Clothing design methods. Technical design and modeling Modern clothing design and modeling

By designing clothing we mean creating a drawing-development of the surface of the human body with given allowances for freedom and drawing model lines. The purpose of industrial design is to develop a flat drawing or development of a product. The assembled flat cut parts create a voluminous shell of the finished product.

When developing a design, it is necessary to take into account the aesthetic parameters of clothing and at the same time comply with the technical requirements of individual or mass tailoring.

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A design is a drawing that clearly demonstrates the location of parts, silhouette, cut, model lines of a sewing or knitwear. The quality of finished clothing depends on the accuracy of the measurements taken or the standards taken as a basis, on the quality of the calculations and on the chosen design methodology.

The basic drawing contains model lines, displaying the cutting features and details that are characteristic of a particular model. A correctly designed and simulated design of a garment must have certain characteristics.

1. Comply with the designer’s idea in shape, proportions and details.
2. Provide wearing comfort due to the right choice increases and taking into account the properties of the fabric.
3. The technological subtleties of cutting and sewing assembly must be taken into account.
4. Ensure balance and separation of parts.
5. Have the possibility of subsequent repetition in patterns to create new similar models.

The implementation of these requirements is possible with the correct reading of the technical drawing, accurately taken measurements and taking into account the specific characteristics of the selected fabric.

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To create a design, you need to carefully study the drawing, analyze the proportions and details. Then measurements are taken from the figure or standard parameters are taken, including the length of the product.

Scheme of construction

• Building the foundation.
• Designation of baselines.
• Drawing model features of a specific model.

For practical application in the modern domestic and world school of cutting, two fundamental systems are used:

• fake;
• calculation and graphic.

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Each cutting technique has features and characteristics. Some clothing design systems and methods do not take into account the deformation properties of materials and the deployment accuracy class. Others require high-tech equipment. When creating clothing drawings, international and domestic schools use methods that work with development patterns. In all methods, a flat drawing is constructed that describes a three-dimensional three-dimensional human figure. Then it is finalized using mock-ups and fittings.

History of design methods

Dummy methods

Historically, the first method of cutting clothes was a dummy method of pinning fabric onto a living figure. The principle is to pin fabric onto a static torso or mannequin, indicating a change in planes and creating constructive and modeling lines. Then the contours and selected volumes are transferred to paper. The cut material is assembled into a product, followed by fitting to clarify the lines on a static figure or mannequin.

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This method is also called the mock-up method (or the pinning method), as it is used to make mock-ups of the first samples of the product using pins.

The dummy method is used in modern design for modeling:

• unique items of clothing level “ haute couture”;
• complex cut products with draperies and complex shaped details;
• models for non-standard figures;
• models of cut and outer knitwear;
• corsetry;
• historical costume.

The advantage of the prototyping method is the ability to take into account the features of the figure and specifications fabrics – drapability and plasticity. It makes it possible to see the shape and proportions of the product before it is assembled without preliminary calculations. At the same time, the tattooing method requires special knowledge - principles visual perception, design fundamentals and features of a specific technique.

Calculation and graphic methods

Calculation and graphic methods for constructing clothing designs arose at the beginning of the 19th century. They were created by tailors who transferred the experience of hand-cutting and working with a living figure into simple formulas. Calculation methods began to be used in individual tailoring, then found their practical application in mass production during the industrialization of the 20th century. Various countries and the masters had their own methods based on specific experience.

• Drittel system

Already in 1800, the British cutter Michel created his own “Drittel” cutting principle. He based it on the measurement of chest circumference. The cutter divided half the chest circumference into three parts, constructing a rectangle in each, which was then unfolded into the piece. His method was quite progressive and made it possible to repeat similar objects of different sizes.

On the basis of the Drittel grid, a cellular system for creating a drawing was then created, which later made it possible to systematize European techniques.

• French system

After the introduction of the metric system in Europe, tailors began using measuring tape as it is known today. At the same time, a method for constructing parts based on horizontal measurements was created in France. Even then, a drawing gradation based on one basic size was developed. At the same time, the French system did not take into account the features of a non-standard figure and height.

• German “Muller & Sohn”

G.A. Muller created in 1840 new system cutting out parts. His technique for the first time took into account the fact that a figure is a complex three-dimensional figure. To take measurements, Muller used the principle of trigonometry. When constructing the structure, arc notches were made with a compass on three sides of the triangles.

The Muller & Sohn design school successfully exists today and is used all over the world, including Russia.

• Design methodology of TsNIISHP EMKO SEV

With the advent of industrialization and the need to provide for the population through mass production, a systematization of schools and principles of construction arose. Individual measurements were replaced by standard ones and calculations of correlated characteristics from the main measurements of the figure.

Gradually, a new coordinate proportional-calculation system emerged, which took into account standard measurements and calculated proportions. The authors of various methods continued to accept different body configurations as the norm.

In the USSR, in 1934, the Korotkov design system was created, which was intended for the mass production of a clothing range. This system was periodically supplemented taking into account updated and supplemented population measurements, which gave a clearer relationship between the dimensional characteristics of various typologies of figures.

As a result of many years of systematization of knowledge, in 1956 the Central Research Institute of the Garment Industry developed a standard domestic design method. Friendly CMEA member countries helped and participated in measuring the population and improving the system. As a result of massive research, the classic cutting and modeling technique of the TsNIISHP EMKO SEV was implemented.

The research institute continued to work to improve a unified methodology for all types of clothing. The new recommendations took into account certain standards in measurements, their dependence and allowances for freedom of movement and model assumptions. Official documents were developed that recommended increases and allowances depending on the range of clothing, the properties of materials, the technologies and equipment introduced.

However, changes in fashion trends and manufacturing technologies occurred faster than government agencies issued documents for the production of drawings, modeling and additions.

Engineering methods

Engineering methods are based on solving the problem of differential geometry about covering the surface, taking into account the ability of the material to change the angle between the perpendicular threads of the weft and warp.

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Triangulation method

All engineering systems for creating structures are based on the principle of developing the surface of a three-dimensional figure and constructing a flat drawing. The triangulation method consists of dividing the surface into large triangles. The method requires mandatory design verification on primary samples.

Cutting plane method

The method was created in the USSR in 1954 and is based on obtaining a development using the principles of descriptive geometry. The plane of a figure is conventionally equated to a geometric surface that unfolds into a plane.

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Geodetic line method

The principle consists of drawing lines on the surface of a volumetric figure and modeling planar developments of parts. Currently, the method is used in scanning three-dimensional objects.

Method for calculating part developments based on samples

It is based on the so-called “Chebyshev networks” on a volumetric surface along orthogonal geodetic axes. The warp and weft threads of some mesh material are attached to them. The resulting Chebyshev network is laid in rectangular coordinate axes to obtain a flat surface development.

Modern practically applied techniques

TsOTSHL

In practical work, predominantly domestic techniques have been used to construct basic drawings and model the designs of garments in the USSR and Russia in recent decades.

• EMKO TsNIISHP, created for mass sewing production.
• Capacity for individual garments. It was developed at the Central Experimental Technological Sewing Laboratory based on the TsNIISHP system.

These calculation and graphic methods are characterized by simplified formulas for calculating the basic drawing and a small number of figure measurements. It was analyzed and observed that for female figure Characterized by straight posture, low shoulder slopes and fuller than standard arms, clothing produced with the help of TsNIISHP is suitable. For figures who have a straight posture, average shoulder position, fairly slender arms and moderately developed mammary glands - TsOTSHL.

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EMKO SEV

Also, in the mass production of garments in the CIS, the Unified Methodology is used, which was created in the 80s. The methodology summarized the measurements, cutting and modeling experience of the member countries of the former CMEA. The EMKO SEV method was the first to create a computer-aided clothing design system. The technique is used in Russia and Eastern Europe. It has been noticed that EMKO SEV works well for figures with relatively normal posture and somewhat low shoulder position.

"Muller & Sohn"

The advantages of the modern German school of cutting “Muller & Sohn” lie in the optimal small number of basic measurements, the possibility of use in both individual and mass production of clothing. The required measurements are calculated based on the basic measurements of the figure.

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From the point of view of specificity and better fit of the figure, “Muller & Sohn” works well when creating an assortment for thin European-type figures with high shoulders and undefined gluteal muscles.

VDMTI

To create drawings and designs for knitwear, the All-Union House of Models has developed its own VDMTI methodology, which is used by modern Russian specialists. It uses formulas that take into account the stretchability and minus increases characteristic of knitwear. The technique works for both underwear and outerwear of various weaves. In addition to the classical method, knitwear designers take into account the prototype method to clarify the fit and stretchability of new fabrics that have not been studied in the laboratory.

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In modern design, three-dimensional creation of development drawings is also used, which, obviously, is the future of clothing. This method is used exclusively with the use of computer programs and has a fairly high accuracy.

Stages of the three-dimensional method

• Development of a three-dimensional model after capturing three-dimensional anthropometric data of a figure through scanning.
• Development of flat drawings of parts by unfolding three-dimensional models.

Despite the existence of various schools of clothing design, in practical applications they are used as the latest computer programs, taking into account several systems, as well as traditional manual construction methods. The method of prototyping or tattooing is actively used to create unique models and in fitting sour cream samples to clarify the details of the cut.

Some specialists use mixed techniques:

• creating a drawing base based on classical calculation methods and finishing the modeling lines using the tattooing method;
• creating the basis for the design of a new model using prototyping and final modeling on a paper drawing.

There are a number of design techniques designed to create patterns, which take into account the seam reserves specified and determined by the technology, with the application of cutting lines and the creation of notches. A variety of techniques and systems are used that perform computer grading or reproduction of patterns by size and height based on one basic design.

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Thus, to obtain the ideal design of a product, you can use either one technique or combine several cutting and modeling options. The practical choice of design methodology depends on the preferences of a particular sewing school and the specialization of the department of sewing educational institutions.

Technical design – creation of various products for a specific purpose with the preparation of their designs (graphic images, technical and economic calculations, etc.), elaboration and comparison of possible various options designs and methods for manufacturing parts, making samples, studying their compliance with technical specifications and assessing quality.

Mental and practical activity here is aimed at making a thing; objects that carry an element of novelty and do not repeat or duplicate, unlike modeling, real objects.

Construction is part of design and will be a necessary element of the future creative project.

Construction is carried out according to a specific technical specification, which formulates specific conditions and quality requirements for the finished product when used for its intended purpose.

Typically, design begins with a visual representation of the product, drawing up its sketches, technical drawings, and drawings. Then the necessary materials are selected.

Next, a prototype of the product or the product itself is made, tested for strength and performance, modified taking into account shortcomings, and this is repeated many times, from one option to another, until the best product is created according to its purpose. During the design process, the developer (designer) faces many product options. Multiple options in design are called variability . Variability is inherent in both the design of the product and its appearance - design . (The word “design” translated from English means “conception, project, drawing.”) In the narrow sense, design is the task of ensuring that products have a beautiful appearance, a beautiful, rational finish and are easy to use.

A beautiful and fashionable product, thought out from the point of view of technical aesthetics (beauty), simplicity and safety of maintenance and operation, is in high demand and is more valuable. That’s why they work through many product options until they find the most suitable one. This is how various designs of tables, chairs, armchairs and other wood products appeared.

Finally, the product must be technologically advanced (easy) to manufacture, durable, reliable and economical.

A product manufactured with the least amount of time, labor, money and materials is considered technologically advanced.

Durable the product accepts a given load without destruction.

A reliable product that lasts without fail for a long time.

Economical They consider a product with low consumption of materials, which does not require additional costs when used.

Manufacturability, strength, reliability and other properties are the basic principles of design, manufacture and operation of products.

All the above listed necessary properties products make up its quality . A high-quality product is durable and reliable, convenient to use. When designing products, it is very important to choose for them necessary materials so that the product is durable and cheap, easy and quick to manufacture, and meets all the requirements placed on it.

Teaching students elements of technical design aims to provide students with initial knowledge about the content and organizational features of the development of devices (structures), methods and techniques for manufacturing simple products from common materials, the simplest mechanical processing of which is accessible to children of the specified age. In the process of teaching elementary technical design, children’s design abilities develop, general polytechnic skills and skills, the working culture of students are improved, and their interest in independently solving problems available to them in designing various products grows.

Work on technical design, as well as work on technical modeling, helps expand the polytechnic horizons of schoolchildren and develop their spatial representations, enriches their speech. Especially great importance has work for younger schoolchildren on technical design to prepare them for technology lessons in subsequent grades of school.

To learn how to create product designs, students must practice design and learn to solve design problems. The design process is more efficient technical modeling, if the teacher develops the required design together with the children, clearly showing all the main stages of searching for rational solutions, checking and comparing options, and selecting the best according to a number of quality indicators.

The design of products in labor lessons can be organized and carried out in different ways. The most common forms of organizing students’ work to create product designs that are new to them are the following:
Design under the dictation of the teacher. The teacher shows one by one the designs of the parts of the product, demonstrates the methods of their manufacture and connection, the order of finishing of the manufactured product, the methods of its adjustment, regulation, and use for its intended purpose. Students in in this case engage in reproductive activities, reproduce, copy the actions of the teacher. Such work contributes little to the development of independence, initiative, and creativity.
Design by analogy. After students, under the guidance of a teacher, have made an educational product, they are asked to independently construct a product that is similar in design or somewhat more complex, but similar in design. For example, students made a model of a cube from thin cardboard, and then they were given the task of making a model of a parallelepiped (making a development, gluing and pasting the models).
Design according to sample , which is shown in finished form. Students analyze the design of this sample, find out what parts it consists of, find out the order and techniques for performing individual operations in assembling and finishing the product.
Designing from oral, written or graphic product descriptions , including general technical requirements for the finished product (its purpose, conditions of use, dimensions, material proposed for manufacturing, general design requirements, etc.).
Design according to your own plans based on an independent examination of the task of designing a product, for the manufacture of which it is necessary to use materials known to students, the tools they have and previously learned working techniques.
Design on a free theme subject to the only condition: limiting the time of work (for example, one lesson).
Design in a team of two to four people with the distribution of responsibilities for creating a design and its implementation in material, testing in action.

Design - a general diagram of the structure and operation of a specific machine, structure, individual unit or their model, layout, giving an idea of ​​the shape, size and relative position of their parts, their interaction, methods and order of assembly and disassembly, the materials from which they are made, and etc. Knowledge of the design of the product, its purpose and methods, conditions of use are essential conditions for the success of its manufacture.

In technology lessons, students are familiarized with the designs of educational products using samples, graphic images, oral and written descriptions, or a combination of these types of instructions and explanations of the tasks of manufacturing the product. The study of product designs is carried out in inextricable connection with the study of technological operations, methods of manufacturing parts, their assembly and quality control, compliance with the given task.

Product design – shape, dimensions, connection methods and features of the interaction of individual parts and assemblies of the product. The design of the product determines its suitability for its intended purpose: ease of use of the product, its dimensions (dimensions), weight, reliability and durability in operation, appearance, and the ability to perform repairs. Depending on the purpose and conditions of use of the product, these indicators may vary within significant limits. For some products, it is important that they are as portable, portable and lightweight as possible. Other products must be especially durable, and materials of appropriate strength are selected for their manufacture. The designs of third products must provide for the ability to quickly replace individual parts in order to repair worn ones. To manufactured Christmas tree toys and there is no point in making the decorations require durability - they should be intricate in shape and elegant.

Layout designs should give an idea of appearance the corresponding object, and the design of technical models - about the principles of operation.

Children's construction sets – sets of standard parts intended for children to make various products: models of machines and mechanisms, instruments, apparatus, models of structures, household items, etc.

Using sets of this type, manipulating parts, carrying out work on assembling certain structures, students improve basic skills in assembling and disassembling, adjusting them, and using them in play activity. In addition, they gain a general understanding of the content and organization of assembly operations in production. At the same time, in an interesting and exciting way, in the process of vigorous activity, children practically become familiar with the purpose, design features and operation of the most common machines, mechanisms, engineering structures, and game attractions. All this contributes to the general and technical development of students, intensifying their interest in technology, production, labor activity of people.

— prefabricated models certain structures (for example, a car, a watch, a residential building);

— themed constructors , intended for assembling several models on one topic (for example, an aircraft designer, an automobile designer, an electrical designer, an architectural and construction designer);

— schematic general technical sets of parts , from which you can mount an endless number of models and models of machines, mechanisms, structures, household items, toys. The peculiarity of the last group of sets is that when designing and manufacturing various objects from parts of the sets, students have the opportunity to supplement their models with homemade parts from paper, cardboard, thin sheet metal, sheet plastic, and films. This creates additional incentives and opportunities to improve design skills, develop techniques for manufacturing missing parts, and the order of assembly of products.

Each set includes a printed album – a manual that provides information about the nomenclature, appearance, purpose and number of parts that make up the set, about the tools that are used during assembly work, provides examples of typical designs of elementary connections of parts and more or less complex units, as well as brief recommendations for methods of performing labor operations of installation and dismantling of products.

The main part of each album consists of drawings of models recommended for production. Objects offered for production are located on the pages of the album in order of gradual increase in the complexity of their implementation.

Modeling - type of design. As a result of the design and modeling process, finished objects are obtained - products, models, layouts. Any object can be modeled using the most various materials and technician. Making a model requires having some knowledge about the original object. Absolute similarity is not necessary, but the model must reflect (imitate) the essential features of the original object. There may be models.

Construction is the starting point for the planar method of creating clothing. Based on the measurements taken from the client during individual tailoring or using dimensions for a conventionally typical figure in mass production, a drawing of the basic design of the product is constructed.

When constructing a drawing, various design techniques can be used:

EMKO SEV,

• Muller and son

  English method, etc.

Differences in methods most often lie in formulas and calculations, as well as in variability of use. For example, one method gives a simplified construction (which is easier for a beginner in sewing to understand), but has big flaws when fitting the product to a figure, while another is more complex in calculations and will require more initial measurements of the figure, but will give a more accurate result when tried on.

The next stage in creating clothing, after design, is modeling - layering model features onto basic patterns.

For example:

tuck translations,

change in volumes,

adding constructive cuts (yoke lines, reliefs),

completion of additional elements (collars, cuffs, flounces, etc.).

Most often, this stage of creating a product is the most exciting and creative. It is important not only to correctly find the volumes and silhouette of the future product, but also to coordinate the proportions of elements, lines and shapes.

For a novice tailor, there may be difficulties with visualization here - often the lines in 3D form look completely different than on the plane of the table in 2D.

In production conditions, the designer works with pre-developed bases of various volumes. Often his task is only to model existing foundations. When working with individual clients in the atelier, the tailor also has basic standard sizes, which are then adjusted to the body type of each client, and only after that they are modeled according to the sketch of the future product.

When designing clothing for women, children and men, there are important differences in building the basics based on differences in body type.

Despite the fact that designing children's clothing is considered the simplest, professional designers begin their training with women's clothing.

Creating a masculine outerwear(suits and coats) is considered the height of tailoring - everything must be impeccable from design to tailoring.

Currently, there are many programs for creating basic drawings and modeling - the so-called CAD systems (automated clothing design systems). Designing on a computer is many times faster and easier than creating drawings “manually” - many operations occur automatically, there is no need for physical storage of basic principles, the modeling stage is interactive.

Unfortunately, even such smart programs require the designer to know classical construction techniques, understand the volume of the body, the beauty of lines and proportions.

In our schools in St. Petersburg and Moscow you can study the design and modeling of women's, children's and men's assortments. Details on the website:

• in St. Petersburg
• in Moscow

You can also take a course on designing and modeling women's clothing remotely in our online school

Is there an ideal method for designing clothes?

Let's figure it out.

Dear guests of my blog, thank you for your letters with questions. I am interested in communicating with you - alive and caring.

I received several questions about choosing a clothing design methodology:

“... Now there are a lot of them, and I would like to hear a professional’s answer - using what technique can you achieve an ideal fit, so that as few errors as possible can be corrected when trying on. The books are very difficult to master, I don’t know if it’s worth studying them further.”
“... I really like watching your creativity, you always inspire me to new feats! Thank you for this! I really want to learn how to build all my models in the same way, please advise which technique is better to use than what you use?”

In no way do I pretend to be a guru, but I will answer based on my experience.

Which design method should I choose?

1. Don't look for the perfect method. The search for a methodology without errors is doomed to failure, like the search for the philosopher's stone. With any method, designing a round onto a flat one will have errors.
2. Choose any method. All methods are based on the same principle: measure the figure and lay down the constructive segments on paper. They differ only in the sequence of applying these segments to the drawing, by and large. In other words, if you look at the drawing and understand that any pencil segment corresponds to a specific measurement on the body, then you will build easily and naturally.

Why beginners give up before learning design.

The fact is that the textbooks are written in heavy language. Beginners are put off by the textbook dry presentation, long formulas and terrible graphics in textbooks. You need to sit with a pencil in your hands and slowly, paragraph by paragraph, flipping back and forth from text to picture, losing the thread of presentation, etc.

I kindly ask you not to complicate the process of creating a pattern.

It's really simple, it's very simple. Much easier than straightening out integrals, and than it seems at the start of mastering the material.

Sit yourself down at the table and, slowly, with graph paper, a scale ruler and a calculator in your hands, go through the construction from start to finish. First, on a draft, and then move on to a sheet of Whatman paper and build it in full size.
Sew a sample, make adjustments, and they will certainly be made.
Build it 2-3 times, after which you will remember the technique, understand and love this particular one, yours. And you will tell beginners that it is your LinJacks or Mullers that give the best results.

The ideal technique is the one you are used to. Start with a simple “fit”, without any allowance for freedom of movement.

Why are there many errors in construction?

It is not the design system that is to blame, but your mistakes when taking measurements.
Start learning the technique with the rules for measuring your figure.

How to measure your figure correctly?

You need to understand that each measurement is a certain segment on the future drawing. And vice versa: each segment in the drawing is a specific physical measure of your figure.

In other words, You can’t mindlessly measure your figure, guided by the cold description in the methodology and without delving into the physical meaning.

The most basic measurements that novice designers make mistakes.

Failure #1:

1. These are measurements of back width (BW), chest width (SH) and armhole width (WW) - the so-called horizontal balance of the product.

It would seem that these are the simplest basic measurements, but beginners make mistakes in 90% of cases.

Take two pieces of rope or elastic. Tie them around your chest.
One is above the chest (measurement OG 1), and the second is exactly along the most convex points of the chest. The so-called exhaust gas measure 3 according to the EMKO SEV system.
The names of the measures may differ in different methods, but their essence is unchanged.
Now look at the ropes with a designer’s eye and mark on them with a marker where the armhole ends and the width of the back and chest begins. I’ll give you a hint: where the axillary folds are, there are the boundaries of the armhole.

Now measure:
1) (SH) back width
2) (W) chest width along the top rope (according to Og1)
3) SHK. chest width control (according to Og3). Even if this measurement is not in your method, take it anyway.
4) ШПр – armhole width. Even if there are no measurements according to the method, take them. A ruler held under your arm will help you.
Now add up the values: ShGkontrolnaya + ShS + Shpr + Shpr. You should get a full chest measurement of OG3. Is the formula correct? Great.
Didn't get along? Measure again and look for errors.

Failure #2

Measurements of the anterior-posterior balance of the product are taken incorrectly. There are even more errors here.
Front length to waist (DTS) and back length to waist (DTS1 and DTS 2).

What will help you get the measurements right: mentally draw the shoulder seam on the figure. Evaluate like a designer, not like a novice designer.
You can place a strip of paper under your bra strap and mark the base of the neck so as not to get lost.

Tie an elastic band around your waist and let it lie on the anatomical line, and not according to the principle “I love a low waist.” If you move and twist, the elastic band itself will find a position that is comfortable for it.
Measure DTS and RTA in the same way: from the bottom border of the elastic band or from the top and exactly to the point of the base of the neck, which you marked with a marker.

Believe me, it’s very easy to get lost, and even an error of half a centimeter will upset the balance.

front length to waist, chest height

How to correct incorrect product balance.

Creases in the side seams on the back or front are an incorrect balance. The simplest correction option and the most effective: - open the side seam and let the product lie as it asks. Connect and pin the side seams directly on the figure. Make sure that the half-skid lines of the shelf (middle of the front) are vertical to the floor and fit together well.
Sometimes creases on the front are caused by insufficient opening of the chest dart.
With a tattoo you can easily correct any defect in construction. Pin additional darts on the model where they “ask”, and then make corrections to the drawing and unmodel.
Sew samples while you feel insecure.

Failure #3.

Armhole depth. It’s easy to deepen it, but if it’s “plowed open,” it’s more difficult to fix. Try to take a control measurement not of the depth of the armhole, but of the length of the side - from the waist to the armpit, taking into account 1-1.5 cm for freedom of movement.

Why do you need to study other techniques?

Not at all to find the best school, but in order to “educate” the head. Almost all experienced designers, having studied several construction systems, settle on their “hodgepodge”. There is something interesting and rational in each of the techniques.

I like the distribution of waist darts in the Zlachevskaya school, taking into account personal anatomical curves, and not in an average way, as in other methods.

I really like Muller’s beautiful shoulder girdle. European elegant, this is what I take as the basis for construction in my practice.

I don’t like Muller’s wide shoulder line, so I take the ShP measurement not from the table, but from the anatomical one that I measured

If skirts, then Zlachevskaya, no options. Trousers - Müller, but other methods are also praised.

Po Lin-Jacques never built it, because for me, as in that poem, “but he didn’t touch the penguin, it immediately came out well.” I am quite satisfied with my method.
But I heard only positive reviews from Lin-Jacq practitioners.
What do you want to say according to old school methods.
Out of curiosity, I studied several notes from the series “that’s what they gave us in school 40 years ago.”

By and large, the wrapping base can be built using any system, but the real design begins when the model contains allowances for a loose fit (and you need to build immediately taking them into account!)

So, using old Soviet methods, I get...Soviet clothes.

It seems that the suit “fits”, the balance is in place, but one is tempted to “finish with a file” the chunky, uncomfortable clothes.

Using outdated methods, you get outdated patterns, but you want beautiful ones. The fact is that craftsmen with extensive experience design “by eye”; they see the beauty of the future item directly on the fabric, without even touching the scissors.

But if you choose a technique for yourself here and now, then I advise you not to take old Soviet textbooks, but to turn to modern schools. Fortunately, there is no shortage of them - for every taste and budget.
It is quite possible to go the route of ready-made patterns. But how much wider the possibilities are when you know how to build basic structures!

I believe that I have touched on a dangerous topic, in which many people have something to say. Well, I'm ready to listen to your opinion.

More articles on the topic

The process of making clothes is fascinating, and each of us can find a lot of interesting things in it for ourselves. To make wardrobe items, clothing design and modeling are used.

The process of creating clothes

First, the clothes are modeled, and the design of the clothes is the second stage in its creation. This process allows you to draw up a drawing of the future product and make patterns according to which cutting will take place. Patterns are templates for clothing parts that are made from cardboard, paper, film, wallpaper and other materials.

There are differences in the design of clothing for the mass market and custom tailoring. When mass tailoring, the following requirements are imposed: clothes must be made according to precise calculations, the patterns must be correct. Construction men's clothing assumes that the manufactured products will fit well on the body, will be comfortable to wear and will be easy to care for, and will fit well on the human figure.

Modeling

The basis for the production of high-quality garments is modeling. This is an art that requires special knowledge, and many strive to master it.

The design and modeling of clothing works directly with the person. It's no secret that with the help of a properly selected suit you can significantly change the perception of a person.

Modeling begins with preparation. At this stage, the fashion designer decides who will wear this model of clothing, what it is intended for, and what materials will be used to make it. Having decided on the answers to these questions, the artist creates a sketch.

There are certain requirements for all sketches. This is clarity and completeness, the complete embodiment of the artistic concept. Also, if the model will be produced under conditions, it makes sense to find out how cost-effective it will be to produce it. And after that, the design of clothes begins. This is the sequence of the creative process.

Clothing construction methods

The creative process of creating clothes has deep roots. It is known that clothing design has a long history, and various methods have been developed over the centuries. There are two large groups of clothing design methods: approximate and engineering.

Approximate methods can also be different. The oldest of them are considered to be dummy ones, when measurements are made on a human figure or using a mannequin.

It must be said that the design of clothing in the usual sense began to take shape only in the twentieth century; before that, precise measurements for fit on the figure simply did not exist. Clothes were created using folds and folds.

Clothing design methods began to develop in the early nineteenth century, when the London cutter Michel came up with the first "grid" for clothing drawings. He applied the principle of scale: the original drawing was divided into cells with the same side, and it could be increased or decreased at will. In 1840, the famous cutting system of G. A. Muller arose, who used the principle of spherical trigonometry to construct a drawing.

In 1959, the design and modeling of clothing was studied by the central experimental-technical sewing laboratory, which applied it. Its disadvantage is that the graphic constructions in it are cumbersome, the accuracy of constructing the base is relative, and it is difficult to choose allowances for a loose fit.

Modern design methods

IN last years Engineering methods are becoming increasingly widespread. Many believe that in the future all measurements will be carried out using a 3D mannequin. This method will include the method of developable surfaces, the method of secant surfaces, and the triangulation method.

Computer-aided manufacturing (CAD) is now widely used to design clothing. It is based on techniques that were once developed by Michael Müller, a famous German tailor. Nowadays the Lyubax cutting system is also used, which involves visually measuring the figure before creating a pattern.

Designing children's clothing

Children's clothing is designed on the same principle as clothing for adults, but it requires knowledge of the physical and psychological development of the child. Not only artists and fashion designers, but also pediatricians, educators and teachers take part in the development of the concept of children's clothing.

When modeling and designing children's clothing, the ratio is of great importance different baby. Therefore, all children for whom clothes are created are divided into five groups.

This nursery group(age up to 3 years), preschool group(up to six years old), a junior school group, which includes children from seven to eleven years old, a teenage group, which includes children from twelve to fifteen years old. There is also a youth group, which includes children from sixteen to eighteen years old.

There are a number of requirements for children's clothing. It should warm in the cold and cool in the heat, and protect from bad weather. Due to the fact that children wear out clothes quickly, it is recommended to sew them from inexpensive materials. Folk art is often used for creation; it is inexhaustible for master fashion designers.

Patterns as a unit of measurement

The main unit of measurement in modeling and design is the pattern. They come in the following types: original patterns, control and working patterns.

The basis for creating any costume is a basic pattern. An experienced specialist can identify the clothing manufacturer at first glance, taking into account the quality of the basic pattern. The patterns are created taking into account all the features of the human figure.

Nowadays, when creating patterns, specialists turn to modern technologies, especially computers. Using computers in pattern making has its advantages. So, this is an opportunity to accurately adapt the patterns to the characteristics of a particular opportunity to show the result of the work to the client at any stage. This type of pattern can be used much longer than paper ones; they do not wear out and cannot be replaced.

A pattern made electronically makes it possible to virtually lay out material on fabric, which can simplify the cutting process.

Modeling by Burda Moden

Various systems for modeling and designing clothing have not helped create clothing that is comfortable for the majority of the population. And then Burda Moden magazine came to the rescue.

The magazine has made a name for itself in the field of women's clothing design. He entered the fashion arena in the post-World War II period. At this time, not all women had the money to buy a new beautiful clothes, while everyone wanted to look stylish.

In 1950, Burda Moden magazine was published and immediately attracted attention. Now it remains popular, this is due to the fact that the magazine reflects modern tendencies in the world of fashion. Moreover, all models are adapted to real life, and you can immediately sew the model and use it.