History of the development of national footwear of the Indians. Men's moccasins - what they go with, how to choose the right one

Moccasins, top-siders, loafers... many men do not fully understand the difference between all these types of shoes. Stylish summer shoes came into use not so long ago, but the history of these shoes dates back to the times of the North American Indians, long before the beginning of our era.

Today we will look at the history of moccasins and find out why some moccasins are made without soles, while others are made specifically for drivers. What is the difference between moccasins and top-siders (yacht shoes) or loafers? In addition, we will give some tips on what to wear with moccasins and whether they are worn with socks?

What are Moccasins?

Moccasins have a long history, but first, let's clarify what the term actually means. Encyclopedia Britannica describes moccasins as “flat shoes made of soft leather, the sole of which may be flexible, hard or soft; In moccasins, the soft sole runs in a seamless piece from the heel to the toes, where it is joined at the outer seam to the U-shaped part lying on top of the foot. The upper part of moccasins is often decorated with embroidery, beads or other ornaments.” Another authoritative publication, Wikipedia, defines moccasins as traditional shoes of North American Indians, which are made only from rawhide, sewn with awls, needles and sinew threads.

Modern moccasins are made from different materials:

• textile,
• suede leather,
• Genuine Leather,
• leatherette.

There are moccasins for men, women, and unisex. In addition, moccasins are divided into types:

• casual moccasins,
• moccasins for the office,
• sports moccasins,
• evening or business moccasins.

The sole of moccasins is made of rubber, rubber or leather. Note that some people claim that a genuine moccasin does not have a separate sole. Indeed, the moccasins of many Indian tribes did not use soles because the soft leather was ideal for woodland and hunting. Tribes who lived in the mountains often attached a separate bison skin sole, thus making the moccasins suitable for their environment.

Soft leather shoes with heels or suede loafers are often advertised as moccasins, but this is technically incorrect. They are a "moccasin style" with a U-shaped leather upper.

History of moccasins

Moccasins are considered the traditional footwear of North America. Although one can argue that moxas were invented by the Indians. Some historians believe that moccasins came to the present-day United States approximately 30,000 years ago across the Bering Sea from Asia. Subsequently, the style was adapted by Indian tribes and due to the different climates and different habitats in North America. Appeared different kinds moccasin, each suited to a specific climate and tribal habitat.

Etymologically, the word moccasin or "mohkisson" comes from the Algonquin language Powhatan and means shoe. In fact, most of the native Indian tribes of North America had their own similar words to refer to shoes, but since the Algonquins were the first people encountered by Europeans around 1615 in North America, the term was brought to England, where it was established.

Apart from North America, shoes similar to moccasins were found as recently as 2008 in a cave in Armenia. Moccasins are approximately 5,500 years old.

Moccasins made approximately 700-900 BC have been found in the marshes of Ireland. A characteristic feature of the find was that they were made using the sewing method without excess leather and a separate sewn heel part to protect the leg.

Original moccasin style

Although there are different styles of moccasins that developed due to different Native American environments and climates, they can be broadly divided into two types: hard-soled moccasins and soft-soled moccasins.

Typically associated with the western plains and deserts of North America. The hard sole was often made from tough buffalo hide and was designed to protect the wearer's feet from the thorny cactus and prairie grass common to the area. In addition, they protected against sharp stones. Hard-soled moccasins were usually made from two or more pieces of hide. Usually moccasins were sewn with a raised toe, so as not to touch the seam on sharp stones and not to damage the leg through the resulting hole.

Typically associated with the Eastern Woodlands of North America, where the terrain is mostly wooded with leaves and pine needles covering the ground so the feet do not require the protection of hard soles. Soft-soled moxas were often made from only one piece of leather. The sole was folded around the foot and fastened around the instep; some were secured with a seam along one side rather than in the center. However, the most basic style is a simple center seam. The two pieces form a U-shaped piece that serves as the front piece. Some had an additional part that served as a cuff.

These two main types of moccasins gave rise to a huge variety of moccasin styles among different Indian tribes. In fact, these styles were so distinctive that it was possible to identify a tribe by their moccasins. Experts went further, identifying different tribes based on moccasin tracks.

Leather moccasins

Moccasins with a hard sole were made from soft, untanned, Brown deer, buffalo or bison leather. You can also find moccasins made from suede or moose leather. They were assembled inside out and thus the seam was hidden. Animal tendon was used for stitching. The knot was made on the outside to provide comfort. Overcasting and running stitches were commonly used. The structure of the moccasins was rather mediocre, however, each tribe had distinctive methods of decoration. Beading, embroidery and dyeing were used to decorate the moccasins. Women of certain tribes often extended moccasins higher, giving fashion to the appearance of a new type of footwear - boots.

Moccasins were designed for both comfort and practical use. Moccasins allowed the wearer to "feel" the ground as he walked, while keeping his feet protected. In addition, moccasins did not make noise when walking, which was necessary when hunting animals or birds.

Since moccasins were designed for specific environments and terrain, it was not surprising that they quickly became the footwear of choice for Europeans. Among European settlers, they were favored by hunters and traders who traveled long distances on foot.

Moccasins remained popular among European settlers because of their practicality. But as the country became more industrialized at the turn of the 20th century, moccasins slowly began to lose their popularity. By the time of World War II, they could only be found in resorts and souvenir shops. After the end of World War II, a new generation decided to follow the path of natural beauty and renew the popularity of moccasins. By this time, advances in the industrial sector made it possible to create moccasins in a variety of leather types and colors, thereby adding style to the models. Very soon their popularity was restored, which is evidenced by the fact that in 1946 the Minnetonka Moccasins company was founded.

Today, most moccasins have a double sole for increased strength and durability. Moccasins for drivers with rubber sole or rubber inserts; began to sew top-siders with thick non-slip soles, began to make loafers from hard leather with a hard sole for the business dress code.

The original moccasins are rarely worn outside because the pavement and concrete are too hard for them. Some people use moxas as indoor shoes.

What is the difference between moccasins and loafers and top-siders? Modern moccasins are shoes made of leather with a thin sole without a heel, decorated with fringe, a tassel or a bridge in the form of a bridle. A characteristic feature is the presence of an external seam that holds the last and the upper part of the moccasin together. Sometimes there is decorative lacing.

Loafers, unlike moccasins, have a rigid sole and heel. Most often, loafers are made from tougher leather than moccasins. This is the most formal shoe among the three types of shoes.

Top siders also differ from moccasins in that they have thicker, stiffer soles. Feature top-siders - white corrugated soles that do not slip on the deck of a yacht or ship. In addition, top-side shoes have lacing, which fulfills its intended purpose - securing the shoes on the foot. In the case of moccasins, lacing is a decorative element.

Today, the most popular style of moccasins is for driving. Technically, this is not a real moccasin, but rather a new type created by the owner of the Italian company Tod’s, Diego Della Valle. His father owned a shoe company that created exclusive brand shoes for Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus. At the age of 16, he came across an interesting pair of moccasins that were made in Portugal. Although they were poorly made, he thought they were an interesting design and brought them home. Today they are the core of the Tod’s brand.

Tod's driving moccasins have rubber studded soles. They are usually used as everyday summer shoes, in which you can drive a car or just walk. Unfortunately, these shoes wear out quickly and cannot be repaired. Most people give them up once the spikes wear out. Sometimes, the shoemaker will be able to glue or sew on a new, more durable sole, however, this will affect the character of the shoe.

Finding moccasins can be a problem. The problem is that there is too much choice among thousands of brands represented in all price categories.

What to wear with moccasins

Due to the fact that moccasins differ from each other in model, quality of leather, color and various decorative elements, some may be appropriate with, others exclusively with.

Moccasins in classic business colors (black, brown, dark blue, burgundy, burgundy, amber, emerald) with a minimum of decorative elements are suitable for a business dress code, where a classic suit is appropriate. Moccasins with tassels are also suitable, as this decorative element is borrowed from loafers - the most formal type of shoe from the summer "casual three-piece".

However, don't wear moccasins to important business meetings; instead, wear loafers.

Sports moccasins, which are sometimes difficult to distinguish from light leather sneakers, are appropriate to wear with breeches, shorts, and jeans. Sports moccasins are comfortable to carry out long walks, but it’s better not to run. As you remember, lacing is decorative and you can simply lose your shoe while jogging.

Custom moccasins made of suede, velor, corduroy or simply bright colors(red moccasins also include here) look good in smart-casual and casual styles. I think bright moccasins are a great reason to diversify your everyday wear. Wear regular chinos, a T-shirt with an interesting pattern, a blazer, or unusual, bright loafers. In my opinion, if not in the summer to conduct such experiments with style, then when?!

Going off topic, are moccasins suitable for spring, fall or winter? The answer is simple - no. Although there are moccasins with fur, I can hardly imagine a person wearing a coat, tied with a scarf and moccasins. You don’t wear boots in the summer, I hope? So don’t wear moxas in winter... well, unless you got into a car in a warm parking lot and drove to shopping mall or a club, then you can ;)

Are moccasins worn with socks?

Very popular question. Usually moccasins are worn without socks, but this is not a panacea. Recently, people have come up with the idea of ​​wearing very short socks that do not peek out from under their shoes. You can also wear colored socks to match your chosen style.

Personally, in the city, it’s more convenient for me to wear moccasins with socks, because after 2-3 hours of walking, my feet get sweaty and you can get a couple of blisters. On the beach it is more convenient to wear moccasins without socks, since walks can be alternated with gatherings in a cafe and your feet will not have time to sweat. Plus, without socks, your feet will feel fresher from the gentle breeze.

It is important to note that we are only talking about moccasins from genuine leather. Only in moccasins made of genuine leather can you hope that your feet will be naturally ventilate.

Best Moccasin Brands

Today, the production of moccasins is centralized in three places: USA, Europe, Australia. Over the past 100 years, both famous brands and small-town factories that are engaged in mono-production (i.e., producing only moccasins and nothing more) have entered the moccasin production race. So, let's start looking at each continent separately.

American moccasins

A distinctive feature of moccasins from the USA is practicality and comfort. The most famous manufacturers of American moccasins:

• Allen Edmonds is one of the few companies that has surpassed 100 years of existence and still makes quality shoes.
• Bass – good range and relatively low prices for quality shoes.
• Sebago – you need shoes made of bison leather, this is for them.
• Timberland – they don’t seem to sell moccasins, but they do sell top-siders.
• Florsheim is an old company where you can buy loafers and boat shoes.
• Minnetonka Moccasin is the first brand in the United States to officially begin producing moccasins.
• Hush Puppies – produce good casual shoes, including moccasins.

European moccasins

Moccasins from Europe are characterized by their style and model diversity. Writing down the advantages and disadvantages of each brand is a utopian task, so we’ll just list them.

• There are a lot of brands from Italy: Tods, Gucci, Zegna, Fratelli Rosetti, Moreschi, Dolce&Gabbana, Prada, Giorgio Armani, Dsquared², A.Testoni, Alberto Guardiani, Costume National, Trussardi.
• French moccasin brands: Hermes, J.B. Weston, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Yves Saint Laurent, Dior, Lacoste.
• English moccasins: Wirdsmith, Richmond.
• German moccasins: Harai, Adidas, Hugo Boss.
• Moccasins from Spain: Zara, Balenciaga.

Australian moccasins

On the most remote continent, there is only one manufacturer of moccasins - Ugg Australia. Yes, yes, they make UGG boots. By the way, moccasins with fur are produced by Ugg Australia.

Finally

Moccasins are one of the oldest types of footwear, along with sandals or wicker shoes. While Archimedes made discoveries in physics, mathematics, and laid the foundations in mechanics and hydrostatics, Indians from North America had been wearing moxas for thousands of years. The conclusion is simple: moccasins are shoes for all times, which will not be easy to give up once you wear them.

(American Indian Art Magazine, Summer, 1977)

The study of moccasins presents a challenge to both collectors and students of American Indian art. Apparently the myriad styles of moccasins are the reason for the confusion when trying to determine tribal affiliation. However, by paying attention to tailoring (cut), materials and ornament, you can figure this out. Time and effort will not leave you without reward.

Plains Indian moccasins with decorated soles have been of interest to collectors for many years. As a rule, the soles were embroidered with beads, but sometimes porcupine quills were used for this. A sufficient number of moccasins of this type have survived to this day; they can be seen in many museums and many private collections. Samples are presented in modern exhibitions organized by museums and in exhibition catalogues. They are also listed in many auction catalogs and hold a fairly high price at the time of sale. Interest in these moccasins has given rise to some misunderstandings, which causes concern among people who seriously study Indian art.
In an attempt to provide a simple explanation for this type of moccasin decoration, dealers, writers and collectors have coined incorrect terms, which we see also used by many museums who are confident in the reliability of these misleading terms. Some of them define moccasins with decorated soles as “ceremonial”, “wedding” and “funeral”. The use of these terms gives the impression that such moccasins were made specifically for these purposes. This is wrong. I am not saying that they were never worn during religious events or during a Christian marriage ceremony, or placed on the feet of the deceased before burial. However, these moccasins were not made for these specific purposes and cannot be called as such.
The most exaggerated name is “ceremonial”. It is used as a convenient interpretation for all kinds of Indian objects (things) that seem unusual. It's time we use this word more carefully. The name “wedding moccasins” should be immediately removed as a misnomer. It is enough to see children's moccasins in the center of PHOTO No. 2.
The term "funeral moccasins" has a dramatic effect, conjuring up images of a "chieftain" decked out in finery for a journey into the Land of the Happy Hunt. The culprit is Hollywood, although it dates back to an earlier time. The term may have come from an overzealous merchant explaining to his customers that it was impossible to wear moccasins with beaded or needle-decorated soles. Some studies give reason to refute the idea that such moccasins were intended for the dead. In remote groups (communities) in geographically scattered settlements, it was the responsibility of family and friends to prepare the body of the deceased person for burial. And this had to be done immediately. There is simply no time for making and decorating such shoes. Making moccasins while waiting for a person to die is not typical of the Indians and is implausible. Often there are dolls on which moccasins are completely embroidered with beads. That the Indians could decorate their children's toys in a manner associated with death seems unlikely. Signs of wear are visible on many moccasins of this type. The inside of moccasins often shows stains from dampness or sweaty feet. The abrasions on the outer sides of the soles are more than obvious. And it is quite common to see worn-out beads due to wearing moccasins on uneven surfaces. Two pairs of moccasins shown in PHOTO No. 3 and No. 4 show severe damage; in large areas the beads are completely worn out. The article is accompanied by several photographs that clearly show living Indians wearing moccasins with decorated soles.
One can only guess when the idea of ​​decorating the soles of moccasins came to fruition. I have researched moccasins with decorated soles in many museums and private collections and found that the vast majority of them were made by Western or Teton Sioux. I believe the idea was born out of the early reservation period, a time of great change and stress for the Sioux. The destruction of the old social system led to new realities of life. The popularity of Grass Dance spread, Pow Wow became more socially significant. This was important for the individual’s self-esteem and collective reputation, so that the people believed in their future.
The restrictions of reservation life provided Sioux women with ample time to make intricate beaded and needlework objects. It was a time of experimentation and innovation in their crafts and art. The widespread acceptance of factory-made fabrics, obtained from the government, from traders or from ordinary reserve shops, introduced new patterns and methods of sewing. There is an extensive range of objects made by sioux that are not found in collections of items made before 1880, but are visible in photographs taken before that time. These are trousers, vests, jackets (coats), gloves, hoods for women and short pants for boys.
A distinctive feature of the sioux art of that time was the items completely embroidered with beads. Traditional items such as women's dresses, baby cradles, pipe bags and moccasins were decorated in this way. The idea of ​​completely covering objects with beads extended to commercial items such as small suitcases, pewter cups, and even glass bottles. The full decoration of the moccasins, including the soles, is simply another example of the style of beadwork popular among the Sioux at the time.
The few examples I have seen of similar items from other tribes all come from the Fort Belknap, Montana Reservation. They were made by gross ventre or assiniboin women. Fort Belknap was originally a gross ventre reservation. Later, part of the assiniboin was also registered here. The close connection of these two tribes led to the development of a style of reservation art that became fully established around 1890. In the extensive collection of photographs taken at Fort Belknap Sumner by W. Matteson in 1905(06?), I could not find any differences in their art. I prefer to identify the examples presented here as Fort Belknap style unless there is information indicating tribal origin. The development of the reservation style occurs on several reservations inhabited by more than one tribal group. Limited knowledge and confusion regarding the arts and crafts represented at Fort Belknap have resulted in many specimens being misidentified as blackfeet. While sioux moccasins with decorated soles are common, similar examples from Fort Belknap are not often found. One pair of moccasins, attributed to the Assiniboin, is on display at the North Dakota Historical Museum in Bismark. Another pair can be seen at the Indian & Fur Trade Museum in Medora, North Dakota. Another pair is presented here (see PHOTO No. 4).

There are several publications illustrated with fully embroidered moccasins, which are attributed to other tribes, which do not coincide with earlier references. After carefully examining these photographs, I am confident that the identification is incorrect and that these are Sioux moccasins. These inaccuracies probably follow from the collection history: specimens were often misidentified by the place of their acquisition (on the reservation) ...
Moccasins with decorated soles were made for a short period of time, from the early 1880s until about 1910, when they went out of fashion. This is precisely the period when Sioux artists and craftsmen were so productive. This style of moccasin decoration undoubtedly developed among the Western Sioux, with much of the work done on the Pine Ridge and Rosebud Reservations. For some inexplicable reason, this style spread from the sioux to Fort Belknap, where it was popular for a short time and then fell out of fashion, like the sioux. It is interesting that two photographs of men wearing moccasins with beaded soles (PHOTO No. 5 and 6) were taken on the same day, July 4, 1905. One pair was taken at the Fort Belknap agency and the other at Kyle, Pine Ridge Reservation.
Of the nine pairs of moccasins presented in this article, seven are Western, or teton sioux. One pair belongs to the Orientals, or santee sioux. And another one from the Fort Belknap, Montana reservation. There are no collectible histories for all of these moccasins, except for the pair in PHOTO #2, far right, which were acquired by artist Joseph Scheurele at the Pine Ridge Reservation around 1905.
The five pairs of Western Sioux moccasins are very typical of them. All are made from cowhides (livestock) and cut in the standard plains two-piece pattern common to hard-soled moccasins. The tongues are sewn on in all cases. Every pair of moccasins I have examined with beaded or needle-stitched soles has soft, tanned leather soles. However, due to earlier inaccurate descriptions of this type of moccasin, the reader may be misled into thinking that the soles were made of rawhide. The four pairs of moccasins have the decorated tongues that are standard on moccasins of this type. Embroidered with lazy stitch, sinew. Most rows (strips) of beads are of normal width, but in some places there are rows (strips) of beads that are wider, used to fill the free space. The moccasins in PHOTO No. 3 are somewhat unusual, with short fringe laced to the front. This pair of moccasins has an unusually wide row of green beads surrounding the moccasin, which is stitched down the middle with what is known as a crow stitch. One pair of moccasins uses faceted brass beads (PHOTO No. 2, right). Faceted metal beads, brass and iron (?), came into use around 1890 and were popular among the Sioux. It is found on a variety of objects and can help determine their age. It is interesting to note the tendency of the sioux during this period to increase the number of horizontal rows (stripes) of beads around the perimeter of the moccasins. This reduces the space for embroidery on the front of the moccasin and increases the height of the border. When a triangular design is used on the border of moccasins, it often gives them a distinctly Cheyenne appearance (PHOTO #7). If the identification is based only on this feature, then it may be erroneous.
Two examples of needlepoint moccasins with decorated soles are presented in this article. Both pairs are Western Sioux and cut using the standard plains two-piece leather pattern. They are made of cowhide, sinew is used. On one pair (PHOTO No. 9), the top of the moccasins is decorated with beads and needles, and the soles are decorated with beads. Decorated deerskin tongues. An interesting variation of the US flag on the front in yellow and blue (light blue) colors (PHOTO No. 10). The flag poles extend from the horns of the ornament depicting a horned headdress. On the top of the moccasins there is a “fringe” wrapped with needles. The use of patriotic symbols in bead and needlepoint embroidery was popular among the Sioux at the time and appears on a large number of items they produced. (“The American Indian and the American Flag” Flint, Michigan, 1975) The soles of one pair of moccasins are decorated with porcupine quills, and this is unusual (PHOTO No. 8). Stripes embroidered with yellow, red and purple (violet) needles are found on both the front and soles. Along the perimeter of the soles there is a border of turquoise-blue beads. A short extension is added to the tops of the moccasins, with a narrow band of black fabric sewn into the seam.
A pair of moccasins identified as oriental sioux is the most unusual (PHOTO No. 1). They were made around 1890 from deerskin. Cut from two pieces. In this pattern, the tongue is part of the upper and a third piece of leather is added (sewn) to the top of the moccasin. The main beading technique on the top of the moccasins is applique, using both sinew and thread (cotton). The ornament is stylized floral. The soles have geometric patterns and lazy sinew stitch embroidery. The tribal affiliation of these moccasins is questionable. It is believed that they were made by a Santee fugitive who settled on one of the Sioux reservations in South Dakota. These moccasins are cut and decorated in a style that shows mixed influences.
Many santee were displaced in the Minnesota Rebellion of 1862. Some fled to Canada, others west to the Dakotas and Montana. The impressions from their wanderings were reflected in the development of a later interesting and distinctive decorative style. The designs were usually stylized or abstract floral, both in beads and needles. Glass fine-cut beads were often used.
This article features more than just sioux moccasins. In PHOTO No. 4, gross ventre or assiniboin moccasins from the Fort Belknap reservation. Made around 1890 from deerskin, the pattern is two-piece with sewn tabs. The embroidery technique is mainly applique, the border is embroidered with a lazy stitch. Geometric ornament. Both tendons and threads (cotton) were used.

Photos of the moccasins that illustrate this article are courtesy of Joan Heim, with the exception of PHOTO #4.

(Translation by Filin, 2010)

1) Moccasins. Eastern Sioux(?). Circa 1890. Chandler-Pohrt Collection. Glass fine-cut beads and metal beads (brass and iron) are used in a stylized floral pattern on the top of the moccasins and geometric patterns on the soles. (See also cover).

2) Three pairs of moccasins: adults’ moccasins on the left and right, children’s in the center. Western sioux, circa 1890. Chandler-Pohrt Collection. Purchased by artist Joseph Scheuerle from the Pine Ridge Reservation, South Dakota, circa 1905.

3) Moccasins, western sioux, circa 1890. Chandler-Pohrt collection. Fringe is added to the front of the moccasin, which is unusual.

4) Gross ventre - assiniboin, Fort Belknap Reservation, Montana, circa 1890. Chandler-Pohrt Institute, Lessard Collection, Mission, South Dakota. There is noticeable damage to the beaded embroidery on the sole.

5) Celebration of the 4th of July, 1905(06?) year. Fort Belknap Reservation, Montana. Gross ventre and assiniboin. The man in the center is wearing moccasins with decorated soles. Photograph by Sumner(a) W. Matteson, negative of this photograph is the property of the Milwaukee Public Museum.

6) Celebration of the 4th of July 1905(06?) in Kyle, Pine Ridge Reservation, South Dakota. Western Sioux. Moccasins with decorated soles are visible in the lower left corner of the photo. Photograph by Fannie Hoyt, Chandler-Pohrt Collection.

7) Moccasins. Western sioux, circa 1890. Chandler-Pohrt Collection. Four rows (stripes) of beads on the moccasin border.

8) Moccasins. Western sioux, circa 1890. Chandler-Pohrt Collection. Both the soles and the top of the moccasins are decorated with stripes embroidered with porcupine quills.

9) Moccasins. Western sioux, circa 1890. Chandler-Pohrt Collection. The fronts of these moccasins are decorated with needles, and the soles with beads. Enlarged image of needle embroidery in PHOTO No. 10, and bead embroidery in PHOTO No. 11.

Unlike moccasins, they have a welt and a hard sole with a low, wide heel. They have a thick sole, and the lace runs not only along the perimeter of the heel, but also in the front through 4 armholes.

Types of moccasins

“Light, thin, soft Indian moccasins - best shoes in the world - incomparably better than the clumsy, hard European boots that the Indians cannot wear.”
J.G.Kol

According to their intended purpose, they are distinguished women's, men's and children's moccasins, as well as models. There are casual, office, evening and sports types of moccasins.

According to the material, moccasins can be textile, leather, suede and made of leatherette. The sole is usually made of rubber, rubber or leather.

By country of origin The following types of moccasins can be distinguished:

• American, which are primarily valued for practicality and wearing comfort (Allen Edmonds, Bass, Sebago, Timberland, Florsheim, Hush Puppies);
• European, characterized by attractive appearance- Italian (Tods, Zegna, Fratelli Rosetti, Moreschi, A. Testoni, Alberto Guardiani,), French (, J. B. Weston,), English (Wirdsmith, Richmond), German (Harai,), Spanish (, );

• Australian ones, the most famous of which are produced by the manufacturer,.

Story

“Don’t judge another until you’ve walked two miles in his moccasins.”
Indian proverb

The oldest moccasins (pre-colonial period)

Moccasins were the traditional footwear of the North American Indians. The name of the shoes itself comes from the word “mohkisson” from the Algonquin Indian language. Moccasins were discovered in a cave in Armenia in 2008 and are approximately 5,500 years old. The world's oldest shoe is 24.5 cm long (size 37) and made from a single piece of cow leather. Before this discovery, the oldest specimen was considered to be the shoes of Otzi, an ancient man who lived about 5,000 years ago and was found in 1991 in the Tyrolean Alps. Otzi is wearing something between sandals and moccasins. His shoes are made of woven leather straps and various grasses, and the sole is made of bear skin.

At Fort Rock Cave, Oregon, and Arnold Cave, Missouri, leather moccasins worn by North American Indians dating back to approximately 3575 B.C. have been discovered. e. to 970 AD Moccasins replaced wicker shoes that existed 8,000-10,000 years ago.

Moccasin dating back to 700-900 AD. was found in the marshes of Ireland. By this time, this type of footwear had undergone significant changes: moccasins were now made using the sewing method, which made it possible to get rid of excess leather and add a heel to the shoes.


Colonial period (1607-1775)

During the colonial period, there were two types of moccasins: rawhide and one-piece. The latter were cut out in a single piece and stitched in the center - from the toe to the middle of the instep, or on the side from the outside from the toe to the heel. Moccasins with a center seam were found among southeastern and northeastern tribes. To prevent the seam from being noticeable, it was masked with embroidery halfway through the rise. Side-sewn moccasins were often complemented by an elongated tongue. The Indians of the Pacific coast considered these shoes to be “true moccasins.”

The Indians' shoes were durable, comfortable and silent, which was of great importance when hunting. Moccasins were usually made from deer, bison or elk leather. The Indians rarely left the natural pale color of their shoes: the shade depended on the time, the method of smoking and the type of wood burned. Each tribe had its own methods of making moccasins: in Athabaskan clothing, shoes and trousers were one whole, the Iroquois winter shoes they used the skin of the hind leg of an elk, which had a shape similar to the human foot, and also wore wicker moccasins made from corn leaves and wood fibers. Southern Plains men wore moccasins with fringes that were attached to the heel seam. It was believed that fringe covers not only physical, but also spiritual traces of its wearer.

XIX - early XX centuries

In the 1830s and 1840s, the Indians made mainly rawhide moccasins. Rough and thick rawhide was used for the sole, and suede for the upper. This variant originated in the American southwest. For a long time, shoes were sewn from the tendons of killed animals, but in the 19th century, the Indians began to use durable nylon threads. Since 80 That century, many tribes stopped using thick rawhide leather for soles and began to purchase factory-made calf leather. White skin was left in its natural color, and natural or artificial pigments were used to obtain other colors. By the end of the 19th century, the tongue of moccasins began to be cut out separately - in trapezoidal and rectangular shapes. Occasionally, men's moccasins were sewn with a forked tongue, reminiscent of buffalo hoof marks, which symbolized strength and power.

Women's moccasins now had a length to the knees or slightly higher and consisted of, in fact, shoes and leggings. Among the Indians from the northern and central plains, these parts were not sewn together, but among the southern tribes, moccasins and gaiters were one, connected with ropes or buttons. The insulation in the cold was buffalo fur, from which the inside of the shoes was sewn. Men's loafers They had a shorter length, but like women’s, they could be embroidered with beads, fringe, porcupine quills, and appliqués. The decorated shoes were exclusively festive. In the 30s Comanche tribes began to use white fringe made of silk thread as decoration.

The Indians of the southwest wore moccasins with rigid, turned-up soles. Both men's and women's shoes of these tribes were knee-high, which provided protection from sharp plant thorns and the bites of poisonous snakes. Men fastened their shoes on the side with buttons made of silver or cupronickel, and occasionally some decorative elements were used. Women of the Apache tribes decorated moccasins with beads and natural Hopi and Navajo pigments. An important feature women's shoes This region had long white strips of deerskin that were wrapped around the legs from the moccasin to the middle of the knee.

At the beginning of the 20th century, interest in the image of the “Indian princess” arose in the West. At that time, women from North American Indian tribes wore beaded crowns, dresses and white leather moccasins to powwow dance events.

Moccasins are first found in literature on the pages of the novels of James Fenimore Cooper (Pioneers, 1823; The Last of the Mohicans, 1826; The Prairie, 1827; The Pathfinder, 1840; St. John's Wort, or the First Warpath, 1841).

XX century America

By the end of the first half of the 20th century, American moccasins began to new story. In 1946, Philip Miller decided to fully reflect the centuries-old culture and traditions of the indigenous people of America in the Minnetonka Moccasin project: his company began to hand-sew traditional Indian moccasins. Cow, elk and deer leather for production were purchased from the leaders of Indian tribes. A distinctive feature of Minnetonka Moccasin shoes was the fringe that adorned most models. Since 1960, moccasins began to be decorated with the image of “Thunderbird” - a thunderbird that served as a talisman for the Indians.

In 1980, the film “Urban Cowboy” with John Travolta was released, where the hero of the film wore Minnetonka shoes. After the release of the film, moccasins began to be worn as simple people, and celebrities. Currently, Minnetonka shoes are worn by Vanessa Paradis, Nicole Ricci, Jennifer Aniston, etc. During its existence, the brand has gained popularity in more than 50 countries.

In 1958, the Hush Puppies brand was created in the USA. The moccasin style provided men, women and children with ease and comfort when walking. Most models had latex insoles and pads with soft filling in the heel area. In the 90s the company produced a series of colored moccasins, which made the brand truly popular. Today, Hush Puppies are sold in more than 130 countries. Fans of the brand include Eddie Murphy, Sharon Stone, Bruce Willis and others.

XX century Europe

Native American moccasins were very popular in their homeland. Many travelers bought these shoes for themselves as a souvenir. Thus, Indian shoes became widespread in Europe. Then manufacturers decided to produce their own moccasins, adding luxury and grace to traditional shoes. Since 1902, for 60 years, the Arfango brand has created loafers and moccasins that were very popular among the Italian elite. In 2006, Alberto Moretti relaunched the handmade production of Arfango shoes.

In 1959, the Fashion House released a trial batch of women's moccasins “Barrette” in Paris, and in 1962 the “Inka” model, decorated with braided braids, was released.

Luxury moccasins for men began to be produced in 1965 by the Italian Vittorio Spernanzoni. The shoes were made entirely by hand from lamb skins. Currently the most famous fashion houses trust Vittorio Spernanzoni to work on their lines.

Moccasins became widespread in Europe thanks to Gianni Mostila. In 1963, the Italian government granted him a patent to produce shoes for car enthusiasts. These were men's moccasins with rubberized soles with protruding bumps. This version of the sole ensured perfect adhesion of the shoes to the pedals of the car. Moccasins acquired the name "Car Shoes". Later, the Italian brand “Car Shoe” was founded. Initially, this shoe model was used only for driving a car. The first to appear outside the car in moccasins was US President John Kennedy. Later, the Car Shoe was worn by the owner of the Fiat concern Gianni Agnelli, director Robert Rossellini and other celebrities. In 2001, the brand was acquired by the Prada fashion house.

Moccasins

One-piece moccasins with porcupine quill embroidery. East Woodland. XVIII or early XIX century

In winter they could wear moccasins made of skin with wool - with fur inside. For warmth, moccasins are stuffed with wool, dry grass, or several thin felt inserts are used. Sometimes they have wide lapels, which in cold weather can lift and bandage long laces. Sometimes these lapels are made solid and give the moccasins the appearance of short boots. Among the tribes of the southern Great Plains, women's moccasins may be sewn with leggings or leggings in the form of knee-length or higher boots, which are often laced or fastened at the side. In the South-West to women's moccasins leggings are attached in the form of windings made of thick white leather. In the ancient clothing of the Athapaskans of Canada, shoes are generally integral with the pants. The Iroquois, in addition to ordinary moccasins, also had a peculiar antique look. For it, they used the whole skin of the hind leg of an elk, which has a suitable shape for this. The Iroquois also have woven moccasins made from corn leaves and wood fibers.

A distinctive feature of moccasins is that they are not laced through rows of holes. Their laces serve as tightening windings or simply ties. Moccasins are often embroidered with beads, porcupine quills, and other materials. Lapels are sometimes made of fabric or decorated with fabric appliqué. The design carries a certain symbolic meaning. In the South-West, they usually do without jewelry or limit themselves to round plaques made of silver or cupronickel.

They were also used by European settlers, especially hunters, etc.

Modern moccasin shoes are lightweight unisex style shoes, their cut reminiscent of some types of traditional moccasins.

see also

Literature

• Koch Ronald P. Moccasins of the Plains Indians // First Americans. American Indians: past and present / Transl. from English - 2000. - No. 6. - P. 76, 78-81.
• Lobin R., Lobin G. Sioux moccasins // First Americans. American Indians: past and present / Transl. from English - 2000. - No. 6. - P. 82-86.
• Moccasins // First Americans. American Indians: past and present. - 2000. - No. 6. - P. 77.
• Morgan L.G. League of Hodenosaunee, or Iroquois / Trans. from English - M.: Head. ed. Eastern literature publishing house "Science", 1983. - P. 188, 189.
• Stuart Tyrone. Cheyenne moccasins // First Americans. American Indians: past and present / Transl. from English - 2000. - No. 6. - P. 87-103.
• Sager Dave. Blackfoot hard-soled moccasins // First Americans. American Indians: past and present / Transl. from English - 2000. - No. 7. - P. 95-102.
• Hayes Joe S., Ramsey Tim. Dusters - men's moccasins of the Indians of the southern plains // First Americans. American Indians: past and present / Transl. from English - 2000. - 2000. - No. 7. - P. 74-85.
• Yasenenko O. N. Blackfoot Moccasins // First Americans. American Indians: past and present. - 2000. - No. 7. - P. 91-94.
• Yasenenko O. N., Ulanov T. A., Gorshkova O. A. Features of the moccasins of the Comanches, Kiowas and Cheyennes // First Americans. American Indians: past and present. - 2000. - No. 7. - P. 86-90.
• Hungry Wolf Adolf. Traditional dress: knowledge and methods of Old-Time clothing. - Summertown, TN USA: Book Publishing Company; Skookumchuck, BC Canada: Good Medicine Books, 1990. - (A Good Medicine book, no. 3). - P. 12-19. - ISBN 0 913990 72 8
• Laubin R., Laubin G. The Indian Tipi: Its History, Construction, and Use. - Second Edition. - Norman, London: University of Oklahoma Press, 1989. - P. 91-103. - ISBN 0 8061 2236 6
• Wissler Clark. North American Indians of the Plains. - N.Y., 1927. - P. 44, 45.

Links

• Moccasins (how to make and decorate Prairie Indian moccasins)
• Moccasins on a site dedicated to Indian crafts (English)
• Creek/Seminole moccasins
• Canadian Museum of Civilization - moccasins

Wikimedia Foundation. 2010.

Since time immemorial, people have cared about what to put on their feet. Hard grass, a scattering of stones, just hard ground or cold weather, all this required something that could additionally protect the limb and keep warm. Leather shoes like Indian moccasins can be considered one of the most archaic forms of human footwear and, at the same time, one of the most comfortable. Essentially, these are two pieces of leather sewn together and tied at the top with a cord.

Among the North American Indians, almost every tribe had its own “technology” for making moccasins. But despite the most varied designs, these shoes had one thing in common - they were made from very soft, well-crafted suede. It was the characteristic “material” that made Indian shoes stand out. Depending on the purpose, the soles could be either hard or soft. Also, moccasins could be high or low, very thin or insulated with fur for winter. The materials used, of course, were exclusively natural, and beads, porcupine quills, etc. were used as “accessories.” exotic

During the Wild West, Indian moccasins became very popular not only among the indigenous population of America, but also among whites. Trappers, hunters, farmers and people of many, many occupations enjoyed wearing Indian moccasins, which were sold in numerous American trading posts along with other Indian goods such as game, fish and furs.

Over time, classic moccasins have changed significantly depending on the requirements of the time, and sometimes simply because of fashion. However, quite a lot of modern shoes are based on these practical Indian shoes. At first these were only utilitarian hunting boots (the so-called hunter boots, with a “moccasin toe”, still produced today by many modern shoe manufacturers from traditional utilitarian American firms like to various high fashion houses outside the USA).

Yachting boat shoes, civilized “moneybag on vacation” boots, loafers, and even some rugged, reliable work boots like the Red Wing or Torogood, although very different from each other, in their essence also refer us to the idea of ​​​​Indian moccasins.

Nowadays, when in search of “real things” and “that same quality”, manufacturers with enviable consistency turn to the “historical heritage” so often that sometimes the names of companies already begin to ripple in the eyes. Everybody's talking about the real ones" American traditions"(even if it is a brand new company), traditional technologies and time-tested models from "grandfather's chest". There are now so many such manufacturing companies that the buyer often falls into a stupor and is often guided when choosing the necessary product not by objective criteria, but beautiful marketing legends, which, to be honest, sometimes have a fair amount of slyness at their core.

However, among such a huge selection there are real pearls and indisputable authorities that are the standard of quality. These companies themselves make very original (although most often quite expensive) products and do not imitate anyone; on the contrary, smaller manufacturers imitate them, trying to sell their product, which in some way imitates the product produced by the “pillars of the genre.” I don’t want to say that such an idea is a complete failure, there are some pretty good examples, but we’re not talking about them now. I will try to give a fairly general idea of ​​the products of the American company Yuketen and talk about personal experience purchasing products from this company in a foreign online store.

Now it is no secret to anyone that the most ardent admirers of traditional American clothing and collectors of vintage 40-50s are the Japanese. It is Japanese brands that interested buyers go to when it comes to traditional American jeans made according to all canons, replicas of American military pilots' jackets, or sports knitwear based on those times.

It was the Japanese Yuki Matsuda who became the founder of the Yuketen company. Note that this is an American company. Yuki founded the production back in 1989.

The goal was to produce modern casual shoes, but with a nod to traditional American shoes based on Indian moccasins. Primary attention was paid to the meticulous selection of materials and the most careful dressing of the leather. For Yuketen with their antediluvian equipment and painstaking manual labor Small editions in each collection are quite typical. However, if the buyer did not have time to buy something this season, with a high degree of probability he will be able to buy the same model (possibly in a slightly different color scheme), since from collection to collection Yuketen maintains a completely traditional model range that is not subject to any significant changes from year to year.

In general, it should be noted that Yuketen products are not “historical reconstructions” of old vintage samples, as is often customary now. Their models are absolutely comfortable modern shoes, which are more suitable for traveling through the “urban jungle” than for walking in the forest. The old Indian designs provide only inspiration and some similarity in external forms and some details. The founder himself says that he just does modern shoes for modern people, he simply does it creatively and with soul.

The real spirit of an ancient workshop reigns in the production of this company. Shoes are made by real master shoemakers; many operations are performed entirely by hand.

For example, the edge of a moc toe is stitched only by hand. If desired, of course, this operation can be “entrusted” to a machine, but here they believe that shoes sewn by human hands “have their own soul” and each pair made by a master shoemaker will be absolutely unique. Moreover, most of all Yuketen products are made by one craftsman, that is, if you, for example, hold a pair of suede moccasins in your hands, then they are made inside and out by one master, another pair from the same batch may have already been made by another master. Often a slight unevenness of stitches is visible on products, but this is by no means a defect, these are just features self made(without any posturing and advertising hypocrisy).

Currently, Yuketen began to produce not only shoes, but also some leather accessories, such as waist belts. The approach to production is still the same: careful selection of materials, traditional classic design and the famous Japanese obsession with the quality of the final product.

My acquaintance with shoes of this brand took place during a sale in the British store Superdenim.co.uk

The store itself is a rather cozy space, both online and apparently offline, with a dozen or two typical brands, including Yuketen shoes. The basis of the store’s assortment is made up of fairly venerable brands that are well known to the buyer who is looking for comfort, maximum quality, and, perhaps, minimal recognition of all this goodness on the street. That is, with the assortment everything is quite typical. A strong set of Japanese, American and European manufacturers. You can safely dress a person in this store from head to toe.

Prices... Prices are quite high. But here it’s not so much about the store, but about the pricing policy of the brands presented. However, every cloud has a silver lining; during sales, the store quite generously reduces prices (sales are up to 50% on some brands). Plus, from time to time Superdenim runs promotions with free shipping or sending promotional codes for additional discounts (usually 10-15% no more). The store deducts VAT automatically; there is no need to bother support for this. Delivery to this moment The store has express DHL (unfortunately they refused Fedex for some reason), and quite affordable delivery by the UK state post Royal Mail. I used this delivery method, and I recommend that all other buyers use regular mail, it is objectively cheaper and there are no problems like with DHL (DHL does not work with individuals in many regions and has additional restrictions).

The store itself is quite convenient, customer support responds in about a day or two, but always answers thoroughly and to the point. If you need to take measurements of any item or consult whether the size will fit or not, the store here gives very good advice. Tracking is also issued upon personal contact by letter to support. So the store is worthy, I recommend taking note.

I bought the Yuketen Blutcher model. These are laconic sand-colored moccasins. I decided to wear them in the summer. In principle, they are quite suitable for wearing in dry autumn or spring day. However, in this case it is better to choose a darker color (there are many color options available). For example, this is a color that will go very well with jeans.

My parcel was received about two weeks after it was sent by the store (the order took three days to arrive). I think this is normal for regular mail. Everything was packed in a regular Royal Mail plastic bag.

Inside is a small cardboard box with a logo. And a rather simple fabric bag for storing shoes with a beautiful leather tag on which the brand logo is embossed and it is proudly written that this product was made by leather craftsmen in the USA.

In general, moccasins make an impression literally as soon as you take them out of the box. The suede is quite thick, but amazingly soft. This may seem funny, but the thing is really interesting to touch, look at, and you absolutely don’t want to let go of it. That is, if we compare these moccasins, for example, with some popular high-quality mass brand (let them be topsiders from Sperry), we will see that they have thinner and somewhat rougher leather. At the same time, I can in no way say that Sperry is made poorly or from low-quality material. You can just see the difference in the approach to production. In one case, this is production in huge quantities with possible savings while maintaining quality to an acceptable level, on the other hand, these are small editions and manual production. By the way, the “hands” are really noticeable, just look closely at the moccasins.

The sole is stitched at the bottom, much like a boat shoe (this is typical for this type of shoe). It does not add any weight to the overall weight of the moccasins. In terms of weight, these are quite comfortable summer shoes.

The color is good for summer (Orion Khaki color). It will go well with chinos and similar summer clothes. Theoretically, you can wear it with jeans, but there is a nuance here. If these are jeans made from raw denim, then they will somehow “color” the shoes a little. But such soft light suede is just the most “favorite” option for blue cowboy pants. In general, I will briefly say that wiping off blue stains on light suede is not an easy job. So, to wear with jeans, it is better to take a different color, for example the one shown above for autumn. Yuketen usually has quite big choice colors for each model.

Another nice moment. Typically, leather laces on such shoes cause quite a lot of inconvenience. Namely, they tend to come untied at the most inopportune moments. I suffered for a very long time with Sperry, to the point that I just wanted to sew or glue these laces to fix the knot :) In the case of Yuketen, for some reason I didn’t have such problems. It seems like both are leather, but the fact remains that these laces did not unravel spontaneously during my “test wear.”

Their heel is absolutely soft. So you can wear it barefoot and not be afraid of getting calluses the first time you wear it. And in general, these are shoes that you definitely won’t have to wear in and “soften” the leather. I repeat, although the skin is quite thick, it is VERY soft.

The same leather ergonomic insole is laid inside. When worn barefoot, it is quite comfortable and will add comfort when wearing, your feet will thank you)). “Yuketen made by leather artisans in USA” is also embossed on the insole.

As for size, there are several nuances. This shoe is not a sneaker size. For example I wear Adidas and some Nike and New Balance in size 9.5US. For this shoe I took 9US and was absolutely right. The leg fit tightly, but without excessive pressure. In general, “moccasin-type” shoes should initially fit very tightly on the foot and slightly take its shape. In any case, soft suede will stretch a little. As for the completeness, the designation E was written on the box, which still means “wide”. In fact, the fullness is more like that of an average leg, that is, according to my feelings, it is closer to fullness D. But I repeat, these are only personal impressions, everyone’s feet are different and the sensations from shoes can also be different.