Sew a wireless corset with your own hands. Sewing a corset: master class

Master class from a non-professional amateur

We sew this corset:

To sew a corset with your own hands we need:

• Lining fabric (I used thick cotton fabric)
• Top fabric (I used stretch cotton satin)
• Regilin
• Dolevik or grosgrain ribbon
• eyelets for lacing holes

I sewed a regular modeling corset, not tight, because... I don’t really have anything to pull off. For a tightening corset, you need to use more durable regilin, whalebone or special metal bones.

1. We cut out the details of the corset using ready-made patterns. I decided to change the model a little and make the top straight (see picture). Don't forget to transfer the marks onto the fabric. It is very important to correctly position the parts relative to the grain thread, otherwise you will get an unsightly distortion of the fabric on the finished product.

1. Baste all the details from the lining fabric. The marks along the waist line should match.

1. Now you definitely need to do the first fitting. Help someone pin the lining together at the back. Since the corset must fit snugly to the body, it is very important now to adjust the details to the figure. My measurements are a little short of size 44, so in some places I removed excess fabric in the seams. If you are sewing a slimming corset, you can remove even more. Just don't overdo it!
2. Sew the lining details. In especially kinky places, make notches close to the seams.
3. Repeat steps 3-4 to sew from the top fabric. Sew the seams at a distance of 0.5 cm. Press.
4. Take the regilin and cut strips 1-1.5 cm shorter than the length of the seam being reinforced. Melt the ends of the regilin strips on both sides with a match. This must be done, otherwise, during wearing, thin needles made of regilin tape (resembling a thick fishing line) will come out and not only ruin the fabric, but will also painfully prick the skin.

1. Stitch the regillin with a zigzag stitch along the line of each seam on the lining. If you want a little more rigidity, make 2 strips of regilin for each seam, placing them to the left and right of the seam. Regilin should not come close to the top and bottom lines, let it remain approximately 0.5 cm.

Sew 2 more strips of regilin along the cut under the fastener. If you use eyelets or loops, these strips will add the necessary rigidity and prevent the fabric from distorting at lacing tension points.

1. Take the piece and stitch it exactly along the waistline onto the lining fabric. I used grosgrain ribbon instead of a dolevik. In principle, it does not matter whether it is located on the front or back side. I sewed it to the front one. Why is it needed? So that the tightened corset you put on (in any case, it will be stretched at least a little) is not crossed by transverse ugly folds.

1. Place the top and lining pieces right sides together and baste along the top line of the corset. Turn it inside out and try it on.

1. During the fitting, I realized that the oval bottom line did not suit me, and I decided to make it straight like the top edge of the corset. So I basted the bottom along the new marked hem line. In this case, the regilin had to be torn off a little, trimmed and scorched again. I turned it inside out and tried it on. After fitting, I sewed stitched seams along the top and bottom lines. I cut off the allowances at a distance of 0.5 cm.

1. All that remains is to process the clasp. If you are sewing a non-constrictive corset, you can use a strong zipper. If tightening is expected or you want to use lacing, then install eyelets or loops. I decided to use eyelets. To do this, I simply ironed the seam allowances along the edge of the corset inward and stitched close to the edge.

1. If you remember, I sewed 2 strips of regilin at a distance of 1.5-2 cm from each other along the edge of the corset. Now you need to stitch along the second line to secure the lining relative to the top. Install the eyelets along the edge, placing them between the strips of regilin.

This is what I ended up with.

Back view. My measurements are slightly smaller than the standard size 44, so on the mannequin there is a distance between the edges of the corset. The corset fits me without this gap.

You can stitch the corset along the top and bottom lines, or you can leave it like that, just iron it well.

According to astrologers, the coming year will be the Year of the Black Snake, and it is recommended to celebrate it in outfits that emphasize the figure. And nothing does this better than an elegant corset. Especially if it is sewn under the guidance of a real professional corsetmaker. This is exactly what our master class today will be. Are you ready to go yet?

Master Class. Sewing a simple corset

Kozorovitskaya Tatiana: “For this model, dense cotton fabric is used. Therefore, additional gluing of the parts is not required. For the face of the corset and for the lining, I will use the same fabric so that the density and stretch of the material is the same on both the face and the lining. Corset patterns are prepared with seam allowances (mine are 1.2 cm)."

By the way! If you liked this master class and want to know even more about corsets and wedding dresses, then pay attention to the excellent video course on DVD “Opaque corsets 2.0”. Learning from video is much more effective!

Paying attention! When laying this line, under no circumstances should you turn the product on the needle. Start the stitch from the edge of the product and continue to the end, to the other edge. The intersections of these lines in the corners should be clearly visible.

You can measure the approximate length of the bone, round the end and sew it on. Or you can start sewing on a straight bone, reach the rounded area, cut off the bone with a margin of 7-8 cm, gather and form a semicircle, continue sewing and at the end cut off the excess and cover it with tape. At the end of the line, make a bartack.

I retreat 1 mm from the control line line. I attach the first line along the edge of the bone. At the end I cut it, glue it and hide it under a horizontal bone.

I'm making a pin. I put a second line on the other side of the bone.

This is an important point! Because Subsequently, the bones will become drawstrings for pushing through reinforcing metal (spiral) or plastic bones. And the seam allowance should not wrinkle inside the drawstring.

Important point! Under the organza, in the places of rounding, try to slightly adjust the neckline of the corset for a good fit to the chest and to prevent stretching during wear.

I sew each seam from the edge of the product to the other edge. It is strictly forbidden to turn the needle! When turning the needle, the shape becomes distorted and the sides will not be symmetrical.

Corset- This is a wardrobe item that can make your figure almost perfect. In the Middle Ages, the corset was very popular; with its help, girls “made” their waist look like hourglass. The ladies of the court tightened their corsets so much that they could not breathe, so most fainted at balls. Modern corset is not underwear and you don’t need helpers to tighten it - you can adjust it yourself.

The corset has always been in fashion, the present is no exception. The corset gives your posture straightness and lightness, the girl stops slouching. Today, the popularity of corsets has increased sharply, so most girls buy dresses with corsets in stores or sew corsets themselves.

Sew a corset yourself- not so simple. This is a rather labor-intensive process that requires a lot of effort and patience.

How to sew a corset with your own hands?

You will need:

Instructions:

• Decide on the era for which you want to sew a costume and make a corset pattern.
• Print the pattern in full size in your size.
• Attach the pattern pieces to the fabric from which you will sew the corset. Trace the pattern details with chalk. Cut out the pieces from the fabric.

• Finish the edges and baste the pieces. Try the corset on yourself.
• If the piece fits well, you can start sewing the corset. Sew the parts on the sewing machine and start working with the drawstrings. Place the drawstrings where the bones will be inserted. Leave the bottom edges of the drawstrings unstitched to allow insertion of the boning.
• Insert the bones and sew the bottom edges of the drawstrings. Lace up your corset using a pretty lace or ribbon. Holes for lacing are made with a special stapler for fabric.
• The finished corset can be decorated with rhinestones, bows, beads, embroidery and other decorative elements.

How to sew a corset for a dress with your own hands?

You will need:

Instructions:

• Decide on the color and shape of the corset.
• Measure your parameters: hips, waist, chest and side height. Make a corset pattern.
• Using the pattern, cut out the corset piece from lining fabric. Smooth out the fabric.
• Cut out the corset pieces from the outer fabric.
• Sew all the pieces together: separately from the lining fabric and separately from the outer fabric. When all the parts are sewn, press the seams with an iron - this will avoid unnecessary wrinkles. Sew the lining and outer fabric together so that all seams match. Sew both fabric patterns and iron them.
• Make channels for the bones - in this case, the lines of the lining and outer fabric should coincide with each other as much as possible.
• Sew a beautiful border on top of the front side of the corset and wrap it on the wrong side of the corset. Iron the resulting edge. Insert the seeds into the resulting tubules. Sew the border as you did on the bottom of the corset.
• Sew hooks to the corset - these will be fasteners. If necessary, decorative decorations can be sewn onto the corset. If not, then leave the corset as is.
• Now all that remains is to sew the skirt to the corset, and the dress will be ready!

It’s difficult to sew a corset with your own hands, but it’s possible. The main thing is not to give up what you started and not to get upset if you do something wrong the first time. As in any other matter, sewing a corset with your own hands requires some experience, which comes with every new product.

Especially for LadySpecial.ru - Misnik Svetlana

The corset has long ceased to be a part of underwear. Now this is a sexy and fashionable addition to the image, through which you can adjust your appearance. This thing is quite labor-intensive. It may not be suitable for beginner tailors. But if you already have experience in making clothes, we will help you put it into practice. Today we will teach you how to sew a corset with your own hands.

The ancient corset makers had their own secrets for making this thing. Over time, you will develop yours, you just need time and experience. The most important thing in this process is the choice of model. Having decided on it, you can start cutting out the pattern.

There are two ways:

• Dummy. The fabric is pinned directly to the figure, so this method takes longer. But the calculations are accurate and all the features of the model’s figure are taken into account.
• Settlement. It is necessary to take measurements, their number will depend on the chosen style. We measure: chest, hips, waist. All these dimensions are taken into account by half. Next, measure the height of the sides (from the waist to the armpits).

There is no need to mercilessly tighten yourself into a corset. Scientists have long proven that this is harmful to health. Modern corsets no longer use whalebone, so they have become soft and less dangerous. Currently, they are worn both as an independent part of the toilet and as the top part of a dress. If you cannot find the style you need, and the color and texture do not please you, we suggest sewing a corset yourself.

Choose the main and lining fabric. Both should be durable and hold their shape well. We also need:

• Bones (steel or spiral)
• Pins
• Scissors
• Threads
• Eyelets
• Paper
• Pencil
• Lacing
• Hole punch for fabric
• Tape meter

Manufacturing:

1. We are making a pattern. We choose one of the measuring methods that we described above, take the necessary measurements and build a pattern according to our template. We number the details of the drawing and mark the top and bottom parts. Before sewing, it is better to soak the fabric in warm water so that it “shrinks”.
   
2. We cut out the paper parts and lay them out on four layers of inner fabric. We cut out the fabric, connect the pieces, and sew a grosgrain ribbon along the waist line. In this form you can try on the corset.
3. We try it on, make adjustments, clarify the cut lines.
4. We design the upper part of the corsage according to the pattern. We draw new lines with chalk and cut off the allowances one centimeter at a time. We align all the cuts, cut off the excess, rip out the finished parts and iron them. We attach the patterns to the outer fabric and cut out new parts.
5. We cut out the front patterns and pieces for the back, 4 pieces each. We will no longer need the same parts from the inner fabric. We additionally glue the sections of the upper fabric with an adhesive pad and calico. We cut off the calico allowances, iron the seams, sew a grosgrain ribbon to the inner panel, and place it strictly along the waist.
6. We use a broken stitch to mark the fastener. Here we will insert the busk bar along with the loops. We make holes for the eyelets with a punch.
7. We sew the parts along the middle of the back, turn them inside out and make sure that all the reliefs match. We insert bones into the side seams, having previously sewn drawstrings for them. We do this through all layers using a sewing machine. We combine and pin the seams on the lining, stitch them. In this case, additional drawstrings are easier to perform. For examples, see the photo of the corset:
8. We insert the bones between two layers of fabric. We fasten the breast cups manually. You can make additional pockets inside and insert pads there to add volume.
   
9. We trim the cuts and trim the edges with binding made from the same fabric. We attach it on both sides and iron it.
10. We make the lacing from waxed cord, pierce the holes with a punch. Sew the grosgrain ribbon to the seam allowances and leave it like that. We sew another bone under the lacing and place it in the seam of the drawstring.
11. Finally, you can decorate with lace or any other trim. Wear it with pleasure!

Tip: If you are taking on sewing a corset for the first time, we recommend that you make a trial version from cheap fabrics. This way you will get the hang of it and avoid possible errors.

A corset is the only thing that can give you a perfect hourglass figure. This tutorial will show you how to make your own corset from start to finish. Please note that this is not a correct historical corset, the bodice boning is a bit simplified. Your corset won't have all the touches and details that professional makers can do, but it's perfect for big parties, maybe basic part suit or evening dress. Happy sewing!

Sewing a corset with your own hands

Step 1. Material

For this corset you will need:

Materials:

Outer fabric of your choice (not too thin, otherwise the bones may pop out, for example, I used raw silk);

Fabric for lining. Coutile (special cotton for corsets) is ideal, but any strong (non-stretch) woven cotton fabric will work;

Spiral/steel boning (20 pieces for this corset);

Binding fabric;

Lacing loops;

Lacing.

Tools:

Rivet insertion tool/hammer;

Sewing machine (which, of course, is obvious!);

Rotary knife and bedding for it;

Hole punch for fabric/leather.

Step 2. Select a template

Selecting a template is the most important part of the process. There are endless ways to do this.

The first thing to consider is what kind of corset shape you want: how much do you want to tighten your waist (if at all)? What should the shape around the bust be (more like a dress neckline or curvy like a bra)? Historical model or something more modern? For example, I made this corset shorter than lingerie, more suitable for an evening top, and it is not intended to tighten my waist.

Once you have chosen or made a pattern, the first thing you should do is sew the design using muslin. Using cheap fabrics will allow you to understand where and how to make the main seams, try it on and realize how it fits you, and redo it if it fails (a kind of “rough” work). In fact, making a corset takes quite a lot of time, and if you immediately make a “finish” piece, it will be very difficult to redo mistakes. So this is a very important step, especially if you are making a corset for the first time.

Step 3. About the bones

Just a little clarification about corset boning.

What not to use:

If you go to a fabric store, you will most likely find cheap plastic bones. DO NOT use them. They twist and bend. Avoid them!

What to use:

It is better to use steel and spiral bones. Steel boning can be used on the sides or back where there are no crooked seams. Spiral bones are typically used for curved seams as they will contour to fit the corset seams and can also act as clasps. In these instructions I only used spiral bones because that's what I had on hand, but in theory most wires should be steel because... Only the front seams in the bust area are a little curved.

What length to buy:

You can cut the pits yourself, but if you already have a template, you'll save yourself a lot of trouble purchasing the right size pits. You'll want to buy boning that's about 2cm shorter than the corset's seams, otherwise they'll stand out too much in the fabric and will likely rip after a few tries (or after the first one, as happened to me with my first corset).

Step 4: Cut Your Fabric

Because The template pieces are mirror images of each other, you can fold your fabric in half and cut out both sides of the corset at once. I always leave a 1cm seam allowance.

It is better to make a larger seam allowance, because when you sew, these additional layers will overlap each other, cover the underwires more reliably and add strength to the corset itself.

You need to cut one template from the outer fabric, and one for the lining fabric.

As a final step, cut two pieces of binding fabric for the back (where the lacing will be) and press.

Step 5: Sew all the pieces together

Sew all the outer fabric scraps together.

Do the same with the lining fabric.

Once all of the outer and lining fabric pieces are sewn together, press the waist and bust seams as needed using an iron.

It's important to iron them well enough so that you don't get any unnecessary wrinkles or excess when you sew.

Step 6. Connect the outer part of the fabric to the lining

Lay the lining and facing fabrics side by side with their right sides touching and sew them together along the back seam allowance. Turn them over and iron them again.

Step 7. Sew the pit tubules

Now comes the fun part! Get ready to use your sewing machine. This step will take time. Be careful to make sure the front and back fabric lines are exactly level.

In this corset, I inserted boning on either side of each seam, plus one along the back on either side. I usually start in the middle of the corset and work in both directions in relation to the spine, so that even if there is a discrepancy in how the seam line lines up, it will look more even compared to working from one side to the other.

Sew the tubules for the bones:

For each seam line, I sew the fabric first, joining the outside and inside seams as close together as possible. Sew the first of these seams slowly, making sure that the seam lines of the outer and lining fabric are as evenly aligned as possible.

I usually line them up by touch, but if this is too difficult for you, you can pin these seams together first.

After you have sewn the inside side with two seams in close proximity to the main seam, you need to sew the outside side of each channel. In order for the bone to sit in the tubule as tightly as possible, I made the width of the tubule 1 cm, while the diameter of the bone was 0.5 cm.

Trim edges:
Once you're done, trim the edges to get rid of any loose threads and even out any errors in the shape.

Step 8. Pattern of facing and edging fabric

At this stage, you will need to choose exactly how you want to edge the edges of your product. I preferred my corset to have smooth, neat edges, but if you prefer an angular or zigzag edge, that's fine too. If you want smooth edges, you can do a basic seam the same as in step 6 anyway.

If you will be edging the edges of the corset with edging fabric, then move on to the next step.

If you want to use only lacing, then simply do this instead of steps 10 and 12, and also skip step 13.

Cutting the edging fabric:

For the top edging, place a piece of lining fabric on the cutting table, the width of the fabric should be greater than the entire size of the corset.

Place the corset on this fabric as evenly as possible. Trim the fabric along the top edge of the corset. Remove the corset and make a strip that is about 4cm wide down from the cutting line.

For the bottom piping, do the same, making sure the bottom of the corset lies as flat as possible before cutting the fabric.

Step 9. Making the straps

If you want your corset to have straps, then at this stage, I will tell you how to attach them.

For my straps, I cut two strips of fabric, 4 cm wide, so that the straps themselves are a little wider than 0.5 cm. To do this, you need to fold the fabric so that the edges are folded inward and touch each other in the middle of the strip.

Then fold the resulting halves, thereby hiding the edges, and stitch the straps on both sides.

Step 10: Top Finish

Pin your straps and sew a finishing border on top of the front side of the corset.

Fold the hem over the wrong side of the corset and iron the resulting edge.

Determine the width of the border so that the strap remains inside at least 1 cm (otherwise it will quickly come off) and trim off the excess fabric.

Step 11. Insert the seeds

Insert the bones into each of the tubules. Each tubule will have 4 layers of fabric (front, back, plus seam allowances). I usually insert the boning in the middle, between two layers of outer fabric and two layers of lining fabric. However, if you are using a very strong lining fabric and a delicate outer fabric, then you can sandwich the boning between the two layers of lining fabric. Decide for yourself.

Step 12. Bottom edging

Attach the edging to the underside of the corset, repeating the procedure from step 10.

Make sure that the bones are moved as far away from the border as possible so as not to accidentally break the needles.

Step 13: Sew on the edging

Place the piping on the inside of the corset.

Step 14. Insert lacing loops

Time for iron loops! Mark the places for the loops at a distance of approximately 2 cm from each other.

Cut or punch holes.

Insert the tabs into the holes, making sure they are secure.

Roll up the fabric and use a hammer to pinch the loops.

Step 15: Finishing Touches

All that's left to do is attach the straps to the back of the corset. Attach them and secure with pins. Align them to your shoulder and cut off the excess.

As an extra final step, you can add a little modesty to your look by covering the bare skin of your back under the corset laces with a shelf of fabric. I skipped this step this time.

Step 16. DONE!

And voila! All is ready.

Drawing lesson

• Start making a corset by drawing 3 lines - chest, waist and hips. Remember, between the first and second stripes you need to maintain the distance of the sidewall.
• Let's name the parts of the template as follows: first central, second central; first side and second side.

• Making your own corset pattern will help you create a personalized piece based on your shape. So, line up the first piece of the pattern according to it. Waist dart solution in in this case- 1 cm.
• Let's move on to the second part. Raise the center of the chest by 1 cm and move it to the right by 0.7 cm. Draw a vertical strip through the resulting point, reducing the volume under the chest.
• To the line of the second relief, we shift the tuck solution along the waist of the main drawing by 2 cm.
• When you line up the front section of the corset on the first side part, you will notice that the parts overlap each other.
• Extend the front part by 1 cm at the side near the armhole and also at the bottom. Draw a cutting line.
• Now let's take the back. It should be narrowed by 1.5 cm at the side armhole, and then added 1 cm at the very bottom.
• Trace the resulting parts and cut them out. The finished corset pattern should look like this.