself does not point to anything unless it is positioned in the right direction. In fact, this is a marketing ploy from watch manufacturers; such a bezel-compass looks very beautiful and solid, but there is little point in it if you do not have certain skills in orienteering.

Bezel with tachymeter

Tachymert (“Tachymeter”) translated from Greek means “quickly”, “I measure”. The tachymeter scale consists of special notches applied to the rotating bezel, and is used to determine the speed of movement and count the number of cycles of actions performed. This type of movement is only available on watches with a chronograph system. This functionality works in semi-automatic mode; to perform the calculation, you need to know the distance in advance.

For example, at the beginning of a segment you press the start of your chronograph, and at the end of a kilometer segment, you stop it. The stopwatch hand will indicate your average speed on the tachymeter scale.

Bezel with world time function

World time in wristwatches (GTM function, “Greenwich Mean Time”) is a rotating bezel with a scale of time zones (1-24) or cities printed on it. There is also the concept of UTC (Universal Time Coordinated) - universal coordinated time, a modern version of GMT adjusted for more accurate atomic time. Watches with World Time function usually have "GMT"/"UTC"/"Dual time" written on the watch face.

The world time function on the dial will be useful for travelers and businessmen.

Bezel with slide rule

The circular slide rule consists of a ruler on the bezel and a ruler on the dial, which allows you to perform a number of mathematical operations. Using this scale is quite simple; you just need to turn the bezel until the bezel values ​​coincide with the desired number on the dial.

Continuation. Part two.

So, we've gone through the first part. We got a little tools. The places where the instrument grows have been explored. We have prepared a workplace for ourselves. And in general - while we were doing all this - we had a good walk through the air and got to know the hot spots and surroundings better. The first part involved quite a lot of movement and attentiveness when hiking - you had to SEARCH. What to look for - FSE! Everything is interesting and, to our still untrained eye, something that can be useful to us and unusual. Somewhat reminiscent of plushness. What is the result:

Tool. Which? First screwdrivers, then tweezers. These include a binocular magnifying glass, brushes, Petri dishes and needles. We got some oil. Yes, at least for sewing machines. Well there is no other. We believe that we have nothing more. NO. All. We make do with this primitive set. But without it, you shouldn’t start.

We collected carcasses of hours.

Different. Old ones. Wrist. We just collected mechanisms for spare parts.

They took indiscriminately, everything that was cheaper than the cost of half a pack of cheap cigarettes. This is their price. Half a pack of Belomor or Prima. Trolleybus fare. They shouldn't cost more. Regardless of the condition - intact or broken. There are only two criteria. The first one is mandatory - not rusty. The second is desirable - that they be assembled (all parts are in place) - regardless of integrity. Trash. Let's sort. What do we have?

Women's wrists.

- Star. Old ones. Barrel-shaped mechanism caliber 18 mm. Allegedly, in prehistoric times the French brought it to us and assembled the LIP plant. So these are all French.

- Zarya- Penza Watch Factory

-Gull- standard small mechanisms, quite old, but durable

- Glory- newer mechanisms

Many other names. All Soviet. THE USSR. Apparently the state cared about the working class - it produced watches. So that they are not late for work. Maybe.

Men's wrist watch.

- Victory. Moscow. Lighthouse. Many watches were produced under these names. We're not talking about watches. About mechanisms.

There are basically 2 types of mechanisms.

- “high” mechanism - for example 1MChZ - “Moscow”. Central seconds hand. Most watches were assembled at its base, including the famous “Sports”. They stopped when the crown was pulled out. Ersatz stopwatch. Older type of mechanism. We don’t name the technical caliber - there’s no point. It is still impossible to order parts for the caliber.

- “low” mechanism - more modern. Side seconds hand.

In both the first and second cases, different factories produced a bunch of modifications of mechanisms - with improvements, simplifications, rationalizations. Suggestions. There were also a bunch of types of exterior decoration. Satisfied the discerning consumer.

In addition, there is a complete rainbow of other watch movements:

Slava - 2 types of mechanisms, self-winding and non-self-winding. It was indicated somewhere on the Internet that it was a prototype of LIP-T-15. The French again.

Complicated watch

With alarm clock

Chronometer

For the blind

Our task is to learn how to disassemble and assemble. Then everyone will go their own way. One will only disassemble. Another will collect 50% and then - as they get bored or peacefully throw it in the trash (usually habits - vodka-dancing will overpower), others - out of anger that it doesn’t work out - hit the anvil with a hammer. Still others will calmly take it apart again, put it aside for a couple of days and try again. This is a normal form of behavior for such an unusual hobby - precision mechanics.

Let's start with a simpler direction - men's wristwatches. They are larger than women's ones. You can see them better without a microscope. An example is “low” Victory. For us it is the simplest. “High” is more difficult for the first time. The clock circuit is basically identical for all single-platinum watches. Therefore, you just need to understand and remember a few simple circuits. For the first training, just sketch what we are analyzing.

Frame:

Back cover.

There are several types of back covers. The only difference is in the manner of closing.

Slamming. A distinctive feature is that usually, upon careful examination, you can find a flat into which the knife is driven in order to open it with strong pressure. In modern electronic consumer goods, a similar lid is very often practiced, but with grooves, as if for unscrewing - a good joke. If you don’t know, then at least shoot yourself - you won’t be able to unscrew it.

A flat in the glass ring. This is not a cover.

More modern solution- protrusion in the lid.

And the knife just drives in here

Screw, with a screw ring or with a thread on the lid itself.

Or so - edges are visible along the edge of the lid.

We unscrew the first option either with the largest tailor's scissors (they are tougher) or with the sharpened jaws of an old caliper. At flea markets, keys like this can often be found lying around in debris.

A branded key (purchased in the most ordinary store for modellers - models of steam locomotives, cars, etc. in Germany) looks like this.

A rather rare option in Soviet watches is a bayonet mount. It turns at a slight angle and opens.

Bayonet lock on the lid

So, the clock was opened. What we see is dirt.

A lot of dirt. We immediately say that we will not deal with rusty watches. There's no chance. Nothing can be done - everything must be changed. Install a new one or sharpen a new one. It's too early for us.

Main parts of the mechanism

I - balance.

II - Wheel system

III - mainspring (maybe two - in Slava)

IV - ratchet - there can also be several types.

What we do first - while the mechanism is in the case - lower the mainspring. If the head is preserved in the carcass and can be turned (it is worn down to the base), we try to turn it slightly towards the factory and look at the ratchet. It should turn slightly and slip a couple of teeth. This is what we need - we use a needle to support it in the retracted state and, without jerking, let the crown turn and release the spring, slightly releasing the crown between the fingers.

Immediately place at least 2 Petri dishes in front of you. Or white plates or dishes with a smooth, flat bottom. Diameter 15-20 cm. I use Petri dishes. They are easier to cover during breaks.

We take out the crown. To do this, you need to press the latch with a needle.

We take the mechanism out of the case. Sometimes this is done towards the back cover. In our case it is the other way around. The ring with glass is removed and the mechanism is pulled out to the side of the dial.

We remove the arrows

A minute in general is simple - even with a screwdriver

Hours and seconds are already a bit of an adventure. Tool - a piece was torn out of the relay (there was some kind of electric relay - the material on the contact groups is exactly what we need - hard and thin. Folded it - and there is the tool we need)

Unscrew the balance. The size (caliber) of the screwdriver must match the size of the screw.

The screw was unscrewed and how can this whole assembly be lifted? - and it usually has special grooves into which you can insert a screwdriver and separate the balance plate from the base.

We take the balance like this.

We gradually put everything into Petri dishes.

Unscrew the screws of the mainspring block. There is one trick in the watch - if the screw has many grooves, it means it has a left-hand thread.

Under the dial there is an assembly of hand wheels (I) and an assembly for winding and moving the crown from the winding position to the position for moving the hands (II) (scientifically called a remontoire). Let's sort it out.

We are filming a minute trib. This is the only unit in the watch where force is required. Pull hard enough. If we missed it, we'll repeat it. It always comes off with effort. The main thing is not to be afraid.

When disassembling the pointer shift assembly (repair), pay special attention to the spring.

It has a nasty property - it clicks and flies away in an unknown direction. There is a simple trick against this - we cover (press) it all lightly with just a finger and carefully “snap” it out from under the finger with a needle.

We put everything in a Petri dish

Now the longest and neatest part. Washing.

We take a shallow bowl. We pour gasoline there. And wash it. Brush and toothpicks. To shine. So that no dirt remains.

For small mechanisms - a squirrel brush. Tougher. For large mechanisms - alarm clocks, pocket watches - you can try soft art brushes for oil paints.

Drying: first put it on after gasoline paper napkin. I usually take a piece of heavy cardboard and place a piece of paper towel on it. So that it does not jump and jump. Select napkins and towels according to the criterion - the less lint, the better.

Let the gasoline soak in. Let's just put it there. Then we take the parts with tweezers and blow air from a rubber bulb (enema) to blow gasoline out of the holes. And so, in sequence, all the elements of the clock that lie in a Petri dish or on an improvised “drying rack”. Knot by node. What we mean is this: if you unscrew the platinum and with it - 3 screws - put them together. We consider “this is our node.” So as not to confuse screws and parts. We put them in the same places in the Petri dish. Or better yet, into a clean cup. The old one will then be washed and wiped. This is if we don’t expect to collect it quickly. Or we collect it “from the sheet” - from a napkin. But this is subject to a certain experience, skill and speed of work. Balance. While we don’t have much experience, we don’t analyze it. So we push the platinum-spiral-balance block into a bath of gasoline and simply rinse it in gasoline for a long time. Clearly this is wrong. Everything needs to be taken apart, etc. - WE DO NOT HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE YET. We'll gut it for 5-10 hours, and then we'll look at the balance. How he understands it. Read books. And do it according to wise books (if it is described in detail there).

A note about the mainspring. We don't do anything. Just wipe the outside with a napkin. Clean the teeth with a brush. We're not doing anything else for now. We'll have fun with disassembly, lubrication, assembly and spring replacement next time. No experience yet. It's difficult.

And now more intellectual work - to assemble the resulting puzzle

Everything is done in the following order:

Mainspring

Wheel system. Let's have a little fun too. We placed the gears in the lower stones. They covered it with the platinum, and then we need to move the upper platinum in all directions with tweezers until the upper axes of the gears hit the stones. A little tedious, but doable. Sometimes you can try to help the process with a thin needle to move the gears that you can reach. The basic rule is NO VIOLENCE. Everything should be done without any effort. Everything by itself “clicks” into place over time and the plate noticeably “falls” down. A clock mechanism is a rather thin thing, the forces are very small, the loss of forces during operation is also very small, accordingly, it cannot be assembled on tight fits - THEY CANNOT BE BY DEFINITION. If the upper platinum does not sit in place, the gear is not seated in the stones. Or while we were moving all this, it jumped out of the lower stone. We repeat once again - THERE CANNOT BE EFFORT! A criterion for correct assembly may be the following: slightly turn the mainspring drum. ONLY SLIGHTLY - all gears should start to turn. This is all - almost effortlessly on the winding drum.

Putting the anchor plug in place

Let's put the balance in place.

Lubricate the stones from above - from the side of the back cover. To do this, we use homemade oil dosage.

We turn the mechanism over and lubricate all the stones on the dial side. Assembling the crown mechanism.

Spring. Another adventure. We press it all with a wide screwdriver. We thread the needle into place. Springs are probably the most disgusting thing in all this work. They're galloping. And we will suffer with them a) until we train our hands and b) until we collect carcasses of watches from which we will drag spare parts without a twinge of conscience.

They put it in place. We're not breathing. What if he jumps out?

Assembling the arrow wheels. We firmly press the minute tube onto the gear axis. How? Yes, whatever comes to hand is approximately suitable. That's how we filmed it and we'll put it on. We resist. You will have to press the trib hard until it clicks.

Lubricate. What is there to lubricate - if you have assembled this puzzle - figured it out - then you will also have to think about lubrication and lubricate it yourself. The basic rule is to lubricate only with oil dosage and to a minimum. All rubbing parts are lubricated. Platinum must be dry. That's why it's a recess in the stones - so that the oil doesn't spread beyond it. We do not lubricate the stones of the anchor fork. It's too early. A microscope is needed.

We set the dial.

We put the mechanism into the housing.

Press the crown lock and put it in place. Let's start it up. Let's enjoy it. DONE!!! YOURSELF!!!

Bogdan Yasinetsky

[email protected]

Many people who have sports or military watches are interested in the question: why do you need a bezel on a watch? and how to use the watch bezel. In this article we will figure it out. So what is a bezel?.

The bezel (lunette, dial) is a rim around the dial that can rotate in one (counterclockwise) or both directions. It has a minute scale and cardinal directions on it. The bezel is used in military watches (for example), and sports watches. Sometimes the bezel is decorative, that is, it is made to give a certain style to the watch and may not rotate.

How to use the bezel.

The bezel has minute divisions and a numeric value. At the 0 or 60 minute mark there is a mark in the form of a triangle or a dot colored red (yellow). Let me give you an example of the practical use of a bezel. So you came on vacation to Turkey and, of course, decided to admire the underwater world, fortunately they offer it on every corner.

You were brought to the diving station, given instructions, put on equipment and now you are a diver. Looking at your hand, you will notice a watch with a rotating bezel.

The air in the tank is enough for 30 minutes of swimming underwater. Now the time is 15:30, which means we need to start ascent at 15:55. But so that, while admiring the underwater beauties, you don’t have to keep all these numbers in your head and there is a bezel. So, we turn it so that the mark coincides with the 55th minute on the dial. Now you know when the minute hand reaches this mark, you need to end your dive. This is where I end. You can also watch a video about how to use the bezel. Good luck to you in your sporting achievements.

Watch the video

The Chistopol watch factory was founded in 1941 in the city of Chistopol. The equipment arrived from Moscow from the evacuated Second Moscow Watch Factory. Already in the spring of 1942, the plant began producing military devices. The enterprise worked for the needs of the front and was a closed facility. Since 1943, ChChZ began producing civilian products; the first men's wristwatches, “Kirovskie,” were produced. IN post-war years The plant began the development, production and release of new models of watches “ZiM”, “Volga”, “Pobeda”, “Vostok”, “Mir”, “Volna”, “Saturn”, “Cosmos”, ship clocks, and others. Subsequently, the plant became the main supplier to the USSR Ministry of Defense, and then the “Commander” and “Amphibian” watches with a water resistance of 200 meters were created. Since the 70s, the plant began producing 24xx caliber wristwatches with calendars and automatic winding. Today the factory is bankrupt, and watches are produced by subsidiaries.

The watch was delivered with a defect: “something is loose inside and does not work”

We take the mechanism out of the case and see

balls, from the ball bearing of the automatic winding sector, they are not all here, there are 2 more balls in the mechanism itself.

We disassemble the automatic winding mechanism and remove the drum with the spring.

Remove the balance and anchor fork.

The watch is disassembled and ready for washing. Cleanliness is the key to health, and especially for watches.

The old automatic winding sector (with a crumbling bearing) and the new one.

The mechanism parts are washed and it can be assembled.

We assemble the drum and lubricate the spring.

While checking the parts for defects, I discovered that the intermediate wheel blade was bent.

We insert the wheel into the caliper and straighten it.

After straightening, we assemble the main wheel system and check the wheel slope.

We install the drum, cam and winding clutch and winding shaft.

Cover with a drum bridge and screw it on.

We lubricate and install the anchor fork, and check its operation.

We establish balance.

We install the bushings (balance bearings and shockproof device at the same time) and secure them with lyres (three-leaf springs).

And for verification.

After setup, the watch runs great!

Good afternoon. Another review on an hour-long topic. In the review there are a couple of purchases for decorating watches, namely the Vostok Amphibian watch.
Read on for those interested:
I won’t write anything about my Amphibian, the administration has already killed one review :) Well, oh well... In general, I had and still have :) Amphibian, there is no point in describing the watch, they are quite famous. The watch is in case 090, the so-called “new barrel” and dial number 659.
The watch came into my hands as standard, on a rattling Chinese bracelet :) The bracelet looks beautiful and many people wear it and are happy, but we are not looking for easy ways.

Purchase No. 1 The so-called Mesh bracelet.
I stupidly bought the cheapest one on Ali (I bought it for 8.3 USD, now this seller is a couple of dollars more expensive) (link:) In general, I decided to show reasonable economy, the watch is not expensive, it would be strange to put it on a bracelet that is more expensive than the watch itself . The bracelet arrived quite quickly, but was longer than necessary by 5 rows. Anyone who has come across these bracelets knows that they are adjustable within +-0.5 cm due to 3 holes on the latch. The excess needs to be cut off. Work for people with both a stable psyche and some physical strength. I armed myself with a tool
and got down to business. The bracelet is strong, you can bite through steel, but with the help of a tool, someone’s mother and a little trained in gym I managed it in about 20 minutes. The original pins are quite thick, diver-type, and didn’t want to fit into the bracelet, so I had to choose a little thinner ones, fortunately I have a lot of this stuff. I put the bracelet on, I like the result so far, see photo below.

Purchase No. 2 Steel bezel (link in the header).
Replacing the bezel with another made of steel was initially on the agenda. For those who don’t know, the original bezel looks like this: The original bezel is quite nice, and if you wear the watch carefully, it won’t peel off for a long time, but I immediately saw a Pepsi-style bezel on the watch, and I really wanted just that. There were three options to choose from:
- German from a famous site (4)20
- with a fine side notch, insert from Seiko from Ebay like: :g:ZQoAAOSwMpZUnw18
- from an Israeli friend with a large side notch, an insert from Seiko from Ebay, link in the header. Pepsi on this moment ran out, although you can buy a Seiko insert separately, size Large. I settled on option 3, for some reason I liked it more, I don’t regret it. The bezel was paid to an Israeli seller, and sent from Ukraine :)
The bezel was also subject to some abuse. The old bezel was carefully removed using an old knife, it is just carefully picked out. The new bezel was complete with a spring, steel in contrast to the original one made of yellow metal. The spring was tucked into the groove, but the bezel did not snap into place on the watch. I fucked for about 20 minutes, I even started sweating. Then I read the statements smart people, who advised to snap the bezel not stupidly from top to bottom, but as if applying force in a circle and rotating this force :) In short, everything worked out. The bezel sits tighter than its original counterpart and rotates with unfeminine effort. With the new bezel, the watch has been transformed, the steel bezel will last forever, it will not peel off, the insert can be changed, there are many of them on sale at prices starting from 6 USD.
Photo of the watch without bezel:

Photo of what happened with the new bezel and bracelet